Fri 15 Feb 2008
The current issue of the “Wine Spectator” — Jan. 31-Feb. 29, 2008 — helpfully recapitulates last year’s reviewing program by listing all the wines reviewed in 2007 by name, price and rating. The descriptions of the wines are omitted, but those tend to be pretty damned telegraphic anyway.
What’s interesting about the issue, though, is a section in which the Spectator’s writers and reviewers go country by country and region by region and reveal the average price of the wines in the different scoring categories. This is particularly important in the top scoring — let’s call it “iconic” — segment of wines rated 90 to 100 points of the WS 100-point scale.
Look for example at this breakdown for France:
Red Bordeaux: Average price of wines scoring 90 to 100: $95.
Red Burgundy: Average price of wines scoring 90 to 100: $116
White Burgundy: Average price of wines scoring 90 to 100: $86.
Rhone Valley: Average price of wines scoring 90 to 100: $72.
Loire Valley: Average price of wines scoring 90 to 100: $32.
Alsace: Average price of wines scoring 90 to 100: $73.
Champagne: Average price of wines scoring 90 to 100: $92
Languedoc & Roussillon: Average price of wines scoring 90 to 100: $35.
Other France: Average price of wines scoring 90 to 100: $41.
Do I have to spell it out for you? B-U-Y L-O-I-R-E.
It’s also interesting that for California, the guide does not go through all the counties and regions and valleys in similar manner; that would take a book. Instead, the matter is arranged by grape. Here’s the sequence:
Cabernet sauvignon: Average price of wines scoring 90 to 100: $103.
Chardonnay: Average price of wines scoring 90 to 100: $48.
Pinot noir: Average price of wines scoring 90 to 100: $52.
Syrah: Average price of wines scoring 90 to 100: $47.
Zinfandel: Average price of wines scoring 90 to 100: $32.
Merlot: Average price of wines scoring 90 to 100: $52.
Sauvignon blanc: Average price of wines scoring 90 to 100: $24.
Other grapes: Average price of wines scoring 90 to 100: $45.
Do I have to spell it out for you? B-U-Y S-A-U-V-I-G-N-O-N B-L-A-N-C A-N-D Z-I-N-F-A-N-D-E-L.
Now these figures do not take into account the rarity of certain wines, the prestige of properties and vineyards and other factors, but this much is clear: Of all the regions and countries mentioned in this exercise, only New Zealand comes in at a lower average price — $30 — of wines scoring 90 to 100 points than the Loire Valley. And much as the wines of New Zealand have improved in the past 10 or 15 years, they don’t represent nearly the diversity of grapes and styles that the Loire Valley does, from Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume in the east to Muscadet in the west, with Chinon and Anjou and Savennieres and Vouvray and Saumur and many other smaller appellations in between.
Perhaps 2008 should be the Year of the Loire, and we should spend the next 10 months exploring its varied treasures.
Alternatively, it seems like a good time to fill the spaces in your wine rack or the boxes in your closet with sauvignon blanc and zinfandel wines from California, experimenting with different regions, vineyards and labels. There would be worst ways to spend the rest of the year.
February 15th, 2008 at 7:37 pm
I like your approach. Of course, I’m already biased toward Loire Valley wines but this is one of the reasons. Great observation!
February 16th, 2008 at 8:45 am
shhh. keep quiet, PLEASE. also beaujolais, by the way.
February 16th, 2008 at 1:51 pm
Yeah, Fred. Why give away good secrets???
Question:
Do the Wine Expectorant tasters know the prices of the wines before they assign scores to them?
February 17th, 2008 at 12:39 am
I’d like to see the number for German Riesling. I’d gamble that is was in the reasonable category as well(if you can take out those TBAs and Eisweins)…
February 17th, 2008 at 9:57 am
OK, all right, already, I’m sorry!
Tom: According to the WS tasting guide, all tastings are conducted blind. The panel or person knows only the general type of wine and vintage.
CW: The average price of the top scoring wines from Germany was $74, so of course that’s accounts for the TBAs and Eisweins, not the more reasonable rieslings.
February 17th, 2008 at 11:55 am
This is a great way to break down what a large company thinks of wines…however, with issues such as production levels, advertising, and year in year out bias. I am not one to base my wine purchases off of a large company like Wine Spectator. They are a good source for an area when you know nothing about it…but for the most part. I think their rating system is flawed. Who decides the difference between a 90 point wine and an 89 point wine? It’s all based on a person’s perception…and everyone’s perception differs. I say find a local retailer that has made good reccomendations to you in the past…as stick to them…or decide for yourself. Just don’t go chasing scores….
February 18th, 2008 at 6:52 am
Yes, Kirk, the WS system is inherently flawed, but that’s an old and on-going battle. The point is that whatever we think of the 100-point rating process — rigid, arbitrary, fantacist and so on — the article tells us something true about the price-quality ratio of groups of wines from around the world, and basically the Loire Valley comes out as the best. We are legion, of course, who don’t believe, as you say, in chasing scores.
February 19th, 2008 at 4:55 pm
Thanks for answering my question, Fred.
I don’t know. Maybe I’m a cynic–surprise!!! But I don’t believe mush of anything from that and one other so-called wine magazine. And I certainly think that giving a subjective score to wine is as useful to others as the music that plays in one’s head…
February 19th, 2008 at 4:56 pm
much, not mush.
February 26th, 2008 at 6:42 pm
Good god, man! Why on earth would you spell this out for people?!? I’ve been buying and drinking with impunity on my middle income dollar, and now i’m going to have to elbow people out of the way to get the bottles I like? If that happens, I’ll know where to send my “thank you” letter.
February 27th, 2008 at 10:25 pm
OKOKOK, I already apologized, Brooklynguy, but you know I’m sure there will be plenty of Loire wines at little neighborhood stores that nobody knows about. i hope.