Casting about for a wine to drink with a white bean soup — with bacon and pork belly — I picked up a bottle of the Bindi Sergardi “Al Canapo” 2016, Chianti Colli Senesi. It offered exactly the character we want with an inexpensive but well-made Chianti, this example 100 percent sangiovese grapes, produced all in stainless steel. Colli Senesi means “the hills of Siena,” marking one of the official sub-zones of Tuscany’s Chianti region. The color is a striking medium ruby-cherry with a hint of brick-red; the wine is pure sangiovese in the nose and on the palate: smoke, red cherries, graphite; sandalwood, violets and oolong tea; vibrant acidity propels the wine with lithe energy through to a finish that takes on a touched of cedar and mint. 13.5 percent alcohol. A perfect quaff with a variety of pasta dishes and pizzas. Now through 2021. Very Good+, About $17, representing Real Value.

Imported by Le Vignoble, Cordova, Tenn.