We were raking leaves in the backyard, and I decided to take a break and make a little lunch. I sliced some salami and prosciutto, put out a bowl of oil-cured olives, a piece of Morbier and a couple of chunks of a Coastal Cheddar that’s quite good. I made bruschetta using some artichoke-and-lemon and some dried tomato spread topped with mozzarella and thyme. That was it. And I opened a bottle of Lambrusco Cubista from Ca’ da’ Medici in Italy’s Emilia Romagna region. Though it has been cold and rainy for the past few days, last Saturday was balmy enough, before the clouds came in, to sit out on the screened porch, nibble a tidbit of two and knock back a few glasses of this compulsively quaffable beverage. “I could drink this stuff all day long,” I said. “Oh, I don’t know about that,” said LL, “but it certainly goes well with this kind of food.”
Lambrusco is a lighty fizzy, low-alcohol wine that the Emilia-Romagnans drink to balance the rich food of the area. Plenty of bland, sweet, merely bubbly Lambrusco exists, but a model like Ca’ de’ Medici’s Cubista makes a mark with some definition of character as well as delight. It’s made from four varieties of the lambrusco grape: salamino, marani, montericco and maestri.

The color is dark purple; the mild fizz produces a pink froth in the glass before it subsides. Aromas of dark raspberries and plums with a hint of spiced mulberries and a touch of wet stones draw you in; in the mouth, this wine is, granted, pretty simple stuff, but wildly delicious, filled with flavors of ripe raspberries, blackberries and plums permeated by (again) spicy, stony elements, all enlivened by vivid acidity. It ain’t going to rock your world, Jack, but at the right time and the right place, it’s irresistible. Very Good. About $10.

Rose Imports, Crestwood, Il.