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You’re thinking, in tones of mock outrage, “Twenty-two smackers for a pinot grigio?” Yes, friends, but this is no ordinary pinot grigio. La Tunella Pinot Grigio 2007, from Colli Orientali del Friuli — “Eastern Hills of Friuli,” nestled against Slovenia — is boldly spicy, deeply minerally and bountiful in flavor. Made completely in stainless steel, the wine is crisp and vibrant enough to be tart yet lush enough to be seductive (from resting on the lees in tank). The bouquet blossoms with orange flower and almond, cloves and roasted lemon; flavors of baked pear and apple and a touch of citrus are supported by layers of shale and limestone. This wine manages to be resonant in dimension and winsome in detail, a pinot grigio that’s bursting with both character and delight. Excellent. About $22.

Imported by Quintessential, Napa, Ca.