Wed 9 Dec 2015
Let’s utter a cheer or two for wines that require no contemplation or furrowed brows, just a requirement for pleasure and enjoyment. Such a one is the Vignes de Bila-Haut Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2014, from an area so deep into southwest France that if you stumble over a rock, you’ll fall into Spain. The steep, stony property, a refuge for the Knights Templar in the Middle Ages, was acquired in 1999 by Michel Chapoutier, who needs no introduction to fans of profound wines from the Rhone Valley, pretty far east along the great curve of the Mediterranean coastline. The Bila-Haut Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2014 is dominated by the syrah grape, with dollops of grenache and carignan; the wine has no oak contact, fermenting and aging in concrete vats. The color is a brilliant medium ruby with a trace of violet; the bouquet is bright and engaging, offering a florid display of black and red currants and plums with notes of ripe blackberry, briers and brambles, dried thyme and sage. Moderate tannins provide support for voluptuously ripe and spicy black and red fruit flavors, held in check by keen acidity and an essential graphite-tinged mineral element. The emphasis is on deliciousness and savor. 14 percent alcohol. We happily drank this bottle with a pizza made at home, with toppings of roasted red peppers, tomatoes, hickory-smoked bacon, black olives and Italian parsley. Very Good+. About $15, representing Fine Value.
An R. Shack Selection for HB Wine Merchants, New York. A sample for review.