It was a casual Friday night. We had been to an art exhibition opening and were home again about to watch the last episode of The Borgias on DVD– it’s like The Sopranos set in late 15th Century Rome but better — and LL said, “Let’s do something with eggs,” and faster than you could say “La plume de ma tante” we had a beautiful salade Lyonnaise. My assignment was poaching the eggs. (Also with bacon, green beans, little potatoes, pieces of ripe tomato on a bed of baby kale, doused with a vinaigrette.) Ah, but what to drink with the notoriously hard-to-match-with-wine eggs? No problem, as waiters say incessantly today, a classic, dry rosé, but one made from grapes grown in California’s Los Carneros region.

The Robert Sinskey Vin Gris of Pinot Noir 2011, Los Carneros, is a true vin gris (“grey wine”) color, a light, slightly copperish onion skin hue. The wine is not made by bleeding off juice from the crushing of red grapes; this one is whole-cluster pressed, carefully, and then taken off the skins to leave that pale pigmentation. This is, I’ll assert right out loud, a world-class rosé, not just spicy but savory, not just fruity but flavorful, not sweet at all but bone-dry and yet almost luscious in texture. Aromas of dried red currants and raspberries are woven with hints of orange rind, camellia, limestone and a sort of dusty slate aspect; a few minutes in the glass bring in an intriguing grassy/dried thyme note. In the mouth, you feels layers of complexity, red fruit, of course, but touches of rhubarb, beet-root and peach skin, cloves, warm stones, the lithic edge of slate and a citric tang to the scintillating acidity. Immensely attractive and pleasurable, a rosé with an unusual marriage of energy and elegance, and a great drink with the salade Lyonnaise. 13.8 percent alcohol. Now through summer 2013. Excellent. About $28; I paid $30 locally. Very limited production, so mark this Worth a Search.

Wine image from