Willamette Valley’s Left Coast Cellars grows pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot gris and blanc, making these grapes into generally delicious and accessible wines. I’m a fan of the pinot noirs, but today let’s look at whites and pinks. The winery, founded in 2003, is certified organic, runs on solar power, participates in a salmon preservation program and employs new oak to a modest degree. What’s not to like? Winemaker is Joe Wright.

These wines were samples for review.

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When my wife tried a sip of the Left Coast Cellars Queen Bee Bubbly 2017, Willamette Valley, she said, “Can we just drink this every day?” Yes, it’s that delightful. The gently effervescent wine is 100 percent pinot noir, made in what’s called in France the methode ancienne or ancestrale, meaning that after fermentation the wine is bottled with a tiny portion of yeast and residual sugar. These elements act upon each other to produce the bubbles, often leaving a residue of sediment in the bottle. The dosage in the case of the Queen Bee Bubbly 2018 is honey from the winery estate. The color is light copper-orange; while the first impression is of strawberry, rhubarb and pomegranate, the strain of fresh apple and apple skin cannot be denied; the structure is surprisingly steely and flint-like, while a few minutes in the glass being in notes of honeysuckle and grapefruit. Exhilarating. Drink up, you lucky few; production was 165 six-pack cases. Excellent. About $36.

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The Left Coast Cellars Rose 2018, Willamette Valley, is a blend of 76 percent pinot noir and 24 percent pinot meunier that fermented in neutral French oak barrels and aged six months in the same. The color is a very pale copper-salmon hue; it’s a fairly ripe and fleshy rose that features scents and flavors of peaches and raspberries that blossom with notes of cranberry, pomegranate and rose petal; from mid-palate back this rose develops touches of melon and tangerine, while the earthy, flint-tinged element grows. Production was 824 cases. Very Good+. About $24.

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Perhaps I just don’t get the concept of white pinot noir. I mean, why use good pinot noir grapes to make a “white” wine? Not that the Left Coast Cellars White Pinot Noir 2018, Willamette Valley, doesn’t possess some charm. (It’s 93 percent pinot noir with nine percent pinot blanc, made all in stainless steel and aged five months on the lees.) It’s very pale, almost colorless, and offers pleasing notes of melon, pear and lilac with sufficient limestone minerality and bright acidity for structure. These elements feel pretty attenuated, though, and pass through one’s sensory range without much impression. Chill it well and sip by the side of the pool on a hot day. Very Good+. About $24.

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The winery’s “The Orchard” Pinot Gris is a favorite summertime quaff around our house. In its latest iteration, the Left Coast Cellars “The Orchard” Pinot Gris 2018, Willamette Valley, is 100 percent varietal, fermented and aged six months, 95 percent in stainless steel, five percent in neutral French oak barrels. The color is pale straw-gold; first come beguiling aromas of roasted lemon and spiced pear, ginger and quince, all highlighted by a touch of almond blossom and apple skin; the wine is tart and crisp on the palate, though couched in a lovely almost talc-like texture; the slightly saline finish brings in a hint of pineapple and flint, with just a haze of oak to complete the package. 13.7 percent alcohol. Purely delightful. Excellent. About $18, representing Fine Value.

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The Left Coast Cellars “Truffle Hill” Chardonnay 2017, Willamette Valley , is one of the most enjoyable chardonnays we consumed this year. Aged 10 months in 500-liter French oak puncheons, the wine practically shimmers in the glass. The color is medium straw-yellow; the bouquet is a melange of roasted lemon and pineapple, hay and cloves, honeysuckle and damp stones; it’s dense and supple, quite dry, yet juicy with spicy stone-fruit flavors animated by citrus tartness; the finish develops notes of smoke, baked grapefruit and limestone minerality. 13 percent alcohol. We drank this wine quite happily with a risotto of asparagus, roasted garlic and Parmesan. Now through 2021 or ’22. Excellent. About $24.

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