To honor the Year of the Rooster, to be celebrated on January 28 at Chinese New Year’s, Joy Sterling of Iron Horse Vineyard crafted a iron horsespecial, limited production sparkling wine that bears a vivid red and gold label you can’t miss. The Iron Horse Chinese CuvĂ©e 2012, Green Valley of Russian River Valley — that’s the AVA — is a blend of 76 percent pinot noir and 24 percent chardonnay, aged en tirage (on the lees in the bottle) for four years. The color is pale straw-gold, energized by a swirling tempest of tiny glinting bubbles; I mean, it’s hypnotic. Aromas of spiced pears, pound cake and baked apples unfurl to notes of lemon balm and lemongrass, heather and damp hay and a hint of something uniquely tropical, star-fruit, perhaps, or guava, just a bell-tone. These elements — all nuances; nothing obvious — in turn are layered over limestone and shale minerality of the profoundest order, so on the palate this sparkling wine is lithe, chiseled and honed, quite dry of course, and with a finish notable for elegance and austerity, all twined with utmost fine-boned delicacy. 13.5 percent alcohol. One of my favorite sparkling wines of the past two months of tasting brigades of bottles. Drink now through 2020 to ’22. Production was 300 cases. Excellent. About $65.

A sample for review.