Fri 14 Oct 2016
Here’s another selection for International Merlot Month. The Ca’ Momi Winery is owned by the same people who own the Ca’ Momi restaurants in Napa Valley, so perhaps it’s fitting that this wine — the Ca’ Momi Merlot 2014, Napa Valley — is as wildly exuberant as Italian cuisine can be. I would be interested in knowing what the oak regimen for this wine was, but rarely have I visited a winery website so disinclined to reveal actual information about the winemaking process, even in its trade pages. Be that as it may, the wine displays a very dark ruby hue, even unto an opaque, almost black center. It’s a deep, dynamic merlot that offers scents and flavors of spice-infused black currants, cherries and plums — there’s a touch of fruitcake — with top-notes of blueberry and pomegranate. Dusty graphite comes into play and a strain of damp loam that opens to granitic tannins harboring vibrant acidity for liveliness on the palate. After 30 minutes or so, the black fruit unfurls elements of cedar and tobacco, dried rosemary and thyme, and the flavors feel somewhat macerated and roasted; the structure builds through a feral, iodine-and-mint and mineral-packed finish. 13.5 percent alcohol. Drink this through 2019 to ’21 with steaks and chops, hearty pizza and pasta dishes or dry, mature cheeses. Excellent. About $20.
A sample for review.