Lison Classico is a D.O.C.G. — Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita — in Italy’s Veneto region, on the plains formed by the Piave river as it flows southeast from the Alps to empty into the Adriatic north of Venice. Lison is the grape formerly known as tocai. Vine-growing and wine-making in the region go back to ancient times, though the estate in question today, Tenuta Polvaro, is relatively young on those terms, having been founded in 1681. Its recent manifestation is under the Candoni De Zan family, which has owned Tenuta Polvaro for 150 years. A true family operation, the winery is run by Armando De Zan, his wife Elviana Candoni, and their daughters Barbara and Caterina.

The Tenuta Polvara Lison Classico 2011 is made 100 percent from the former tocai grape. The wine was fermented 90 percent in stainless steel tanks and 10 percent in new French oak barrels. One hears many complaints — and I have been one of the complainers — that inexpensive Italian white wines have no character, but I’m here to tell you to clear the fog from your little pointy head and cool your fevered brow, because this wine is moderately priced and terrific. The color is very pale gold; the beguiling bouquet features a delicate weaving of roasted lemon and spiced pear with notes of peach, almond blossom, dried thyme and lime peel. The sort of texture you want in a wine like this combines an airy, almost cloud-like effect with sleek and pert acidity, so you’re constantly feeling the slight tension and sense of balance between those qualities; the Tenuta Polvara Lison Classico 2011 delivers on that basis and also in the area of juicy lemon and peach flavors tempered by a burgeoning element of limestone and flint minerality and hints of ginger, cloves and quince. The limestone-packed finish is spare, saline and savory. 13 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2014. Excellent. Look for prices between $15 and $17.

Imported by Arel Group Wine & Spirits Inc., Atlanta, Georgia. A sample for review.