Need a red wine to drink with the short ribs or veal shanks you have braising atop the stove or in the oven? Truth is, there are hundreds if not thousands of candidates that could do the job. For today, however, I’ll nominate one particular wine made from a grape that deserves to be better known. Lagrein is grown in the Südtirol-Alto Adige region of northeastern Italy, where it is made into a bright, vibrant red wine whose intense berry fruit and moderate tannins render it ideal for drinking with hearty fare over, say, two to six years. The Alois Lageder Lagrein 2014, Südtirol-Alto Adige, from a 52-hectare estate — about 138 acres — operated on organic and biodynamic principles, sees no oak but aged 12 months in a combination of concrete vessels and stainless steel tanks; all the better for its freshness and immediate appeal. The color is opaque black-purple with a transparent magenta rim; both in nose and on palate, this wine features ripe, fleshy black currants and blueberries touched with notes of mint, graphite and truffles, displaying a robust, rustic and somewhat rooty nature; a few moments in the glass unfurl hints of loam, bittersweet chocolate and black tea. Vibrant acidity keeps you coming back for another sip, while a briery-brambly element adds grain to a lithe, supple texture. 12.5 percent alcohol. Nicely balanced and integrated for drinking through 2019 or 2020. I can smell those short ribs now, and I’m waiting for my invitation to dinner. Excellent. About $25.

Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, Calif. A sample for review.