Michael McCay started as many other winemakers in California did; he grew grapes and sold them to other people. Only since 2007 has he produced wine from his Lodi grapes, concentrating on zinfandels that do not carry the big stick of over-ripe jammy fruit and high alcohol, and by high I mean the 15 percent and more that we often see. McCay is not shy with French oak, but his grapes and the wines he makes from them possess the character to soak up and absorb that oak — I mean 26 to 28 months — and come out blossomy fresh and spicy and supple as velvet. These are limited edition wines, so mark them Worth a Search.

Samples for review.
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The McCay Cellars Paisley Red Wine 2009, Lodi, is a blend of zinfandel and petite sirah that aged 28 months in French oak, 24 percent new barrels, 37 percent second and third fill (that is, used for the second and third times) and the rest neutral. The wine is deep and dark, rich and spicy and bursting with notes of red and black cherries, red and black currants, cloves and bittersweet chocolate, black olives and caramelized fennel; it’s a terrific bouquet, invigorating and seductive. That promise is not quite fulfilled in the mouth, not that the wine is not attractive and drinkable — it was completely appropriate for last week’s Pizza and Movie Night — but that in terms of the layering of flavors and structure it feels several shades of complexity less exciting than the aromas. Still, it’s a marvel that winemaker Michael McCay can pull off the feat of aging a wine in oak for two years and four months and having it come out with the wood influence almost subliminal. 14.8 percent alcohol. 123 cases. Very Good+. About $28.
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The point of the McCay Truluck’s Zinfandel 2009, Lodi, it seems to me, is to prove that a zinfandel does not need to be highly extracted or crushing with alcohol; the color here is not motor oil opaque but a lovely medium ruby hue, nor does the wine exhibit super-ripe or jammy fruit but fresh, clean and bright subtly spiced and macerated notes of black currants. blueberries and plums with a high tone of wild cherry, this panoply opening to touches of mulberry, lavender and potpourri; a few minutes in the glass bring in elements of fig paste, fruit cake, black olives and thyme. Plenty of dense dusty tannins, yes, but finely milled and velvety over a burgeoning layer of graphite-like minerality and woody spice — sandalwood, allspice — and juicy black and blue fruit flavors that display an intriguing fillip of pomegranate. The oak regimen was 26 months French barrels, 21 percent new, 33 percent second and third year, the rest neutral. Again, 26 months seems like a long time in oak, but the wine came from that process with balance, poise and a sort of dense suppleness. 14.6 percent alcohol. Now through 2014 to ’16. Production was 179 cases. Excellent. About $32.
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The difference between the previous zinfandel and the McCay Jupiter Zinfandel 2009, Lodi, lies in degrees of dryness and some austerity on the finish. The oak treatment is almost identical: French oak, 26 months, 22 percent new barrels, 33 percent second and third fill, the rest neutral. The color is a similar medium ruby, with a tinge of magenta at the rim; red and black cherries feel steeped in black tea, cloves and sandalwood with notes of some roasted element, but, again, the whole effect is of vibrant freshness and clarity. There is no trace of the fruit cake quality mentioned for the Truluck’s Zinfandel. Tannins seem permeated by dusty, granitic minerality, with overlays of smoke and loamy earth, yet fruit flavors remain blithe and juicy. After a few minutes in the glass the finish takes on a powerful strain of dry rigor and asperity that requires hearty, meaty fare to match its dimension. Still, a well-balanced, well-wrought zinfandel that avoids over-ripeness and alcoholic heat. 14.7 percent alcohol. Production was 449 cases. Now through 2015 or ’17. Excellent. About $28.
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