Nothing against cabernet, merlot and pinot noir; fine wines are often made from these grapes — if they’re not allowed to get over-ripe or high in alcohol or battened and battered by oak — but they’re so ubiquitous. Let’s give some other red grapes a chance, OK? Here then is a selection of that includes mourvèdre, tempranillo, petite sirah, petit verdot, nebbiolo, syrah and aglianico. Several of the wines featured today come in quite reasonably for price, that is, about $15 or $16, while a couple of others ramp up the scale to $65. You pays yer money and you takes yer choice. As usual, these Weekend Wine Notes eschew the minutiae of technical, historical and geographical matters for the sake of incisive reviews designed to pique your interest and whet your palate; you can wet your palate later. Enjoy, in moderation, of course.

These wines were samples for review.
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telegram
Bonny Doon Old Telegram 2014, Contra Costa County. 13.9% alc. 100% mourvèdre. Production was 277 cases. Dark ruby hue with a glowing magenta rim; deep, dark, spicy and meaty, a brooding concoction of tobacco leaf, wood smoke, fruit cake and plum pudding, very ripe black currants, blueberries and blackberries; very dry, displaying tar-and-lavender tinged black fruit flavors bolstered by flaring acidity, plush, dusty tannins and a seam of granitic minerality; still, with the grace not to be ponderous or blatant. Now through 2022 to ’24 with full-flavored, big-hearty roasts and grills. Excellent. About $45.
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bujanda
Viña Bujanda Crianza 2013, Rioja, Spain. 13% alc. 100% tempranillo grapes. Very dark black-ruby shading to a transparent magenta rim; ripe and rich, bursting with blackberries, black currants and a touch of juicy plum; cloves, lavender and graphite; dusty heather, smoke and violets; very dry, with smacky acidity and tannins. Heaps of personality and flavorful appeal. Now through 2018 or ’19. Very Good+. About $16.
Winebow, Inc., New York.
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Cadaretta Syrah 2013, Columbia Valley, Washington. 14.5% alc. 82% syrah, 11% mourvèdre, 5% grenache, 2% viognier (the blend listed on the cad syrahwinery website is slightly different). 500 cases. Stygian inky purple-violet color; loam, briers and brambles; black currants, cherries and plums; an infusion of mint and iodine, smoke and roasted meat, lavender and licorice; very dry, seethes with velvety tannins, graphite and charcoal, all propelled by a tide of glittering acidity. Quite a performance, without being flamboyant. Now through 2020 to ’23. Excellent. About $35.
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FF_Petite_Sirah_2013_EDIT
Frank Family Petite Sirah 2013, Napa Valley. 14.5% alc. 100% petite sirah. Inky purple with a nuclear violet rim; a big, juicy petite sirah that manages not to be overwhelming, made in a sensible fashion that showcases the grape; blackberries and black plums with a flush of blueberry and — deep down — a touch of pomegranate; a structure characterized by iodine and iron, graphite and dusty, velvety tannins; woodsy elements, forest floor, dried mushrooms emerge after a few minutes in the glass, leading to a finish that’s strict and a touch austere. Now through 2019 to ’21. Excellent. About $35.
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martinenga-barbaresco-docg
Marchesi di Gresy Martinenga Barbaresco 2012, Piedmont, Italy. 14% alc. 100% nebbiolo. Limpid, medium bright ruby, like a glass of wine in a Dutch still-life painting; wild berries, woodsy herbs and flowers, a touch of sour cherry, a lash of red currants and blueberries; briers and brambles and foresty elements ensconced in a welter of tar, briers and brambles, violets and rose petals; dusty, supple tannins build in the glass, along with pine and balsam notes, hints of cloves and allspice; all leading to a finish of noble dimensions in its elegance and high-toned austerity. A beautiful expression of the nebbiolo grape. Best from 2018 through 2028 to ’30. Excellent. About $50.
Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, Calif.
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11PS_MS_FRONT-WO-ALC
Grgich Hills Estate Miljenko’s Selection Petite Sirah 2012, Calistoga, Napa Valley. 15.4% alc. 589 cases. 100% petite sirah. Inky black-purple with an intense violet rim; this is like liquid ore from the darkest vein, with dusty plums, iodine, smoked black tea and a profound graphite-granitic mineral character; dense, velvety and succulent on the palate, very ripe black fruit but not sweet or cloying; very dry, with sleek tannins and lithe acidity; you feel an infusion of oak and alcohol on the finish, but the wine is surprisingly well-balanced. Now through 2019 or ’20. Excellent. About $65.
The label image is one vintage behind.
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2013-PVMS-750ml-Front_WITH-ALC-1Grgich Hills Miljenko’s Selection Yountville Petit Verdot 2013, Napa Valley. 14.5% alc. With 11% cabernet sauvignon. Dark ruby with a glowing purple rim; very intense and concentrated, with a tight focus on black currants, raspberries and blueberries permeated by lavender, black licorice and mocha; leather and loam, heaps of dusty, gravelly, graphite-infused tannins powered by lips-smacking acidity. Needs a couple of years to come together. Very Good+. About $65.
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mastro
Mastro Aglianico 2014, Campania, Italy. 12.5% alc. 100% aglianico grapes. From Mastroberardino. A radiant medium ruby color; a tarry, ferrous and sanguinary red, with deeply spicy and macerated black cherries and currants, notes of iron and violets, leather and loam; long, dusty, sinewy tannins and vibrant acidity; a finish packed with spice, black fruit and minerals. Now through 2018 with barbecue ribs, grilled pork chops with a Southwestern rub, carnitas with intense mole, your best chili. Very Good+. About $15.
Imported by Winebow, Inc. New York. The 2015, now available, has a totally different label.
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2013-Petite-Sirah
Peachy Canyon Petite Sirah 2014, Paso Robles. 14.5% alc. With 5% syrah. 488 cases. Opaque black-ruby with a purple rim; spiced, macerated and roasted plums and black currants with an intriguing resinous, balsamic edge; smoked meat, oolong tea, cloves and sandalwood; a very dry wine but juicy with ripe and spicy black and blue fruit flavors; shaggy tannins buoyed by brisk acidity; some roots-and-branches austerity in a finish drenched with fruit and granitic minerality. A beautifully balanced petite sirah that reflects the essential rustic nature of the grape. Now through 2019 to ’21. Excellent. About $32.
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tasca
Tasca Regaleali Nero d’Avola 2014, Sicilia. 14% alc. 100% nero d’Avola grapes. Intense dark ruby shading to lighter ruby hue; uncomplicated but delicious, with black and red raspberries and currants, loam and graphite, dry, well-integrated tannins and lively acidity; it’s vibrant, spicy and appealing, so bring on a platter of spaghetti and meatballs or veal Parmesan. Very Good+. About $15.
A Leonardo LoCascio Selection, Winebow, Inc., New York.
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Never heard of the schiava grape? I’ll confess, dear readers, that I had not either until I was offered some wines made from the grape for review. Schiava grows in the Alto Adige region of northeastern Italy, in the mountainous area where the Italian and German languages intertwine and ancient geographical and familial relationships are more important than political borders. Also known as vernatsch, the grape makes — in my brief acquaintance — light, delicious red wines that are fairly low in tannins and high in acidity, exactly, that is, the sort of wine perfect for drinking with an eclectic variety of foods. Wines fashioned from the schiava grape make excellent transitional quaffs between the end of Winter and the beginning of Spring, and should even serve well into Summer with grilled fare. The grape yields generously, so it must be carefully regulated in the vineyard not to over-produce. It grows well in the mid-range altitudes, about 250 to 500 meters above sea level. When we finished our research on these wines — i.e., drinking — and one night I brought out a different red wine for dinner, LL said, “Don’t you have any more of those schiava wines?” That’s how fresh and appealing they are.

All of these wines bear a Südtirol-Alto Adige designation. The wines were samples for review.
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meran
Grapes for the Cantina Merano Graf von Meran Schnickenberg Sciava 2014 grew in vineyards that extend from 400 to 450 meters; the wine aged in a combination of stainless steel tanks and oak barrels. The color is a delicate, transparent ruby-cherry, an aspect somehow reflected in its spectrum of red and black cherry scents and flavors inflected with cherry skin and pit and a mild touch of cloves and violets. It’s quite dry, enlivened by lip-smacking acidity and an almost feral dusty graphite character on the finish. 13 percent alcohol. Very Good+. About $17.50.
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sallegg
The Castel Sallegg Bischofsleiten Schiava 2014 offers an absolutely beautiful transparent ruby-garnet hue and pert notes of red cherry, sour melon and raspberry, with a typical briery-brambly core. The wine aged four months in stainless steel tanks and large wooden barrels. On the palate, it’s lithe and wiry, spare but tasty in spicy red fruit elements and animated by brisk acidity. 12.5 percent alcohol. Very Good. About $19.
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We would happily have consumed a case of the Nals Margreid Galea Schiava 2014, a wine of intricately layered delicacy and nuance that galeaunveils a slightly more serious focus than the others examples mentioned here. No technical information was available, so I can’t say anything about the aging process. The company is a co-op of some 140 growers, founded in 1985 by the merger of two other co-op entities. The color is a limpid medium ruby shading to faint garnet; red cherries and raspberries open to hints of cherry skin, violets and intriguing notes of mulberries and woodsy spice and flowers. The aura is light and elegant, yet the texture is silky, almost dense, buoyed by bright acidity and a nod toward slightly dusty, graphite-infused tannins. 13 percent alcohol. Drink through 2018. Excellent. About $20, and definitely Worth a Search.
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bocado
The Cantina Andriano Bocado Schiava 2014 derives from vineyards lying between 260 and 500 meters above sea level; the wine fermented in stainless steel and aged in large oak casks. The color is a bright, transparent cherry red, while the fruit aspect emphasizes raspberries with their skins and stems, for a slightly astringent, raspy quality, highlighted by plums and violets. Lithe and spare on the palate, the wine is propelled by dynamic acidity and a slight edge of graphite minerality. 13 percent alcohol. Founded in 1893, Andriano was the first cooperative in Alto Adige. Very Good+. About $23.
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Celia Welch may be the most important winemaker that you’ve never heard of in Napa Valley, though devotees of high-quality boutique yount sb labelwineries know her work well. Welch is a consulting winemaker for Barbour Vineyards, Hollywood & Vine Cellars, J. Davies Winery, Keever Vineyards and Winery and Scarecrow Wines. She is the winemaker for Lindstrom Wines and owner and winemaker of Corra Wines. Despite her busy involvement in these producers, Welch has a new project called Yount Ridge, one of whose wines is our Wine of the Day No. 240. This is a limited edition bottling that My Readers will have to use their wiles to search out, but I know you’re up to the challenge. Grapes for the Yount Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Napa Valley, derived from an organically-farmed vineyard in the Oakville District AVA; the wine matured a brief four months in a combination of 70 percent stainless steel tanks and 30 percent new French oak, a judicious employment of wood, if you ask me. The color is pale straw-gold; a glorious, green, leafy bouquet encompasses notes of caraway and toasted hazelnuts, lemongrass and figs, smoked pears, thyme and tarragon. The wine is lively and spicy on the palate, animated by bright acidity coursing through a lovely talc-like texture bolstered by an edge of limestone minerality; a few moments in the glass bring in hints of white pepper and chives, lime peel and tangerine. The grapefruit-tinged finish is spare and elegant, chiseled from chalk, sea salt and flint. 14.2 percent alcohol. A beautifully-wrought sauvignon blanc for drinking through 2018 to 2020. Production was 160 cases. Exceptional. About $35.

A sample for review.

Olema_PN (1)
If you can find a well-made, delicious and authentic Sonoma County pinot noir for $20, clasp it to thy bosom with gratitude and fervor. Such a one -tah-dah! — is the Olema Pinot Noir 2014, from Sonoma County but with generous contribution s from the more specific and pinot-friendly AVAs of Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. Olema is the second, less expensive label of Amici Cellars. The wine aged 12 months in French oak, 35 percent new barrels. The color is a lovely, transparent medium ruby hue with a delicate, almost invisible rim; this is a clean and fresh pinot noir that offers an essential loamy underpinning as support for notes of rhubarb and sassafras, red cherries and smoky plums and just a hint of shy forest flowers. On the palate, the Olema Pinot Noir 2014 feels warm, spicy and inviting, dry, to be sure, but juicy with red and black fruit flavors highlighted by new leather, cloves and black pepper. The wine builds subtle layers in the glass, so after a few minutes, you notice elements of briers and brambles and graphite, all fixed in place by bright acidity and nuanced, slightly dusty minerality. 14.2 percent. A truly engaging pinot noir for drinking through 2018 with roasted chicken or coq au vin, smoked turkey, game birds and grilled leg of lamb. Excellent. About $20, representing Good Value.

A sample for review.

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea and the largest province of Italy. Its proximity to the toe of the Italian boot and map of sicilyto the coast of North Africa, and its geographical convergence in ancient sea-lanes means not only that the island was settled early by seafaring peoples from eastward — first the Phoenicians, then the Greeks — but that it served as a flash-point for contention, conquest and subjugation, all the way through the 19th Century. It strikes the heart of the history-lover with awe to think that cities like Syracuse and Palermo are among the oldest continuously inhabited population centers in Europe. The former was established by Greeks on the island’s southeastern coast in 734 B.C. The older Palermo, on the northwest coast, was settled by the Phoenicians, who explored the island’s western regions, in the 10th Century B.C. In fact, as you stroll down the long, straight, narrow main street in Palermo’s oldest quarter, still battered by the Allied bombing of World War II, guides will tell you that it was laid out by the Phoenicians, so you are walking where feet have trod for three millennia.

When you travel through western Sicily, you could readily believe that the island was dredged from the sea by Neptune’s trident and hammered out on Vulcan’s forge. The rugged hills stand precipitous, seemingly random in configuration in great blocks of granite and sandstone. Among those green-swaddled hills and valleys, near the commune of Sambuco di Sicilia, lies Stemmari, a wine estate dedicated to producing enjoyable and authentic varietal wines at affordable prices, aimed primarily at the American market. Stemmari is owned by Gruppo Mezzacorona, the well-known producer in Trentino, in the foothills of the Italian Dolomites. Mezzacorona’s other brands include Castel Firmian; Rotari, which makes traditional method sparkling wines; Tolloy; and Feudo Arancio, also in Sicily.

The winery of Stemmari, spread along a gently sloping hillside, looks out to a succession of crests and valleys that march to the sea. The stemmari 1architecture — clean and elegant — echoes the traditional style of the region, and when visitors stand in the palm-shaded courtyard, they have no idea that behind several of those chaste white walls are arrayed the tanks and barrels and other equipment of winemaking. Winemaker for Stemmari is Lucio Matricardi, a man who defines the notions of affability, volubility and good humor. A tour of Stemmari’s estate vineyards — I and several other winewriters on a sponsored trip — is an exercise in education, information, folktale and local lore, all embellished and enhanced by comedic asides that somehow contribute to the overall learning experience.

The winery is completely solar-powered, recycles water and employs sustainable practices in the vineyards. Stemmari was the first winery in Italy to receive EMAS 2 certification on the entire production and is certified according to UNI-ENISO 14011 environmental guidelines. The estate continuously experiments with grape varieties planted in different plots, and if that variety doesn’t perform as anticipated in that particular climat, the vineyard is torn out and replanted. I mentioned to Matricardi that such a procedure must be expensive. “That’s true,” he said, “but we want to get things right. And the money is there. Mezzacorona sells grapes to producers in Trentino that would surprise you, such as –,” but here his importer representative cut him off. The importer is Prestige Wine Imports, based in New York and a subsidiary of Gruppo Mezzacorona.) The implication was clear; Mezzacorona possesses deep pockets since the company controls one-third of the production in Trento and sells surplus grapes to other producers.

And what about the wines?
1432227244Stemmari Dalila NV Bottle
Of the 11 products in the Stemmari roster, nine are 100 percent varietal and two are blends. The indigenous grapes grillo and moscato, for white, and nero d’avola, for red, are made as varietal wines and also blended into the proprietary Dalila (80 percent grillo, 20 percent viognier) and Cantodoro (80 percent nero d’avola, 20 percent cabernet sauvignon). The “international” grape varieties pinot grigio, chardonnay, pinot noir — which Matricardi called “the mother-in-law” grape for its difficulty — and cabernet sauvignon are also made into 100 percent varietal wines. Nero d’avola, in addition, is made into a rose. The use of oak barrels, for the chardonnay and the red wines, is discreet.

As I mentioned, the Stemmari products are designed to sell inexpensively, that is, for about $10 and can be found throughout the country priced from about $9 to $12. Within that range, these are bargains. In fact, I’ll go farther and say that the Stemmari Pinot Noir, stamped with varietal and geographic clarity, ranks among the best moderately priced pinot noirs available in America, followed, in my estimation, by the robust, earthy Nero d’Avola and the charming, fruit-filled Dalila. Stemmari fashions grillo grapes into the delicate, slightly effervescent, wildly floral Baci Vivaci, a delightful quaff our group must have consumed gallons of with our meals. These are not wines intended for the ages or to compete with the world’s prestigious labels. They are, instead, wines made thoughtfully and seriously and offered at a more than decent price.

The dominant force in Sicilian cuisine, not surprisingly, is the sea. Every meal consists of a procession of crustaceans and fish prepared by different methods, though often served raw and lightly dressed. The famous deep-water red shrimp — Aristaeomorpha foliacea— make a regular appearance at the beginning of lunch and dinner, the tiny fire-engine-hued crustaceans bathed in olive oil and lemon juice and eaten au natural. Grilled octopus is a requirement, sometimes accompanied by white beans. Grilled or seared fish are presented simply, straight from the fire or the saute pan, keeping them as fresh as possible. Pasta dishes tend to have a seafood component, sea urchin being a favorite ingredient.

Our introduction to Sicilian fare was dinner at Restaurant Porto San Paolo, located in a 400-year-old fortified tower that looms over ristorante_da_vittorio_porto_palo_1E3-600x300 the harbor of the town of Sciacca, on the island’s southwest coast. Our table on a second-floor balcony gave us a wonderful view of the fishing boats tied up at twilight and the vista of clouds at dusk. Lunch the next day was at the beautiful Da Vittorio Restaurant in Porto Palo di Menfi. It’s a beach-front establishment that allows a breathtaking panorama of the aquamarine Mediterranean, just beyond the windows. (That’s their red shrimp in the image above.) The food here seemed incredibly fresh and briny, deeply flavorful and handled with minimum interference in the kitchen. Our final dinner was in Palermo, at the chic and sleek one Michelin Star Restaurant Bye Bye Blues, where the chef, Patrizia Di Benedetto, a native of Palermo, prepares elevated and imaginative versions of the island’s traditional cuisine.

Here are the websites of these restaurants, all of which I would return to in a heartbeat:

http://www.ristoranteportosanpaolo.it/en/

http://www.ristorantevittorio.it/

http://www.byebyeblues.it/

Made from free-run juice of early-picked grapes, all in stainless steel, the Pedroncelli Dry Rosé of Zinfandel 2016, Dry Creek Valley, PRT_ZR0162_PRTSMALLPIC_20170131_161452sports a lovely coral-pink hue and enticing aromas of Rainier cherry and tomato skin, rose petals and orange rind, over hints of dried thyme and a faint briery aspect. It’s a ripe and slightly fleshy rosé, though quite dry on the palate and bright with snappy acidity. A few moments in the glass bring out notes of watermelon, pomegranate and graphite. Really attractive presence with a feeling for the ethereal. 13.7 percent alcohol for easy drinking, now through the end of 2017. Production was 2,100 cases. Very Good+. About $15, marking Good Value.

A sample for review.

Settling down to a lunch of duck and rabbit terrine, perhaps? A lamb chop? A roasted game bird? Or maybe just a plate of perfect cheese GD_Domaine_Moulin_A_Vent_De_La_Vigne_Romaine-LABELtoast? (The latter more likely, of course.) Open a bottle of the Domaine de la Vigne Romaine Moulin-a-Vent 2015, from the ubiquitous Beaujolais producer George Duboeuf. Made in a small quantity from gamay vines that average 50 years old, this A.O.C. Cru Beaujolais aged eight months in a combination of stainless steel tanks and one-year-old French oak casks; no new wood, no small barrels. The color is a riveting opaque blue-black-violet that displays a glowing rim; it’s pure gamay in its pungent aromas of blackberries and black currants etched by cloves, smoke and graphite, with a special ripeness of raspberries and mulberries in the depths. Give the wine a few minutes and it conjures notes of tar and forest, lavender and black cherry licorice, all encompassed in a lithe, silky texture and dry, slightly raspy tannins. Frankly, a joy to drink now but a wine that will benefit from a brief hibernation, say until 2018 or ’20 through 2024 or ’25. Production was 300 cases. Excellent. About $25.

Imported by Quintessential, Napa, Calif. A sample for review.

Most wine consumers probably understand that when a label states “Napa Valley” or “Mendocino County” or “Finger Lakes Region,” that the wine in the bottle came primarily from the stated regions. A certain comfort level of consumer-friendliness is involved.

Not that I’m being extra-patriotic, especially in these fraught times, but “America” or “American” can be listed on a wine label as the varaplace of origin of the product in the bottle, though we don’t see it often. Not that the country that lies between two shining seas is an American Viticultural Area (AVA), the delineated wine regions regulated by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB), a division of the Department of the Treasury; it’s too vast for that distinction. AVAs must have, theoretically, some sort of geological, geographical, climatic and historical coherence. I say “theoretically” because not all AVAs seem to benefit from a logical approach and feel quite obviously geared more to marketing purposes than any guidance for consumers. An example is the vast San Francisco Bay AVA, approved in 1999, amended in 2006, and apparently designed to appeal to fans of Tony Bennett.

But let’s get back to America, so to speak, by taking a look at the bottle I present here. This is the Vara Wines Tinto Especial Lot #012, American Table Wine. Notice a few peculiarities. First, there’s no vintage date. Second, in a wine culture that emphasizes the grapes that wines are made from, there’s no mention here of grape varieties, at least not in the leading position. And third, there’s that “American Table Wine” designation.

According to TTB regulations, wines made from cross-state grape origins — that is, the grapes derive from two or more states — have to be termed “American.” And in that circumstance, no vintage dates are allowed on labels, though in this case, the legend “Lot #012” gives away the mystery; the year was 2012. The reason why the wine does not display a prominent mention of a grape is because the primary variety here, tempranillo, is only 62 percent of the blend. To be featured as a sort of branding device, a wine under the “American,” or a broad state-wide designation, must contain at least 75 percent of that variety. Vara Wines doesn’t tell us what states the grapes derive from — not even on the winery’s website — but we do know what the blend is, as stated on the label in small print: 60 percent tempranillo, 28 percent garnacha, 7 percent syrah and 5 percent monastrell (mourvedre). In other words, the wine aims to be an approximation of a Spanish red, an appropriate stance since Vara is the importing and production arm of The International Brand Family of Spanish and American Wines Commemorating Native American and New World History, based in Albuquerque. The cross-state situation becomes more ambiguous, however, when we consider that a few AVAs actually cross the borders of two states, like the Walla Walla AVA in Washington and Oregon.

The wine in question, a sample for review, features a transparent medium ruby hue and pungent aromas of dried red berries, dried Mediterranean herbs and flowers, with emphasis on cherries and currant, cloves and thyme and notes of violets and lilacs; touches of iodine and graphite, leather and loam add depth, while vivid acidity and dusty, slightly shaggy tannins lend depth. 13.5 percent alcohol. Very Good+. About $24.

This post is the first in an occasional series about the regulations that govern the production of wine in America.

62900001415_bottle
It’s a gorgeous Spring day here in the Mid-South, and pretty mild elsewhere in our nation, except for California, now enduring a Weather Apocalypse, and we hope all our friends out there stay safe. And if you wonder about the origin of the term “Mid-South,” it was coined in the 1920s — so I heard at a lecture once — by an editor at The Commercial Appeal to define the newspaper’s circulation area: West Tennessee, northern Mississippi, eastern Arkansas and the Missouri Bootheel. Now you know. Anyway, if you’re planning to enjoy this great day by kicking back after work and sitting out on the porch or patio or high on an apartment balcony, or if your plans for the weekend include a picnic or some other bucolic expedition to the bosky groves or warm sands, here’s the wine for you. The Pratsch Grüner Veltliner 2015, made by Stefan Pratsch in Austria’s Niederösterreich wine region, is certified organic and produced all in stainless steel tanks at low temperatures to retain freshness and immediate appeal. The color is very pale straw-gold; the wine features what I think of as the primary characteristics of this grape, a kind of white pepper-hay-and-heather highlighting of spiced pear and roasted lemon elements with a dim back-note of quince and ginger, all abetted by crisp acidity and a fledgling flinty-limestone edge. Readers, that’s it, and what more do you need when you’re chilling with family and friends being all familial and friendly and what not? Oh, this would be tasty with seafood-based appetizers and tapas or just as a very pleasant quaff. 12 percent alcohol. Very Good+. And the price? About $14, for a one-liter bottle, representing Good Value.

Imported by Winesellers Ltd, Niles, Ill. A sample for review.

A rosé wine can be made in one of three ways. First, mix red and white wine, just a touch of red. Voila, it’s pink! Generally, this method is avoided in making still rosés, and in fact is primarily used in the production of brut rosé Champagne and sparkling wines. Second, and endless crushmost common, is maceration, in which the skins of red grapes macerate with the juice for a brief period, usually two to 20 hours, and then the juice is removed from the vats when the desired lightness or depth of hue and flavor is reached. (The color of red wine, whether medium ruby or motor-oil purple, derives from the skins; grape juice itself has no or little color.) Third is saignée, a French term meaning “to bleed.” The process involves siphoning or “bleeding off” some of the juice from the macerating tanks before it becomes too dark, a step that helps concentrate the “real” wine as well as produce a rosé. The rosé wine considered today was made by maceration of grapes grown especially for this wine, not as an after-thought or coincidental product bled off from a more important wine. The Inman Family “Endless Crush” Rosé of Pinot Noir 2016, Russian River Valley, was made from organic grapes grown in the winery’s Olivet Grange vineyard and picked in August last year. After a few months in stainless steel tanks, the wine was bottled on December 7, making it all of about six months old. The color is very pale petal pink; oh, this is a delicate and ethereal wreathing of strawberries, red currants and watermelon that opens to a fine web of honeysuckle and lilac, orange rind and grapefruit, all encompassed by a slightly earthy undertone of damp and slightly dusty tiles and river stones. Tensile strength emerges with the wine’s bright, lip-smacking acidity and mouth-watering juiciness and the contrast between its crisp nature and an almost lush texture. 11.9 percent alcohol. Drink through the end of 2017. Production was 672 cases, and it goes fast. A superior rosé wine that feels like a kiss from Spring and a caress from Summer. Exceptional. About $35.

A sample for review.

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