canard
The Champagne house of Canard-Duchêne was founded in 1868 by Victor Canard and Léonie Duchêne, and thus does not mean “duck of oak” as some people apparently believe. Since 2003, it has been owned by the Thienot Group, which includes the house of Joseph Perrier. The Champagne Canard-Duchêne Authentic Brut nv is a blend of 45% pinot noir, 35% pinot meunier and 20% chardonnay, with 20 percent reserve wines, that is, from older vintages, in the mix. The color is pale but bright gold; a persistent stream of tiny bubbles surges upward. This is all smoke and steel, pear and quince, with notes of grapefruit and roasted lemon, lightly toasted brioche and lemongrass. On the palate, this Champagne is dry, crisp and lively, energetic and engaging, displaying a pleasing balance of moderately lush texture and chiming acidity against a background of a scintillating limestone-flint element and seashell salinity; hints of heather and hay and slightly honeyed peach fill in the edges. 12 percent alcohol. No tremendous depth and profundity but plenty of charm, elegance and finely-wrought pleasure. A favorite in our house. Excellent. About $40 but seen online as low as $30.

Imported by Thienot USA, San Rafael, Calif. A sample for review.