Occasionally, a wine comes along that makes me really excited because of its sense of integrity and authenticity, but also makes me happy just to be tasting it — or, frankly, drinking it. morgan_pinot_noir_twelve_clones_2014_frontSuch a one is the Morgan Winery Twelve Clones Pinot Noir 2014, from Monterey County’s Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, a very cool area notable for its affinity for pinot noir and chardonnay vines. Just over half the grapes for this wine derive from Morgan’s estate Double L Vineyard. The wine aged eight months in French oak, 37 percent new barrels. The color is a beautiful transparent medium ruby hue; it’s a dark, flinty and feral pinot noir, offering notes of ripe and spicy black and red cherries imbued with hints of black tea and sassafras, lavender and pomegranate and, as foundation, some loamy, rooty concoction. The wine builds heft and presence in the glass, with dusty, briery tannins bolstering a sleek and satiny texture, all cut by elemental acidity that plows a furrow on the palate through to a fruit, spice and mineral packed finish. The connection with the earth feels fundamental and intimate. The alcohol content is an eminently sensible 13.8 percent. Now through 2022 to ’24. Excellent. About $34.

A sample for review.