I have a quartet of reserve wines from the estate of Gustave Lorentz, founded in 1836, to taste and write about, and by all logic I should write about them together, but our dinner last night was so good and the wine so delectable that I will throw reason out the window and get down to it.

LL has made shrimp risotto countless times, yet for some reason last night’s rendition was particularly memorable; I’ll go ahead and say perfect.

I opened the Gustave Lorentz Reserve Pinot Blanc 2009, from Alsace, and while the risotto and the wine did not match perfectly — the risotto needed something a little juicier — there was no doubt that the wine was a beguiling tissue of subtleties. Fermentation occurs in vats of wood, steel and glass, and the wine rests five months in tank. So, first, a pale straw-gold color and aromas of roasted lemon and lemon balm, something slightly smoky, a touch of jasmine, and after a few moments, hints of quince and ginger; exquisite delicacy in the mouth, but riven by a taut core of clarion acidity and, again after a few moments, damp limestone, revealing, as it were, both tinsel and tensile strength; then nuances of spiced green tea and a bit of orange rind; all leading to a dry, spicy yet elegant finish. Absolutely lovely. Alcohol content is 12.5 percent. Drink now through 2013 to ’15, carefully stored. Excellent. About $20, a Great Value.

While writing this post, I have a glass of the wine next to me, and I’m nibbling a dry, nutty sliver of Piave Nuda Stravechia cheese. It works beautifully.

Imported by Quintessential, Napa, Cal. A sample for review.