Those who want to drink a wine that offers the aura of authority and authenticity need look no further than the riveting Domaine de la Voûte des Crozes Côte-de-Brouilly 2015, a Cru Beaujolais made by Nicole Chanrion from her 8.75-acre sustainably-farmed vineyard. When I write “made by,” I mean that Chanrion does everything herself, from plowing to pruning and other vineyard activities to carefully fashioning the wine in the chai. “Fashioning” is probably too strict a term to refer to Chanrion’s method; basically, she nurtures the wine and allows the gamay grapes and the vineyard to speak for themselves. The 50-year-old vines lie over blue schist stone and volcanic rock, and if ever a wine reflected the character of its geology, this one is it. Chanrion produces only 2,500 cases annually, divided between this one and a sparkling gamay. The domaine was founded in 1861. The grapes for the Domaine de la Voûte des Crozes Côte-de-Brouilly 2015 fermented by means of native yeasts, and the wine aged nine months in large oak foudres. The color is an intense purple-violet; evocative aromas of blackberries and currants, smoke, iodine and graphite are twined with hints of leather and bacon fat, with a back-note of mulberry. The wine is silky smooth and supple on the palate, energized by bright acidity that animates ripe, fervent and slightly exotic compote of black fruit permeated by dusty tannins and a touch of loam and ash. 13.5 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2022 to ’25. A Côte-de-Brouilly of gratifying personality and character. Excellent. Prices around the country range from about $19 to $22, representing Extraordinary Value.

Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants, Berkeley, Calif. A sample for review. Label image from cellartracker.com.