Sometimes a lighthearted wine of pure delight can move us as effectively as a wine of profound dimension. Our example today is the Breaking Bread Wines Grenache 2018, from Mendocino County’s Redwood Valley. One hundred percent varietal and fermented by whole clusters (carbonic maceration), the wine aged seven months in neutral French oak barrels; no sulfur was added. The color is a hypnotic bright cerise-magenta hue; penetrating notes of raspberry and cranberry are permeated by hints of graphite and lilac, with undertones of menthol and flint. Vivid acidity keeps the wine flowing with lively purpose on the palate, animating brushy red fruit flavors hedged by moderately sized dusty tannins. 12.9 percent alcohol. Lovely presence and personality. I could drink this wine all Summer long; you would have to be a real numb-nuts not to sell the hell out of it in by-the-glass programs. Excellent. About $24.

A sample for review.