If you’re looking for a classic Chianti that’s not pumped up with toasty new oak and the vanilla and spice accents of French barriques, a Chianti that’s not lush and over-extracted, a Chianti chiantimade with traditional grapes and in traditional methods, well, this is your lucky day. The Selvapiana Chianti Rufina 2013 is a blend of 95 percent sangiovese grapes with five percent canaiolo, colorino and malvasia nera — no merlot! no cabernet sauvignon! — that ages in large oak casks of 25 and 30 hectoliters, that is, 660.4 and 792.5 gallons respectively. A barrique holds about 59 gallons, meaning that there’s more wood influence on the wine it contains. The color is a lovely transparent medium ruby-garnet hue; aromas of dried raspberries and cranberries are inflected with notes of orange zest, oolong tea, dried thyme and graphite, that after a few moments open to hints of rose petals and violets. The wine is quite dry, with a spare, honed texture that supports flavors of red raspberries and cherries offering a hint of cloves and almond skin against a light background of dusty tannins that do, however, dig deeply into the wine’s structure. 13 percent alcohol. The family-owned estate goes back five generations and almost 200 years. Chianti Rufina is the smallest wine-producing entity of Tuscany’s Chianti region, but probably the best-known of the sub-zones. It is also not contiguous with the rest of Chianti or Chianti Classico, lying to the east of Florence in an area singled out for mention by Cosimo III Grand Duke of Florence in his edict of 1716 as one of the zones of superior production. Shielded by the Apennines to the north but accessible to a maritime breeze, Rufina is cooler than the areas of “regular” Chianti to the west. Drink now through 2019 to ’21 with red meat or tomato-based pasta dishes and pizzas, roasted veal shoulder or pork tenderloin. Excellent. About $17, representing Good Value.

Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, Calif. A sample for review.

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Oak Farm Vineyards occupies the former estate of William Devries, who purchased the property in 1860, built a colonial-style mansion in 1876 and became a justice of the peace in addition to being a well-known wheat-farmer and raiser of cattle. He was, in others words, a force to reckon with in Lodi. Many of the original oak trees he planted still stand, as well as the restored house. Oak Farm Vineyards produces primarily red wines, which I’ll mention in a later post, but its albariño should not be missed. Deriving from the Silvaspoons Vineyard in Lodi’s Alta Mesa sub-AVA and the Wetmore Vineyard in the Jahant sub-AVA, the Oak Farm Albariño 2015, Lodi, made completely in stainless steel, displays a pale straw gold hue and enticing aromas of spiced pears and roasted lemons, heather and dried thyme, jasmine, almond skin and acacia flower. It’s a dry wine, wonderfully fresh and appealing, lively and engaging, but showing some of the grape’s slightly bristly, dusty limestone and flint character under tasty stone-fruit flavors, all buoyed by bright acidity. The whole package is extremely attractive. 13 percent alcohol. Drink through 2017 as aperitif or with seafood risottos, grilled fish or fresh oysters. Production was 410 cases. Excellent. About $19.

A sample for review.

The Alois Lageder Porer Pinot Grigio 2014, Sudtirol-Alto Adige, is to most pinot grigio wines as porer_labela Maserati is to a Ford Focus. Made from Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards, the wine aged five months in a mixture of large old wooden casks and stainless steel tanks. The result is a pale gold-colored wine that exudes lovely aromas of spiced pear and roasted lemon, straw and heather, acacia and dried thyme, a wine of yellow flowers and yellow fruit, ripe and fleshy. On the palate, this is dry, spare, saline and savory, feeling as if it draws power from the limestone hillside sites where the vineyards lie and chiseled from chalk and flint. For all that, though, the wine does not neglect its complement of juicy, spice-inflected stone-fruit flavors. 12.5 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2017 with fresh oysters, grilled mussels, seafood risottos, many sorts of grilled or roasted fish. Excellent. About $25.

Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, Calif. A sample for review.

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The Buried Cane “Heartwood” Red Wine 2013, Columbia Valley, Washington, is a Rhone Valley style blend of 37 percent syrah grapes, 24 percent grenache, 19 mourvèdre, 13 cinsault, 5 counoise and 2 viognier. What’s gratifying about the wine is that while it offers no finesse — that’s not the point — it’s not rustic or roughshod, either, and in fact it practically pulses with energy and personality. The color is bright medium ruby; the wine is pungent with layered aromas of wild black currants and plums, mint, black olives and cedar and notes of briers, brambles, leather and loam, all presided over by a piquant tone of iodine. On the palate, it’s fairly dense and textured, delivering raspily raspberry-ish flavors highlighted by mulberry and blueberry, buoyed by lip-smacking acidity and smacky tannins, this panoply leading to a dry, dust-flecked, spice-and-graphite-packed finish. 15.1 percent alcohol, which does not come across as over-ripe or charged with heat. Production was 758 cases. Drink now through 2018 to 2020 with braised short ribs or veal shanks, grilled leg of lamb studded with garlic and rosemary, you know, that sort of thing. Buried Cane is a label of Middleton Family Wines. Winemaker is Kendall Mix. Excellent. About $25.

A sample for review.

The property known as Chateau Teyssier, in Bordeaux’s Saint Emilion region, dates back to 1714, though until the middle of the 19th Century it was tended as a traditional farm rather than vineyards. The estate, with a somewhat tarnished reputation for its wines and practices, was purchased in 1994 by Englishman Jonathan Maltus, who earned a reputation on Bordeaux’s Right Bank as a maverick, buying and expanding properties, creating estates where none had existed and Teyssier-Chateau-300x234generally improving methods in the vineyards and wineries. The refurbished and dignified little chateau (pictured here) stands in the midst of 6.23 hectares of vines — almost 17 acres — planted between 1965 and 1980.

The year 2012, with its small, late harvest, was a challenging vintage in Bordeaux, with Autumn rains making it difficult to bring in fully ripe cabernet sauvignon. The early ripening merlot fared better in spots. As with every year, in every wine region, thoughtfulness, thoroughness and care in the vineyard produced the best wines.

The Chateau Teyssier 2012, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, is a blend of 85 percent merlot and 15 teyssier percent cabernet franc. It aged in French barriques — well, of course — 1/3 new oak barrels. The color is dark ruby with a faint magenta rim; lovely aromas of cassis, cloves, violets and lavender, with undertones of tobacco, dried rosemary, walnut shell and plums, characterize an irresistible bouquet. This is a sleek, supple, fairly lithe merlot that flows across the palate in a silky display of tasty black fruit flavors that doesn’t conceal the foundation of slightly dusty tannins and chiseled graphite minerality, all enlivened by bright acidity. 12 percent alcohol. This won’t make old bones, as the British say, but drink now through 2020 to ’22 with steaks, prime rib, grilled veal chops. Excellent. About $25 to $28.

Imported by Twins America. Tasted at a wholesaler trade event.

The Zaca Mesa Viognier 2014, Santa Ynez Valley, contains 2.5 percent grenache blanc; it aged six Viognier 14 Front - 05-36337 COR viognier 14US 750Z_TTB_f months in neutral oak barrels, all eight years and more old. Winemaker is Kristin Bryden; director of winemaking and vineyard operations is Eric Mohseni. (Founded in 1973, Zaca Mesa is the third-oldest winery in Santa Barbara County.) The color is pale straw-gold; aromas of camellias and lilac are twined with notes of bee’s-wax and lanolin, peach and golden plum, all rounded by a slightly smoky and honeyed aura. These elements are delicate and refined; there’s nothing flamboyant here, no feather boas or rhinestone sneakers. A silky-smooth texture is riven by bright acidity, buoying subtle stone-fruit flavors that grow spicier through a talc-like finish that reveals a panoply of spare, honed mineral effects. 14.1 percent alcohol. A winsome aperitif, but the real motivation is as accompaniment to mild fish and seafood dishes. Excellent. About $18.

A sample for review.

Jordan Winery’s decision, all these years, to maintain a focus on only two wines — chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon — is one that I wish more producers would follow. Often I feel that Jordan-Winery-Russian-River-Valley-Chardonnay-2014-WebDetailwineries try to be all things to all consumers, dividing their attention and efforts into too many products at myriad levels of intent and price. That said, winemaker Rob Davis made a change in how the Jordan Chardonnay 2014, Russian River Valley, was treated in the winery. While the 2013 version, for example, aged six months in French oak, 40 percent new barrels, and only 18 percent of the wine went through “malo” — the so-called malolactic fermentation that transforms sharp malic (“apple-like”) acid to creamier lactic (“milk-like”) acid — this present release was barrel-fermented 60 percent in stainless steel tanks and 40 percent in new French oak, aged five and a half months in all new French oak and went through 30 percent ML. The result is a wine that is moderately richer and more full-bodied than the chardonnays from Jordan that I tasted in the past, while it retains the emphasis on elegance, purity and intensity. The color is brilliant medium straw-gold; classic aromas of slightly caramelized pineapple and grapefruit open to bare hints of mango, quince and ginger and, after a few minutes airing, to beguiling scents of honeysuckle and lilac. Supple and lithe, staying on the safe side of lushness, the wine displays a structure defined by bright acidity and a vibrant limestone element, resulting in very attractive heft and substance on the palate, all while delivering tasty and spicy citrus and stone-fruit flavors; a whiff of gun-flint and lavender emerges, as the finish concludes with a teasing sense of crystalline minerality. 13.7 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2020 to ’22 with seared salmon or swordfish, grilled trout with capers and brown butter or seafood risottos. Excellent. About $32.

A sample for review.

I am fond of pinot noir wines from Oregon’s Willamette Valley, particularly for what I perceive to be a general feature of such wines, a thread of rich, damp loamy character that bolsters the other qualities of fruit, acidity and minerality. I love this sensation that feels like a grounding in the earth, this evidence of things unseen under the vineyard. The Willamette Valley AVA was approved in 1984, and over the years was divided into six sub-AVAs as variations in micro-climate and soil were identified. The smaller AVAs are Dundee Hills, McMinnville, Eola-Amity Hills, Chehalem Mountains, Ribbon Ridge and Yamhill-Carlton. What’s interesting about the last region is that only grapes grown in vineyards from 200 to 1,000-feet elevation are entitled to the appellation; the federal government is typically not so fastidious about such matters. The wines under review today originate from the general Willamette AVA and from three of the sub-AVAs. The vintages run from 2011 to 2014, but are mainly 2012 and ’13, both excellent years for the area. As usual in the Weekend Wine Notes posts, I eschew details of technical, historical, geographical and personality elements for the sake for incisive reviews, ripped, as it were, from the pages of my notebooks and designed to pique your interest and whet your palate. With two exceptions, duly noted, these wines were samples for review. Enjoy!
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Argyle Nuthouse Lone Star Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013, Eola-Amity Hills. 13.5% alc. Beguiling 15112_ARG-NHPN-13-F_1transparent medium ruby hue; a complex and seamless layering of iodine, plums and graphite, sassafras, rhubarb and pomegranate, with plenty of smoked black cherries as highlights; supple, light and racy but offering pleasing depth and dimension in texture and structure; almost succulent in its tasty ripeness but honed by bright acidity; some time in the glass brings in hints of leather and loam. Pretty much a masterpiece, for drinking through 2020 to 2023. Excellent. About $50.
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David Hill Vineyards and Winery Black Jack Pinot Noir 2012, Willamette Valley. 13.8% alc. This pinot noir spent two years in new and used French oak, a device that contributes both to its superficial exoticism and to a general flattening and muting of varietal character. Very Good. About $55.
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Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir 2011, Willamette valley. 13.1% alc. Medium ruby color with a brick-red rim; cloves and sandalwood, violets and lavender, graphite and loam; spiced and macerated red and black currants and cherries with a background of plums; displays the profound structure and presence that a reserve wine should evince, but not without elegance and finesse; a deep foresty element with a glossy iodine and iron sheen. Now through 2023 to ’25. Excellent. About $75. (A local purchase, about $85.)
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Erath Winery Prince Hill Pinot Noir 2012, Dundee Hills. 13.5% alc. Limpid medium ruby color; first come exotic notes of cloves, sandalwood and rose petals, followed by red cherries and currants, leather and loam, briers and brambles; a lithe and sinewy interpretation of the grape, with acid that plows a furrow on the palate and a background of graphite minerality; soft, slightly talc-like tannins take on more rigor as the moments pass, serving as framework for red berries seemingly steeped in some rooty black tea. Elemental. Now through 2022 to ’25. Excellent. About $50.
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Ghost Hill Cellars Bayliss-Bower Vineyards Pinot Noir Blanc 2013, Yamhill-carlton. 13.5% alc. I ghostfind the white pinot noir phenomenon inexplicable, though this example is appealing enough, with laudable delicacy and elegance. Brilliant topaz-light copper hue; orange zest and peaches, notes of red cherries and currants; slightly loamy, a touch meadowy; bright acidity but still, the wine is curiously characterless. Drink up. Very Good. About $25.
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Grochau Cellars Pinot Noir 2012, Dundee Hills. 14.1% alc. Transparent medium ruby-garnet; earthy grochau-cellars-logoand spicy, with loam, briers and brambles, cloves and allspice; macerated red and black cherries with a hint of cranberry; spare and sinewy, with acidity that plows a furrow; very dry, a lovely texture, but a fairly rigorous and demanding pinot noir (which I like). Now through 2018 or ’19. Excellent. About $33.
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Grochau Cellars Pinot Noir 2012, Eola-Amity. 14.1% alc. Slightly darker ruby color with a tinge grochau-cellars-logoof magenta; red currants and cherries with a note of pomegranate; dense, spicy; graphite-edged tannins and a lithe, supple texture; you feel the earth, the leather, some root-like tea and smoke-etched autumn leaves; grows loamier and spicier as the moments pass, while the hints of dried red berries circulate. Now through 2018 to 2020. Excellent. About $33.
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Lenne Estate Pinot Noir 2012, Yamhill-Carlton. 14.5% alc. 586 cases. A delicate medium ruby hue; red and black cherries, pomegranate and cranberry, cloves, sassafras and white pepper; just a lovely, lithe, graceful pinot noir that gradually pulls up elements of loam, sour cherry and melon, briers and brambles; it gets denser and more intense as the moments pass, but never loses its foothold in elegance and an eloquent expression of the grape. Now through 2018 to 2020. Excellent. About $45.
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Lenne Estate Kill Hill Pinot Noir 2013, Yamhill-Carlton. 13.5% alc. 75 cases. Transcendent medium ruby hue shading to magenta; cloves and sassafras, black cherries and currants freighted by a seam of loam, briers and brambles; a sort of talc-like powderiness about the texture cut by bright acidity; a finish of leather, loam and graphite and a high note of cranberry. Beguiling marriage of elegance and energy. Now through 2019 to ’21. Excellent. About $55.
The label image is one vintage behind.
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Patricia Green Cellars Reserve Pinot Noir 2014, Willamette Valley. 14% alc. Medium ruby shading to a transparent magenta rim; spiced and macerated black and red cherries and currants, iodine and mint, loam and licorice; quite lively and engaging, with resonant acidity and scintillating graphite minerality, these elements bolstering a compote of red and black berry flavors whose hints of dried spices and herbs — cloves, sage, thyme — serve to point up the wine’s purity and intensity. Try from 2017 through 2022 to ’24. Excellent. About $25. (A local purchase, $28.)
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Ponzi Vineyards Tavola Pinot Noir 2014, Willamette Valley. 13.7% alc. Medium transparent ponzi logoruby-magenta color; smoky and spicy black cherries, opens to cloves, sandalwood and rose petals; lots of energy and presence and a definite tannic structure; super-satiny texture laves the palate; the loamy aspects burgeon; terrific substance but at the expense of elegance and finesse. Now through 2020 to ’22. Very Good+. About $27.
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Vidon Vineyard 3 Clones Estate Pinot Noir 2013, Chehalem mountain. 14.3% alc. 480 cases. Medium transparent ruby color; bright, fresh and vital, with red cherries and raspberries and a hint of cranberry, notes of cloves, rhubarb and beetroot; incisive acidity cuts a swath; quite graceful, nothing obvious or opulent; pulls up more spice and a slightly dusty tannic element; touches of melon, sour cherry and apple skin on the elegant finish. Now through 2020 to ’22. Excellent. About $40.
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Vidon Vineyard 3 Clones Estate Pinot Noir 2011, Chehalem Mountain. 13.9% alc. 518 cases. Medium Ruby-garnet hue; heady aromas of mint and sassafras, cranberry, pomegranate and cloves, dried cherries and currants; almost supernaturally sleek, supple and satiny in texture, with a chiseled arrow of acidity that lends spareness to a fairly rigorous structure; a few minutes in the glass bring up notes of underbrush and loam. A beautifully constructed pinot noir, now through 2018 to 2020. Excellent. About $40.
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Youngberg Hill Jordan Pinot Noir 2011, Willamette Valley. 12% alc. It’s interesting that I wrote 2012-Jordan-PN-300x207about the 2012 versions of these Youngberg Hill wines a year ago but received the 2011s for review later; here’s a link to those reviews. A lovely limpid light ruby color; lean and incisive, with elevating aromas of cranberry and cloves, sassafras, a hint of rhubarb and pomegranate, red raspberries and currants; beautifully-wrought, with acidity that carves a path through tasty red berry flavors and a haze of leafy-herbal notes; the spice element expands through the graphite-laden finish. Now through 2018 to 2020. Excellent. About $50.
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Youngberg Hill Natasha Pinot Noir 2011, Willamette valley. 11.5% alc. Entrancing transparent 13_NatashaPinotNoir-300x210ruby hue; first come earth and leather, loam and briers, presaging a pinot noir focused on structure; smolders with smoke and graphite, buoying ripe, dark and spicy red cherries and raspberries, permeated by dried sage and heather; the texture is silky, lithe, spare; acidity cuts a path through the foresty-underbrush elements; a few minutes in the glass unfold whiffs of tobacco and cigarette paper. Now through 2017 to ’19. Excellent. About $50.
As you can see, these label images are for later vintages of the wines mentioned here.
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March seems to be making its egress in lamb-like fashion in our neck o’ the woods, after a month of torrential rain. The weather is balmy, the dogwoods are pushing out their bone-colored 2015RoseFrontblossoms, the birds are tweeting — even lacking opposable thumbs! — and the tree-frogs are tuning their lugubrious bagpipes. Sounds like the perfect opportunity to open a bottle of rosé wine and allow gratitude to flourish. Today I mention the Toad Hollow Dry Rosé of Pinot Noir 2015, Sonoma County — the grapes from Carneros — though since we rarely see sweet rosés any more, I wonder about the necessity of the qualifier “dry” in the wine’s title. As stated, then, this is indeed a dry rosé, lively, lithe and tasty. The color is medium salmon-copper; pert aromas of lightly spiced and macerated strawberries and raspberries carry notes of watermelon and pomegranate, with an undertone of flint. The texture offers some of the satiny quality of pinot noir, though enlivened by crisp acidity and burgeoning limestone minerality. The emphasis, however, is on ripe but spare red berry flavors that on the finish encompass hints of peach and almond skin. 11.5 percent alcohol. Drink through the end of 2016 as a charming aperitif or with such picnic fare as cold fried chicken, deviled eggs and cucumber sandwiches or with a duck and rabbit terrine, crusty bread and a wedge of cheddar cheese. Very Good+. About $14, marking Decent Value.

A sample for review.

We drank the Tascante Ghiaia Nera 2013, Sicilia, with Saturday’s pizza of sweet peppers and Ghiaia Nera 2013 FRONTtomatoes, basil and radicchio, hickory-smoked bacon, mozzarella, parmesan and pecorino. The wine is composed of nerello mascalese grapes grown on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, at just under 2,000 feet elevation. The vines are fairly young, planted in 2004 and 2007. The wine aged 12 months in 60-hectoliter oak barrels, that is barrels of a capacity of 1,585 gallons, considerably larger than the standard 59-gallon French barrique. Nothing elegant here, nor would we expect such from the grape, but rather an expression of directness, of the countryside and the year’s hot, dry summer. The Tascante Ghiaia Nera 2013 is robust without being bumptious and rustic without being rough-shod. The radiant transparent ruby hue is attractive, as are the aromas of ripe black and red cherries and raspberries permeated by notes of briers and brambles, pine resin and hints of mint and garrigue, that well-nigh indefinable aura of meadowy Mediterranean wild grasses, herbs and flowers. On the palate, the wine is juicy with black fruit flavors but quite dry, lively, lithe, bristly, turning shades darker with dusty tannins and graphite minerality. 13 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2018 or ’19 with grilled pork chops, roasted leg of lamb with rosemary and garlic, braised short ribs or hearty pasta dishes. Very Good+. About $20.

Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, Calif. A sample for review.

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