Sun 12 Sep 2010
This time the region is Calatayud, just south of the region of Campo de Borja in northern central Spain. Produced by Bodegas Agustin Cubero, the Unus Old Vine Garnacha 2007 draws on vines planted between 1934 and 1960; the wine is 100 percent garnacha (grenache) and ages eight months in a combination of French, American and Hungarian oak barrels. The color is a radiant medium ruby; aromas of ripe black raspberries and red currants, with many forms of plums and a touch of slightly astringent mulberry are bolstered by dry scents of briers and brambles. The wine is quite dry but bursting with lipsmacking, almost plush ripeness of black fruit flavors as well as savory tannins that become more foresty and austere as the moments pass. Layers of slate-like and granite-infused minerality form the wine’s stalwart foundations, but after an hour it mellows out nicely. An appealing yet fairly serious wine with heaps of personality to drink with hearty red meat dishes or hard, dry cheeses like an aged Piave, which, as a matter of fact, I was nibbling as I tasted. Alcohol content is 13.5 percent. Drink through 2012 or ’14. Very Good+. About — ready for this? — $10, a Raving Good Value.
Scoperta Importing, Cleveland heights, Ohio. A sample for review.