Mon 17 Dec 2012
Here’s a twofer, a white and a red from Ventisquero, a winery in Chile that gives new meaning to the term “middle of nowhere.” I visited this remote and beautiful place in the Apalta region of the Colchagua Valley with a group of writers in October 2010, and we finally had to abandon our bus and walk, the road was that narrow and the dinky bridges so precarious. Head winemaker is Felipe Tosso; responsible for pinot noir and white wines is Alejandro Galay, while Sergio Hormazábal oversees other red wines and the Queulat label. The winery is Certified Sustainable for all its vineyards and Certified Carbon Neutral.
First is the Ventisquero Queulat Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2010, made from 100 percent sauvignon blanc grapes grown at the winery’s vineyard in the Casablanca Valley. The color is pale straw-gold. This is a grippingly clean and fresh sauvignon blanc that feels imbued by the bracing sea breezes that cool Casablanca; aromas of gooseberry and lemongrass, thyme and tarragon are wreathed with notes of apple, lime peel and damp limestone. Pert, tart and sassy, Queulat Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2010 offers loads of personality but never comes across as blatant or flamboyant as many examples from New Zealand do (I mean, let’s pick on New Zealand!); rather, this wine delivers its message with subtlety, balance and elegance, as well as a little flair. The texture is a pleasing combination of soft ripeness and crisp vivacity, while flavors of lightly spiced and grassy roasted lemon and pear segue to a finish loaded with flint and a touch of grapefruit bitterness. 13 percent alcohol. Excellent. About $18, representing Terrific Value.
Ventisquero’s Grey label focuses on single-vineyard wines, which for the Grey Carménère 2010 is the Trinidad Vineyard in Maipo Valley. The wine aged 18 months in French oak, only 33 percent new barrels, a process that lent the wine depth, structure and suppleness without muddying the character we look for in 100 percent carménère: notes of coffee and tobacco, black olive and bell pepper, twined with black currants and plums, graphite and black tea and a hint of fruitcake, with its implications of dried fruit and spices. This layered effect continues in the mouth, where flavors of fresh and dried black and blue fruit are permeated by vibrant acidity, fairly dense and chewy yet smooth, slightly velvety tannins and a penetrating earthy, granitic mineral quality that persists through the finish. The wine is packed with presence and pleasing heft; you take it in and think, “Oh yeah, this is a real mouthful of wine!” 14 percent alcohol. Now through 2016 to ’18, with roasted or braised red meat. Excellent. About $24.
The Queulat is imported by Austral Wines, Atlanta, Ga.; Grey is imported by The San Francisco Wine Exchange, San Francisco, Ca. These wines were samples for review.