When Dick and Nancy Ponzi founded Ponzi Vineyards in 1970, they were pioneers in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Wines_Images1along with such legendary figures as Dick Erath and David Lett. Today, with their daughter Luisa Ponzi as winemaker and daughter Maria as president, the winery continues to grow and thrive as one of the state’s venerable institutions. Our Wine of the Day is the Ponzi Pinot Noir 2013, Willamette Valley, the grapes for which derive from a number of estate vineyards. The wine aged 11 months in French oak, 35 percent new barrels, and was gravity-bottled unfined and unfiltered. The color is a beguiling transparent medium ruby; first, the wine expresses its earthiness in a welter of dust, loam and graphite that opens to notes of ripe black and red currants and cherries inflected with hints of sassafras and cloves, pomegranate and cranberry. Boy, this is a supple, lithe and satiny pinot noir that flows like money across the palate, but that’s not all the tale; its seductive texture is buoyed by swingeing acidity and a scintillating mineral element that builds layers of graphite and flint until the wine feels as if it had been chiseled from obsidian, and I mean that in the most positive manner. Even as it feels more deeply rooted in the earth through the finish, the wine somehow increases the heady floral and dried spice aura of its bouquet. 13.2 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2020 to ’23 with roasted chicken or game birds. Excellent. About $40.

A sample for review.