O.K., not a totally A to Z line, but the roster for today’s Weekend Wine Notes runs from albariño to zinfandel, with several alphabetical stops between those points, nine of them including a couple of real bargains, though all represent good value. As usual in these Weekend Wine Notes, I eschew the plethora of technical, historical, geographical and personnel data that we dote upon so dearly for the sake of quick and incisive reviews intended to pique your interest and whet your palate. Enjoy!

With one exception, these wines were samples for review.
Arios Albariño 2014, Rias Baixas, Spain. 12.5% alc. Pale pale straw-gold hue; roasted lemons and ariospears, dried thyme and heather, white flowers and a touch of flint; very dry, scintillating with pert acidity and a brisk limestone element; lovely lemon and peach flavors, lightly glossed with cloves and honey. Super attractive and eminently drinkable. Very Good+. About $15.
FEL Wines Chardonnay 2014, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County. 14.2% alc. Pale gold color; FEL-Logo_850x500roasted lemon, lemon drop, pineapple and grapefruit; beguiling notes of jasmine and gardenia, quince and ginger, with flint in the background; marked purity and intensity, vibrant and resonant with keen acidity and limestone and chalk minerality, yet seductive in its supple, talc-like texture that laves the palate; ripe citrus flavors with a touch of baked stone-fruit; a beautifully shaped, high-minded and crystalline chardonnay, for drinking through 2018 to 2020. Excellent. About $28.
Vento di Mare Nerello Mascalese 2013, Terre Siciliane. 13% alc. Deep ruby-purple; robust and CMYK basehearty, featuring intense aromas of violets and lavender, dark spicy cherries, with something of cherry skin and pit pungency and bitterness; plums and currants; leafy, woodsy notes of cedar and dried rosemary, with the latter’s characteristic resinous nature; shaggy tannins, dense and chewy; penetrating acidity and granitic minerality. Perfect for full-flavored pizzas and pasta dishes, burgers with bacon and cheddar cheese, grilled pork chops with a Southwestern rub; you get the idea. Very Good+. About $12, so Buy It by the Case.
Imported by Middleton Family Wines, Shandon, Calif.
Giesen The Brothers Pinot Noir 2013, Marlborough, New Zealand. 14.5% alc. 500 cases imported. Medium transparent ruby color; ferrous and sanguinary, with notes of iodine and mint, pomegranate and cranberry, baked cherries and raspberries; deep and warm, spicy and savory; a definite foresty element animated by fleet acidity; fairly tannic for a pinot noir, dusty and almost velvety, but reigned in by sleek elegance; polished oak stays in the background, giving the wine shape and suppleness. Drink through 2019 to ’21. Excellent. About $30.
Imported by Constellation Brands, Gonzales, Calif.
Two Shepherds Pastoral Rouge 2012, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County. 12.5% alc. 45% grenache, 30% mourvedre, 25% syrah. Production was 200 cases. Medium ruby hue shading to garnet; smoked plums, bruised raspberries and a touch of blueberry, hints of red licorice, leather and loam; slightly spicy and tea-like, meaning black tea; lithe and expressive on the palate, very clean, a bit chiseled in its graphite-tinged minerality and lightly dusted tannins that take on more heft through the finish; a southern Rhône-style blend that’s elevating and balletic rather than dense and earth-bound; “pastoral,” indeed, in its irresistible, meadowy appeal to life and eating and drinking al fresco. Drink through 2018 to 2020. Excellent. About $36.
La Domitienne Rosé 2015, Vin de Pays d’Oc, France. 12.5% alc. 50% each cinsault and grenache. Pale la_domitienne_rose_GWP_2015_label-no-guidescopper-onion skin color; delicate and slightly leafy strawberry and raspberry scents and flavors, though it’s a wild and bosky rosé, suave and fairly robust, savory and saline, dry and flinty, and lively in its bright acidity. A real thirst-quencher, with surprising complexity for the price. Very Good+. About $10, a Raving Bargain.
Imported by Guarachi Wine Partners, Woodland, Calif.
Star Lane Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara County. NA% alc. Pale straw-gold hue; star-like clarity of grapefruit, lime peel and papaya, with spiced pear and hints of lemongrass and lilac; bright acidity paired with clean limestone-flint minerality, yet a fairly earthy sauvignon blanc, with seeming connections to the loamy soil from which it sprang. Now through 2017 or ’18. Very Good+. About $22.
Illahe Viognier 2015, Willamette Valley, Oregon. 12.5% alc. Very pale gold hue; jasmine and gardenia, pears and green apples, hints of lanolin and bee’s-wax; very dry, spare, but with a ravishing silken texture and flavors of lightly spiced and macerated pear and peach; crystalline acidity and a hint of a limestone edge, leading to a touch of grapefruit on the finish. Really lovely. Excellent. About $17. (A local purchase at $20.)
Dry Creek Vineyards Heritage Vines Zinfandel 2014, Sonoma County. 14.5% alc. 78% zinfandel, 20 2014_Heritage_label_rgbpercent petite sirah, 1% each primitivo and carignan. Dark ruby; blackberries, currents and plums, notes of cloves and black pepper, orange rind and oolong tea; quite dry, an evocative woodsy zinfandel, seething with briers and brambles, a hint of damp leaves, supported by dusty, graphite-tinged tannins and lip-smacking acidity; a supple, spice-laden finish. gratifyingly balanced and layered for drinking through 2019 or 2020. Excellent. About $22.

Maryhill Winery occupies part of the site of the farming community instituted along the northern bank of the Columbia River beginning in 1907 by Sam Hill (1857-1931), a legendary settler in 2015_Rose_FrontWashington state who was an attorney, entrepreneur and advocate of good roads. One can see his visionary prowess (and eccentricity) in two monuments he was instrumental in building, the replica of Stonehenge at Maryhill, a memorial to fallen World War I soldiers from Klickitat County, and the Peace Arch that stands at the border between Blaine, Washington, and Surrey, British Columbia. If we move forward in time to 1999, we find Craig and Vicki Leuthold buying property in the area, followed by the founding of the winery in 2001. And if we move forward to today, well, I’m writing this post about the Maryhill Rosé of Sangiovese 2015, Columbia Valley. The color is a bright salmon-peach hue; aromas of ripe and fleshy strawberries and raspberries are tinged with melon and peach, with hints of tomato skin, cloves and some exotic bloomy white flower. This is fairly robust for a rosé, and it reflects its grape in elements of orange zest, black tea and cranberry, all elevated by riveting acidity and the bass-notes of graphite-flecked earthiness on the finish. I don’t mean to emphasize the wine’s size and substance; this is still a rosé that abounds in freshness and immediate appeal. 12.9 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2017 with flavorful picnic fare. Excellent. About $16, marking Good Value.

A sample for review.

I know too well what you expect from sauvignon blancs originating in New Zealand. Sporting penetrating aromas of lime peel, grapefruit, pea shoot and, particularly, jazzed-up gooseberry, assaulting the nostrils and clearing the sinuses, these wines were all the rage five and 10 years ago. Matters have Capture0009calmed down more recently, in many cases anyway, and while I assume that most New Zealand sauvignon blanc wines will still be fairly bright and bold, I also assume that the effect will be more modulated. That’s certainly the case with the beautifully balanced Giesen “The Brothers” Sauvignon Blanc 2014, from the island nation’s well-known Marlborough wine region. The wine fermented and aged in a combination of stainless steel tanks, large German oak casks and smaller French barriques, with new oak only seven percent. (Winemaker was Andrew Blake.) The color is very pale straw-gold; clean-cut aromas of green apple, lime peel and grapefruit, with beguiling notes of jasmine, briers and flinty, piquant gooseberry, are permeated by an element of talc and graphite and just a hint of smoke and mango. It’s lithe and supple on the palate, vivid with acidity and a scintillating limestone-chalk quality; taste-wise, a few moments in the glass bring in touches of peach and roasted fennel to the citrus, pear and lime flavors. The finish steps up the effect of limestone and brisk, bracing grapefruit bitterness. Very lively tone and presence. The alcohol level is a sensible 12.6 percent. Drink now through 2018 or ’19 with fresh oysters, grilled mussels, shrimp salad, trout amandine or as a snappy aperitif. Excellent. About $20, marking Great Value.

Imported by Pacific Highway Wine & Spirits, Petaluma, Calif. A sample for review.

I have long been a fan of the pinor noir wines from Pfendler Vineyards, a small producer located in the Petaluma Gap area of the Sonoma Coast AVA. I rated the 2010 and 2012 Exceptional and the 2013 Excellent; all appeared on the list of “50 Great Wines” of the appropriate review year. Oddly, though, the only chardonnay I have written about from Pfendler is the 2010. Here is that mention, in the Weekend Wine post for March 22, 2013:

Pfendler Chardonnay 2010, Sonoma Coast. 13.5% alc. 250 cases. Medium straw-gold color; bold and rich but not creamy or tropical; well-integrated flavors of pineapple and grapefruit infused with ginger and quince and a hint of peach; very dry but really lovely, elevating and balletic; oak comes through from mid-palate back, yet the whole package reflects a hands-off approach; final touch of jasmine and roasted hazelnuts. Now through 2015 or ’16. Excellent. About $38.

The key to the wine seems to be a sense of risk — “bold and rich,” “oak comes through from mid-palate back” — combined with an effort toward elegance and balance. I wish I could say the same for the version under review today.
I don’t know if the oak regimen at Pfendler changed recently; the winery’s website is still on pfendler chard2013. It seems to me that winemaker Greg Bjornstad has always favored a hands-off approach, though the Pfendler Chardonnay 2014, Sonoma Coast, exhibits a strangely marked presence of wood. The color is bright medium straw-gold, and the initial aromas consist of attractive notes of green apple, grapefruit and pineapple tinged with fresh coconut and lemongrass. A few minutes in the glass, however, bring in touches of oak-influenced toffee and burnt-match, and on the palate the wine displays a stridently spicy character that leads to an astringent finish. No balance or elegance here. 14.1 percent alcohol. Production was 400 cases. Not recommended. About $38.
No such worries about the Pfendler Pinot Noir 2014, Sonoma Coast, an exemplar from beginning to pfendler pinotend. The color is an entrancing transparent medium cranberry-mulberry hue shading to an invisible rim; I could read my handwritten notes through this wine. It’s a bosky pinot noir that offers notes of foresty herbs and flowers, briers, brambles and loam, all to support scents and flavors of ripe and dried black cherries with currant and plum undertones; as the moments pass, this wine develops hints of cloves and rhubarb, lilac and rose petals. Bright acidity cuts a swath through a super-satiny texture, serving as counterpoint to elements of graphite and mildly dusty tannins; plenty of lithe, supple structure here, but not at the expense of generous fruit flavors or a mineral-flecked finish. 14.2 percent alcohol. Production was 400 cases. Drink now through 2020 to ’22 with roasted chicken, pork tenderloin, rabbit and duck terrine. Excellent. About $45.
These wines were samples for review.

The sort of zinfandel I dote upon is one that expresses, either forthrightly or eloquently, the character of the grape without the hyperbole of over-ripeness, strident spicy qualities, tough tannins and the fatal sweet heatedness of high alcohol. We often find those kinds of zinfandels in Lodi, where the wines typically soar above 15 percent alcohol, but a model much more balanced is the Oak Farm Vineyards “Indigenous” Cemetery Vineyard Zinfandel 2014, Lodi, which clocks in at a mild and sensible 13.5 percent alcohol. The color is deep ruby with a glowing magenta rim; aromas of ripe blackberries and black currants are highlighted by notes of blueberries, cloves, briers and brambles and touches of fruitcake and iodine. Dusty tannins display a honed graphite edge, and indeed this zinfandel, while being warm and spicy and tasty with its black and blue fruit flavors, exudes the coolness of chiseled limestone, wrapped around an animated core of vibrant acidity and hints of lavender, leather and loam. Drink now through 2019 to ’21 with steaks or burgers, grilled pork chops, chili, hearty pastas and pizzas. Production was 361 cases. Excellent. About $32.

A sample for review.

Both the Cune Rosado 2015 and the Viña Real Rosado 2015, from Spain’s Rioja region, were made by CVNE — that is, Compañia Vinicola del Norte de España — also known as Cune, and each two rosespronounced “coo-nay.” (The company was founded in 1879 by brothers Eusebio and Raimundo Real de Asua and is operated today by their direct descendants.) What accounts for the difference in color between the two rosé wines, that is between the bright cherry-berry color of the Cune Rosado ’15 and the pale slightly pink onion skin hue of the Viña Real Rosado ’15? The first was made from 100 percent red tempranillo grapes; the second is a blend of 85 percent white viura grapes and 15 percent tempranillo. Now if you’re like me, you’ll be a bit skeptical about calling a wine rosé when it’s composed of 85 percent white grapes. I mean, that seems like cheating, though according to extremely complicated EU regulations and their arcane terminology, it is permissible to make a rosé wine by blending red and white grapes or wines.

What are these contrasting rosé wines like?

The Cune Rosado 2015, Rioja, whose color is a striking bright scarlet with a pink-orange blush, offers aromas of pure strawberry, raspberry and cherry with tinges of melon and violets. It’s wonderfully fresh, like raindrops on roses, but it’s also almost robust, offering real body and even touches of slightly dusty tannins and a saline-mineral edge. None of these structural matters detract from and indeed provide a hint of ballast for delicious red berry flavors and an aura of summery fruit macerated in Mediterranean herbs. 13.7 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2017. Very Good+. About $13, marking Excellent Value.

The Viña Real Rosado 2015, Rioja, is an altogether different construct. The color is very pale onion skin with a faint pink cast; the bouquet offers delicate tissues of peaches and Rainier cherries, lilac and thyme, with back-notes of rose petals and damp and dusty roof tiles. Ethereal on the palate, this rosé nonetheless delivers pulsing acidity and a subtle but scintillating chalky-flint element for tensile strength. Primarily, though, the impression is of something exquisite and gauzy, an adjunct to progressive heat and refreshing breezes. 13 percent alcohol. Drink now through the end of 2016. Very Good+. About $15.

Imported by Europvin USA. Samples for review.

Not every wine needs to be profound, protean, fathomless and brooding, as I have asserted many times and will probably do so many more times before I shuffle off to Buffalo, a ditty that has, by the way, been looping through the convoluted canyons of my mind for several days. (Why do these things occur? I haven’t seen “42nd Street” since I was a mere lad innocent of the vine.) Anyway, often all we require of a wine is that it offer enough character that our noses lab_Carmenere_piu.pngand palates perk up and the flavors and body to go with whatever we’re eating at the moment. Such a one that fulfills these obligations and more is the Inama Carmenere Puì… 2013, from the Colli Berici wine region of the Veneto. The wine is classified, in fact, as a Veneto Rosso, being composed of 70 percent carmenere grapes and 30 percent merlot. It aged 12 months in second-use French barriques. For those of you who believe that the carmenere grape is exclusive to Chile, remember that it was grown in Europe first, before migrating to South America, where for decades people thought it was merlot. C’est la vie! The Inama Carmenere Puì… 2013 sports a dark ruby robe and a bright, ripe and engaging bouquet of black and red cherries and currants buoyed by notes of bitter chocolate, tapenade and rosemary, with a bit of that herb’s dry, resinous power. It’s robust without being rustic, amply furnished with vibrant acidity and dry, slightly dusty, mineral-flecked tannins and displaying plenty of spicy black fruit flavors. The tannic influence increases as the minutes pass, contributing to a finish that feels a bit austere. 13.5 percent alcohol. If you’re firing up the grill, consider this wine with leg of lamb studded with rosemary and garlic; pork chops crusted with a Southwestern rub; or, as we employed it, with baked ziti. Drink now through 2018 to 2020. Very Good+. About $20.

Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, Calif. A sample for review.

The Rodney Strong Vineyards Chalk Hill Chardonnay 2014, Sonoma County, was fermented and then aged 12 months in new and used French oak barrels, except for three percent; that dollop went chalk hill chardinto stainless steel. Whatever the effect of wood and stainless steel on the wine was, it’s a chardonnay of lovely balance and integration that offers surprising depth and dimension for the price. The color is palest gold; aromas of pineapple and grapefruit, lime peel, quince and pear assert themselves with crystalline purity and intensity, adding, as moments pass, layers of limestone and flint minerality. The wine flows across the palate in a winsome blend of moderate lushness and pert acidity, poised between elegance and energy; ripe citrus and stone-fruit flavors are imbued with notes of cloves, limestone and heather, the latter tone opening to a authoritative finish that brings in a slightly earthy quality and a tinge of grapefruit bitterness. 14.5 percent alcohol. Winemakers were Rick Sayre and Justin Seidenfeld. Drink now through 2018 or ’19. You could sell the hell out of this chardonnay in bar and restaurant by-the-glass programs. Excellent. About $22, representing Good Value.

A sample for review.

It’s warm and humid in our neck o’ the woods. Perfect time to open a bottle of a rosé wine bhrose2015lthat’s perhaps a bit more robust than most of that genre, though balanced by fine detail and a sense of cleanly-etched delicacy. The Domaine Bila-Haut “Les Vignes” Rosé 2015, from France’s vast Pays d’Oc region, is a blend of 55 percent grenache grapes and 45 percent syrah. The color is pale salmon-pink, and aromas of strawberries and peaches, cloves and ginger and macerated raspberries are tinged with orange zest and rose petals; a few minutes in the glass bring out notes of tomato skin and dried thyme. The wine flows across the palate is lithe, pert fashion, propelled by bright acidity and a touch of scintillating flint-like minerality; it’s quite dry, very tasty in its red berry fruit traced with light citrus, and nicely poised between moderate lushness and elegant spareness. 13 percent alcohol. Drink into 2017 — it has the structural chops to age a year or so — with all sorts of patio and picnic fare. Excellent. About $15, representing True Value.

An R. Shack Selection for HB Wine Merchants, New York. A sample for review.

The history of Byron Vineyards and Winery is as Byzantine as any of the wineries in a state where convoluted narratives of origins, founders, failures, buy-outs, consolidation and recovery SBCare common. It’s too easy to say that Byron Ken Brown founded his winery in the eastern reaches of Santa Barbara County’s Santa Maria Valley in 1984. We have to go back to 1964, when Uriel Nielson planted the first commercial vineyard in Santa Barbara County, in an area considered too cool to grow grapes. Brown, the first winemaker at Zaca Mesa (for six vintages), purchased the Nielson Vineyard in 1989, and it became his estate vineyard. The people at Robert Mondavi Winery were impressed by the quality of Byron’s wines — mostly chardonnay and pinot noir — with the result that Mondavi bought the winery in 1990, retaining Ken Brown as winemaker. Such was the new owner’s faith in Byron’s potential that in 1995, Mondavi financed the creation of a technically advanced 32,000-square-foot winery.

O.K., now, when Constellation bought Robert Mondavi Winery in 2004 for $1 billion, the giant drinks company signaled that it would divest itself of Mondavi’s individual winery properties, selling Byron to Legacy Estates Group, founded in 2000 by brothers Calvin and Dev Sidhu. Legacy had purchased Freemark Abbey in 2001 and followed with Arrowood and Byron in 2005, purchased for $40 million from Constellation. Eight months later, Legacy filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy. Waiting in the wings was Jess Jackson, founder of Kendall-Jackson and owner, with his wife Barbara Banke, of Jackson Family Wines. He acquired Legacy for $97 million, and it’s with Jackson Family Wines that Freemark Abbey, Arrowood and Byron remain. Byron, not coincidentally, lies next to JFW’s Cambria Estate, and Byron winemaker Jonathan Nagy produces pinot noir from Cambria’s Julia’s Vineyard (see review below). Nagy came to Byron in 2001 as assistant winemaker and became director of winemaking there in 2003.

The four pinot noirs under review today from single vineyards in Santa Maria Valley. Byron also makes pinot noir and chardonnay from vineyards in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, southeast of Santa Maria in the Santa Ynez Valley. While this quartet offers differing quotients of detail and dimension, the wines feature a similarity of seductive fruity, floral and spicy bouquets; dense enveloping textures; and loamy, slightly granitic earthiness and minerality.

These wines were samples for review. Map of Santa Barbara County AVAs from sbcountywines.com.
At about 1,750 cases, the Byron Winery Nielson Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013, Santa Maria ECM306808Valley, offers by far the largest production of these four single-vineyard wines. The south-facing vineyard lies 18 miles from the coast, some 500 to 800 feet above sea level, on benchland overlooking the Santa Maria River. The site contains a mixture of alluvial, decomposing rock and older soils that have washed down from the foothills to the north. Nielson is the warmest of Byron’s vineyards in the valley, though still quite cool. The wine aged approximately 16 months in French oak, 35 percent new barrels.

The color is a beautiful medium ruby shading to transparent magenta; aromas of ripe black cherries, raspberries and plums are permeated by hints of cloves, sassafras and rhubarb, with high notes of rose petals and lilac. This is a sultry and satiny pinot noir, deeply spicy and almost luxuriously textured, though cut by vivid acidity and a tinge of slightly dusty tannins. The black fruit flavors are bolstered by an intense core of lavender, licorice and bitter chocolate, while a few minutes in the glass bring out elements of mint and talc. 14.5 percent alcohol. Lovely dimension and detail. Drink now through 2018 to 2020. Excellent. About $45.
Planted in 1974, the well-known Sierra Madre Vineyard, the coolest of Byron’s Santa Maria Valley sites, sits 10 miles from the Pacific at about 215 feet elevation. The environment is the sort of poor, sandy-loamy soil that forces vines to search deeply for water and nutrients. No pain, no gain, n’est-ce pas? The Byron Sierra Madre Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013, Santa Maria Valley, aged about 16 months in French oak, 31 percent new barrels.

The color is a beguiling medium transparent ruby-mulberry hue; it’s a dark and slightly brooding pinot noir, pungent with cloves, sassafras and beetroot, smoky black cherries, and notes of violets, lavender and graphite. On the palate, it feels burnished, polished and sleek, flowing across the tongue in a sensuous satiny fashion, though it develops a serious loamy-musky-graphite element that speaks of profound depths and roots in the earth. 13.8 percent alcohol. Production was 225 cases. Now through 2020 to ’23. Excellent. About $45.
Julia’s Vineyard encompasses some of the oldest pinot noir vines in Santa Barbara County, having been planted in 1970 and 1971. The location is two miles west of the Nielson Vineyard, situated at 500 feet elevation and running east-west. The soil is poor sandy limestone, requiring hard work on the part of the vines. The Byron Julia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013, Santa Maria Valley, aged about 16 months in French oak, 39 percent new barrels. An entrancing transparent medium ruby hue shades to an invisible rim; you would be hard-pressed not to love this bouquet that seethes with smoky black cherries and currants imbued with hints of cedar and cloves, sage, rose petals and lilac, flint and graphite and revealing poignant notes of rhubarb and pomegranate. Totally seductive in its lovely weight and viscosity, uttering beguiling in its nuance and detail (and spicy black fruit flavors tinged with blue), this pinot noir does not neglect the structural elements of clean, bright acidity or an almost subliminal tannic edge etched with flint-like minerality. 14.4 percent alcohol. Production was 115 cases. Prodigiously satisfying. Now through 2021 through 2024. Excellent. About $45.
The Byron Monument Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013, Santa Maria Valley, is composed of grapes chosen from the best blocks of the winery’s estate Nielson Vineyard. The wine aged about 16 months in French oak, 78 percent new barrels. A transparent medium ruby hue shades to an ephemeral magenta rim; aromas of black cherries steeped in oolong tea, notes of rhubarb and cola, cloves, an aura like clean linens snapping in an urgent breeze, fresh and dried fruit and flowers — all contribute to a wonderfully layered and appealing bouquet. The wine is dark and spicy on the palate, woodsy and loamy, dense and chewy, yet it displays ineffable delicacy and elegance despite its size and presence. It’s vivid and vital, a pinot noir whose languid satiny drape on the tongue belies its energy and elan. 14.1 percent alcohol. Production was 120 cases. Excellent. About $65.

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