The Frank Family Vineyard Zinfandel 2016, Napa Valley, feels like a true classic of the genre, rich and ripe, to be sure, but restrained by acidity and mineral elements. Winemaker Todd Graff used nine percent petite sirah to the balance of zinfandel grapes and aged the wine 16 months in French oak, 33 percent new barrels. Most of the grapes derived from the Chiles Valley AVA, in the Vaca Mountains, a cool, quiet, seemingly remote area northeast of Napa Valley proper; the rest of the grapes came from vineyards in Rutherford, St. Helena and Calistoga. The color is medium ruby-purple shading to a lighter rim; dominating the nose are scents of blueberries, plums and black currants, permeated by notes of mocha and sandalwood, lavender and graphite, black pepper and oolong tea; on the palate, this zinfandel is about as sleek and polished as they come, though imbued with briery and brambly qualities and dusty, velvety tannins; a few moments in the glass unfold touches of slightly jammy boysenberry and currant preserves, but the entire enterprise is balanced by energetic acidity and undertones of granitic minerality. 14.8 percent alcohol. Are you thinking smoked ribs, brisket, grilled pork chops, even just a big juicy burger? Here’s your wine. Drink now through 2022 or ’23. Excellent. About $38.

A sample for review.