Mon 20 Feb 2012
Do Women Want Cute Wine?
Posted by Fredric Koeppel under Labels , The industry , What Were They Thinking[5] Comments
My answer to the question posed in the title of this post would be “No,” but who am I to contradict the research, development and
marketing arms of such companies as W.J. Deutsch & Sons and Treasury Wine Estates? (Treasury Wine Estates is the former wine division of the Fosters Group, which underwent a “demerger” of wine from the brewing business in 2011.)
One of Treasury’s numerous brands, labels and wineries is the venerable Beringer, which is launching a brand called Be. — the period is part of the name — aiming at “sophisticated women who seek a more chic, stylish yet casual approach to wine,” according to Stephen Brauer, managing director of Beringer, quoted in Shanken News Daily. Be., which rolls out in April, will feature a Chardonnay and Riesling and, inevitably, a Pink Moscato and Pinot Grigio; the price will be about $13. Does Be. capture the essence of “woman” and all for which she stands? Perhaps someone at Beringer or Treasury has been reading Robert Graves, one of whose later poetry collections was titled Man Does, Woman Is. Another Treasury brand, by the way, is Emma Pearl — how many hours and meetings went into that name? — whose target audience is women 30 and over. The price of the Emma Pearl Chardonnay and Merlot is $16,
indicating that women who buy Emma Pearl are better off financially that the target audience for Be., i.e, they’re older and have jobs.
Coincidentally, W. J. Deutsch, the importer based in Harrison, N.Y., is introducing a label called Flirt, aimed at “female consumers” — age and demographic not specified — that will cost about $11. First to be released is a blend of syrah, zinfandel and tempranillo from 2010.
We have seen this phenomenon before, in products such as Brown-Forman’s Little Black Dress label and the Folonari Pink Pinot Grigio, imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons. I don’t know what the sales figures are on these wines; perhaps women flock to them like passenger pigeons darkening the skies of 19th Century America. One imagines the meeting rooms of adult beverage conglomerates filled with junior-grade executives pondering Freud’s infamous question: “What does a woman want?”
The women I know who love wine would gag rather than drink something patronizingly called Flirt or Little Black Dress, because what they want from a bottle of wine is a well-made, authentic product whose price reflects its quality. And isn’t that what we all want
from a bottle of wine? I realize that we live in a contemporary cosmos of niche marketing; even so-called Millennials are, for marketing purposes, now divided into two groups, those ages 18 to 25 and those 25 to 32. We also live in an age governed by the Tyranny of Choice, so we can go into a grocery store and stand bewildered before a dozen varieties of Cheez-It Baked Snack Crackers (a trademark of Kellog) or Pringles (a trademark of Procter & Gamble). Indeed, the range of wines foreign and domestic in large stores is daunting, and consumers need help in choosing the right bottle for their purposes.
Still, do women really want wines that are “cute” or “fun” or “stylish” or “chic”? Are those truly the criteria women would use in selecting a bottle of wine? Or do they not mind being condescended to by the cynical machinations of corporate marketing divisions and their PR agencies and advertising minions? Where will this trend stop? Surely coming soon will be wines labeled “Dumb Blond,” “Barefoot and Pregnant” and “Can’t Live with ‘Em, Can’t Live without ‘Em.”
Images from babelwine.com; dexknows.com; wedind.com.
February 21st, 2012 at 11:51 pm
Let’s face it, there is always going to be a place for wines like “Bitch”, but I think they definitely have a shorter life in the market than the more “credible” brands. I give most people the benefit of the doubt when I see a bottle in their hands, as I almost tag these labels as more of an “impulse purchase”.
February 26th, 2012 at 10:25 am
Yes, these names come and go (or stick around for way too long). Honestly, though, the customers I see buying these wines are indeed female for the majority, giggling over the silliness of the name or label, and exclaiming how “this is actually really good!!” Sigh…
What I have yet (and would enjoy immensely) to see is: a burly, unshaven, straight-off-the-3-day-haul man come in and purchase a truly foul wine labelled something like “Dickhead”, “Braun vs Brain” or “Family Jewels.” Now THAT would be great.
March 14th, 2012 at 10:19 am
I just got a pitch from a PR firm promoting “Happy Bitch Rosé” (see http://happybitchwine.com/buy-on-line/), which appears to be not a wine but a brand, viz., a marketing phenomenon wrapped around a carefully positioned consumer packaged good, the net effect of which, despite the developers’ intent, is both misogynistic and patronizing.
Women want real wine. Sell us real wine.
April 23rd, 2013 at 8:30 am
All I can say is you hit that right on the head – I agree completely!
May 14th, 2013 at 8:05 pm
Wonderful issues altogether, you just gained a new reader. What could you recommend about your submit that you just made some days ago? Any positive?