The small-minded might say that Bonny Doon’s Clos de Gilroy is the least of the winery’s products, but let’s assert, instead, that Clos de Gilroy 2012, Central Coast, should not be regarded as “least” or “lesser” — that is, compared to some of Randall Grahm’s more expensive and expressive syrahs and Rhone-style blends — but as a wine that definitely fills a purpose, is a wine that could even boast of a certain raison d’être, and that is to be pleasing, approachable, delicious and drinkable. So there. Clos de Gilroy 2012 is a blend of 84 percent biodynamically-farmed grenache grapes, 11.5 percent syrah and 4.5 percent mourvèdre. The wine has no contact with oak barrels and is all the better for it. The color is medium ruby with a mulberry tinge; aromas of black currants and cherries are wreathed with hints of blueberries and plums and touched with cloves, potpourri and a bit of clean mossy earth and leather. Black and blue fruit flavors taste ripe and spicy, a trifle macerated and fleshy, and are bolstered by vibrant acidity and a nod toward granitic minerality. The finish is sleek and supple and delicately imbued with lavender and graphite. 14.4 percent alcohol. We tasted this for a couple of days — it’s closed with a screw-cap — with a variety of lunch and dinner dishes. Production was 1,444 cases. Drink through 2015. Very Good+. About $18.

A sample for review.