Artezin Wines was launched in 2002 as a brand for exploiting old zinfandel vineyards in Sonoma and Mendocino counties. It’s part of The Hess Collection of labels and wineries. Randle Johnson has been winemaker for Artezin since its inception. The product line has expanded from a basic offering to single-vineyard zinfandels and other red varieties like carignan, petite sirah and, unusually, the rare charbono. The Artezin Old Vines Zinfandel 2017, Mendocino County, contains 15 percent petite sirah grapes; the wine aged in one- and two-year-old French oak barrels. The color is a warm medium ruby hue that tapers to an ethereal rim; it’s a pure and intense wine that offers classic notes of blueberries and fruitcake, cloves and black tea, with wisps of orange rind and strawberry; the texture is lithe and supple, not quite dense but certainly rife with dusty, graphite-tinged tannins; with a few minutes in the glass, the wine yields a slightly resinous quality, like cedar and dried rosemary, as well as touches of lavender and licorice; the finish is a seamless amalgam of every element. 14.8 percent alcohol, nicely balanced by bright acidity. Now through 2021 to ’23 with red-meat pasta sauces, pizzas, burgers and other grilled meat. Excellent. About $18, representing Good Value.

A sample for review.