Tue 1 Sep 2015
If someone were making a list of the 100 best winemakers in the world — no, I’m not going to attempt that feat, thank you very much — I hope that the name Larry Cherubino would be on the roster. Working in the Margaret River appellation of the Western Australia region, this “little cherub” produces impeccably well-made and balanced wines no matter the grape or style or vintage, consistently bringing out the character of the vine, the vineyard and the vintage year after year. Though he owns a range of labels that offer wines at various prices, today I’ll look at three cabernet sauvignon wines under his Cherubino label, which he reserves for the highest expression and prices of his endeavors. You’ll notice that this winemaker does not shy away from a cabernet character that most winemakers in California seem to abhor, and that’s the hint of black olive, bell pepper and cedar that seems inherent in the grape. Such elements lend the wines lovely and authentic complexity and detail. While drinkable now, especially with roasted or grilled red meat, these Cherubino wines can age for up to 10 years from the present. For collectors of the world’s great cabernet wines, these are well-worth searching for.
Samples for review.
The Cherubino Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Margaret River, offers an intense dark ruby color and penetrating aromas of black olive and bell pepper, spiced and macerated and then slightly roasted and caramelized black currants and raspberries; a few minutes in the glass bring in notes of graphite, a glint of celery seed, tinges of sandalwood, sage and lavender. There’s real depth and dimension in this dusty, lithic, rigorous red wine whose dense and squinchy tannins and bright acidity command attention and demand two or three years in the cellar. A gradual unfolding reveals a core of ripe black fruit flavors wrapped around lavender, bitter chocolate and granitic minerality. 13.5 percent alcohol. Try 2016 or ’17 through 2022 to ’25. Excellent. About $54.
The Cherubino Wilyabrup Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Margaret River, displays a vibrant dark ruby hue and then opens out with all the generosity that dusty graphite, roasted fennel, black licorice and intense and concentrated black fruit scents and flavors can deliver. This is the exotic outlier of this trio, sporting hints of stewed fruit, burning leaves, sassafras, sandalwood and cloves; the texture is sleek, supple and lithe, making for a muscular yet elegant black panther of a cabernet; there’s plenty of structure, especially from mid-palate back through the graphite-packed finish, but the wine is beautifully balanced and integrated even while it smolders in the glass like an ember. 13.8 percent alcohol. Now through 2020 to ’24. Excellent. About $54.
Looking at the longest potential time in the cellar, the Cherubino Cowarawup Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Margaret River, blooms with an intense dark ruby-purple color and blossoms into black olive and bell pepper, cedar and rosemary, ripe and spicy black currants and cherries, with hints of dusty graphite, Nekko wafer and violets. This rich, ripe, warm and spicy panoply of sensual delights doesn’t preclude a cabernet of growing rigor and austerity, at least on the finish; yes, the texture is dense and velvety, the flavors sweetly ripe and luscious, but the acid and mineral qualities burgeon relentlessly, providing animation and vibrancy as well as bastions of structural character. 13.8 percent alcohol. Try from 2016 or ’17 through 2024 to ’26. Excellent. About $54.