Fri 5 Jun 2015
Grenache gris is a rare gray-skinned manifestation of the grenache grape, somewhere between “regular” dark grenache and the green grenache blanc. William Allen makes his Two Shepherds Gibson Ranch Grenache Gris 2013 from a 105-year-old vineyard in Mendocino County. It is fermented and aged nine months in neutral French oak, meaning that there’s no interference of toasty new oak with the wine’s purity and intensity, rather a contributing factor of shapeliness and subtlety. The color is pale but radiant gold with a tinge of topaz; an intoxicating bouquet of lilac and camellia, peach and spiced pear, quince and crystallized ginger is wreathed with notes of lemongrass and lime peel. The wine is vital and vivid on the palate, yet spare, delicate and elegant; on the other hand, it’s remarkably intense, displaying real presence without being heavy or obvious; it’s engaging, not obtrusive. Flavors are yellow and green fruit — citrus and stone-fruit and a touch of yellow plum — highlighted by a leafy, bracing savory, saline quality and a finish that brings in touches of grapefruit rind and almond skin. 13.2 percent alcohol. Only 90 cases produced, so mark this one Worth a Search. Drink through 2016 with grilled shrimp, seafood risotto, grilled trout with capers. Excellent. About $28.
A sample for review.