Tue 3 Feb 2009
Luzon is one of the world’s great inexpensive wines. Made in the arid plains of Jumilla in south central Spain — the region receives less than 12 inches of rain a year — the wine exemplifies the dense, ripe, mossy nature that warm, dry climates elicit from grapes.
Luzon 2007 is a blend of 65 percent monastrell grapes (mourvèdre) and 35 percent syrah. The wine is robust and chewy, but finely-knit. You smell a touch of fruitcake, candied orange zest, black currants and blueberries, clean earth and minerals. Tannins feel powdery, smooth and polished; this wine slides across the palate like motor oil. Deep flavors of intense and concentrated black fruit — the theme song is “Black Is the Color of My True Love’s Hair” — are permeated by oolong tea, lavender, baking spices and granite, all somehow pulverized infinitesimally with mortar and pestle. Yeah, this is a winner, fit for rustic comfort food or, as we drank a bottle last night, standing around the kitchen with friends snacking on chips and almonds. Very Good+. About $8 to $11, a Terrific Bargain.
A Jorge Ordoñez Selection.