Long mysterious to European explorers of the 16th and 17th centuries, the region known as Patagonia, forming the southernmost geography of South America, is shared by Argentina, about 90 percent, and Chile, the remaining 10 percent. The Argentine side is characterized by an immense series of steppes that gradually ascend in elevation, the landmass cut by several powerful rivers. Even today, Patagonia’s northern boundary remains rather ambiguous. One of those waterways is the Rio Negro, in the Upper Valley of which we find Aniello, the winery that produced today’s featured wine. It’s the Aniello 006 Riverside Estate Chardonnay 2017, designated Patagonia. The wine sees only neutral French oak and a tiny bit — 7 percent — malolactic fermentation. The result is a bright medium gold chardonnay that bursts with fresh, spicy allure and attractive scents and flavors of slightly roasted pineapple and grapefruit; notes of green apple, mango and quince linger on the palate, highlighted by touches of cloves and damp gravel in a texture that’s talc-like and almost dense, all these elements animated by crisp, brisk acidity and a burgeoning limestone quality. 13 percent alcohol. Pure pleasure that you could sell the hell out of in restaurant and bar by-the-glass programs. Now through 2020. Very Good+. About $17, representing Good Value.

Global Vineyard Imports, Berkeley, Calif. A sample for review.