Nothing could have been simpler or, honestly, more delicious. For dinner last night, LL sprinkled olive oil and tarragon, salt and pepper on a fillet of steelhead salmon and let it sit for a while. She thinly sliced about a dozen fingerling potatoes and sauteed them in olive oil with celery and green onions and dressed them with a vinaigrette to make a warm salad. We had some baby bok choy left from Chinese take-out the night before. She briefly sauteed the salmon in a cast-iron skillet and then put the skillet with the salmon in a 375-degree oven for about three minutes. The salmon came out with a slight crust but was just at rare in the interior. Perfection.

For wine I opened a bottle of the Natura Chardonnay 2008, from the Emiliana winery in Chile’s Casablanca Valley. This is a cool region, northwest of Santiago, where the climate is appropriate for chardonnay and pinot noir. The Natura wines are made from certified, organically-grown grapes.

The grapes are fermented in stainless steel tanks; half of the wine stays in tank while the other half goes into French and American oak for five months. This is a chardonnay nicely balanced between steely minerality, earthiness and ripe, spicy fruit. It opens with lime, lime peel and limestone that expand into pineapple and grapefruit. The pineapple and grapefruit linger in the mouth, unfolding touches of quince, ginger and cloves and a hint of mango. In a few minutes, the nose offers a beguiling strain of jasmine and honeysuckle. Grounding this range of delights is a persistent chalk-like mineral quality and lively acidity. A light, delicate chardonnay for summer drinking. Very Good+. About $11 to $13, and a Great Bargain.

Royal Imports, a division of Banfi Vintners, Old Brookville, N.Y.

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