Yes, we’re well into Spring and heading toward Summer. Here’s a roster of savory, spicy, saline white wines to ease the transition through the vagaries of changeable weather and shifting winds. In truth, of course, these six diverse wines might be consumed throughout the year. Call them eminently versatile. Also mostly excellent value. Of the six wines presented here, four offer terrific PQR — Price/Quality Ratio. All are from vintage 2017.

These wines were samples for review.


The 15.2 percent alcohol on the Ricardo Santo Semillon 2018, Mendoza, may give one pause, but somehow this absolutely lovely wine comes across as inherently delicate and elegant. It sees no oak. The grapes grow on 75-year-old vines at about 2,950 feet above sea level. The color is pale straw-gold; the nose offers spiced pear inflected by apricot and figs, with notes of lanolin and bee’s-wax and a sunny-leafy element that segues seamlessly onto the palate; there, the wine is moderately lush but lively in its lithe, sinewy character; touches of thyme and sage add detail to flavors of roasted lemon and quince; the whole package is a little prickly, attentive and altogether golden. Now through 2021 or ’22. Excellent. About $16, marking Amazing Value.

Imported by Global Vineyard, Berkeley, Calif.


The Tascante Buonora Carricante 2017, Etna Bianco, is made entirely from the carricante grape that’s indigenous to Sicily’s Mount Etna region. The wine sees no oak, only stainless steel. The color is pale straw-gold; penetrating aromas of roasted lemon and pear are permeated by notes of heather and loam, almond blossom and jasmine; the wine is quite dry and displays loads of taut tone and vigor; a few minutes in the glass bring out hints of tangerine and fig amid the spiced and macerated citrus and stone-fruit flavors; the finish is a welter of limestone, seashell and bracing salinity. 12 percent alcohol. Now through 2020 or ’21 with the panoply of roasted or grilled fish and seafood, or a platter of those tiny red shrimp the Sicilians eat raw with olive oil and lemon juice. Excellent. About $21.


Though the label says “pinot blanc,” the Trimbach Pinot Blanc 2017, Alsace, is 75 percent pinot auxerrois and 25 percent pinot blanc; the grapes are closely related, and such blends almost always will be labeled pinot blanc. This example, from an estate established in 1626, is a wine of such blazing purity and intensity that you will be surprised at the price. Made all in stainless steel, this Trimbach Pinot Blanc ’17 offers a pale but radiant straw-gold hue with faint green highlights and an array of lovely and seductive aromas: quince and yellow plums, apple and roasted lemon, meadows and hay and green tea, all segueing seamlessly to the palate. It’s a taut, vigorous and spicy wine whose lip-smacking acidity surges through a gently talc-like texture; a few minutes in the glass unfurl elements of slightly dusty earthiness and scintillating limestone minerality. 13 percent alcohol. Exquisitely balanced between the pretty and the robust. Now through 2021 or ’22. Excellent. About $21.

Imported by Esprit du Vin, Boca Raton, Fla.


As with all the wines issuing from this biodynamic estate, grapes for the Troon Vineyards Vermentino 2017, Applegate Valley, Oregon, were foot-trod and fermented by native yeasts; the wine aged six months in mature French oak barrels. Troon employs no new oak. The color is very pale straw-gold; it’s a wine of crystalline clarity and effect, featuring notes of quince and ginger, honeysuckle, heather and spiced pear. It’s quite dry and lithe on the palate, bracing with sea salt, tangerine and a touch of green tea; there’s a lovely astringency, mid-palate back through the finish, like slightly bitter hillside flowers and herbs. 12 percent alcohol. Now through 2020 with grilled seafood or risotto. Excellent. About $25.


The Wakefield St, Andrews Riesling 2017, from Australia’s Clare Valley, charges right out of the gate with pert and pertinent notes of acacia, iodine, roasted lemon and lime peel; a few moments in the glass add hints of talc and lilac; the theoretical color scheme on the palate is yellow and white, that is peach, pear and pale plums, and some slightly astringent little white flower; boy, this delivers tons of presence and personality, bringing in touches of cloves and quince, grapefruit and limestone. Crisp, taut and focused. 12.5 percent alcohol. Best from 2021 through 2027 to ’29. Excellent. About $40.

Seaview Imports, Port Washington, N.Y.


A pretty wine with plenty of lift and tensile power; what more could you ask for? The Domaine Weinbach Cuvee Colette Riesling 2017, Vin d’Alsace — from an estate founded in 1612 by the Capuchin order and owned by the Faller family since 1898 — certainly fulfills those criteria. Produced from certified organic and biodynamic vineyards, the wine is fermented by native yeast and ages eight to 10 months in large old oak casks. The color is medium straw-gold; a wafting perfume of pears and apricots is borne on a tissue of heather and hay, a note of lychee, a fillip of flint; the wine delivers amazing presence and vibrancy on the palate, with clean lemon, peach and lime peel flavors, bright acidity and taut, scintillating limestone minerality; the finish delivers a wash of damp flint, lacy and transparent. 13.5 percent alcohol. Now through 2025 to ’27. Excellent. About $48.

Imported by Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, Ala.