Sipping a rosé wine with my cheese toast for lunch is from a view-point more of hope than practicality, since today in my neck o’ the woods the sky is gray, rain is falling relentlessly and the temperature is far below normal. This in addition to the fact that Ol’ Man River is higher than flood stage and its streams and tributaries are in full-flood, driving people in low-lying areas away from their homes and businesses. Matters look fairly serious in the Mid-South, so call it an act of optimism that I broach the Gustave Lorentz Le Rosé 2009, a 100 percent pinot noir rose wine from Alsace. This, friends, is classic. While most of the rosés we drink this summer will be from 2010, don’t neglect the 2009s, many of which are drinking splendidly now, with a bit of added flesh and heft to them. The Gustave Lorentz Le Rosé 2009 is delightful and elegant. The color is exactly what one wants from a rose, a shade of copper slightly darker than the traditional onion skin, a hue a bit more salmon-like than what’s called “eye of the partridge”; how about pale topaz shimmered with tarnished silver? I think you get the idea. So: dried raspberries and red currants, a hint of watermelon, a rosé of stones and bones yet almost juicy with its red fruit and stone-fruit flavors (there’s a touch of peach) and late lavings of mint, lavender and dried Provencal herbs underlain by a modest yet appropriate amount of limestone-like minerality. Spare, sleek and (did I say this before) elegant yet so damned tasty. Yeah, you could just drink it by the freakin’ gallon! (But don’t!) Through September or October this year. 12.5 percent alcohol. I rarely rate rosé wines Excellent, but here goes: Excellent! About $20.

Imported by Quintessential, Napa Cal. A sample for review, as I am required to state by the FCC.