Tongue Dancer Wines is a project of longtime winemaker James MacPhail and Kerry MacPhail, listed on labels as “Knowledgeable One.” The MacPhails produce minuscule amounts of pinot noir from Sonoma Coast and sell them only by mailing list. I’m a huge fan of the Tonge Dancer pinot noirs, which seem to encompass all the aspects I adore about the grape, from elegance to boldness, from the ethereal to the lithe and muscular, usually presented in a dynamic and superbly poised fashion. Unfortunately, I have to enter a dissenting voice for the winery’s first chardonnay, a model I thought embodied all the worst elements of over-determined California chardonnay. The pinot noir reviewed in this post, however, is a real gem of nuance and complexity.

These wines were samples for review.

The Tongue Dancer Wines Bacigalupi Vineyard Chardonnay 2015, Russian River Valley, the winery’s first chardonnay, received all sorts of high scores from various sources, but I’ll say, as politely as possible, that I didn’t care for it one bit. I found it too rich, too spicy, over-oaked, with fruit character that tasted more like dessert cordials than wine, too toasty and altogether unbalanced. But that’s just me. 14.5 percent alcohol. 100 cases. Not recommended. About $50.

The color of the Tongue Dancer “Pinot de Ville” Pinot Noir 2015, Sonoma Coast, is dark ruby shading to an utterly transparent magenta rim; it’s a deeply scented and flavorful pinot noir that offers hints of black and red cherries and currants with touches of plums, sassafras and sandalwood, loam and beetroot; potent graphite minerality penetrates a supple and lithe texture animated by vivid acidity. This pinot noir deftly balances a feeling of warm spices and cool minerals, while a few moments in the glass unfurl high notes of lilac and lavender and low tones of tar and espresso.
14.5 percent alcohol. A truly eloquent pinot noir that delivers pleasure and intrigue. 125 cases. Excellent. About $65.