A very pleasant way to pass the Summer would be by drinking Crémant d’Alsace, the sparkling wine produced in that most Teutonic portion of French geography that rubs uneasily against Germany. I’m a fan of the Crémants produced by the firm of Lucien Albrecht, founded in the distant days of 1425. These sparklers are made in the Champagne method of second fermentation in the bottle. Oddly, I see that in the record of this blog I have written about the Lucien Albrecht Brut Rosé thrice but not once about the Brut, so today is the day to right that omission. The Lucien Albrecht Brut Crémant d’Alsace, non-vintage — meaning a combination of several harvests — is a blend of 50 percent pinot blanc grapes and 25 percent each pinot gris and riesling. The color is pale straw-gold, animated by an enthusiastic surge of tiny glinting bubbles; enticing aromas of apple peel and lemon balm, pear and lemongrass open to notes of cloves, quince and ginger. Boy, this is a crisp, crystalline, almost tart sparkler that offers lovely presence and tone on the palate and a honed texture that’s spare and elegant in its limestone and flinty mineral character; a few moments in the glass bring out hints of jasmine, spiced grapefruit and an anchoring but close to ephemeral earthy quality that speaks of vineyards, sunlight and rainfall. 12.5 percent alcohol. Great as a leisurely sipper or try with savory hors d’oeuvre and appetizers. Excellent. About $22, a Fine Value.

Pasternak Wine Imports, Harrison, N.Y. A sample for review.

Pat and Joe Campbell founded Elk Cove Vineyards in 1974, establishing them among a handful of Willamette Valley, Oregon, pioneers such as Erath, Ponzi, Amity, Sokol Blosser and Adelsheim, also launched in the 1970s. The winery focuses on pinot noir as its red wine and two other “pinots” — gris and blanc — as their whites. Winemaker since 1995 has been Pat and Joe’s son Adam Campbell. Our foray today, in this 15th entry into reviewing one wine every day, is the Elk Cove Pinot Gris 2014, carrying the Willamette Valley designation. Seeing only stainless steel, with no oak influence, this pinot gris offers the pleasing paradox of delicacy and prettiness embodied in blazing purity and intensity. The color is pale straw-gold; finely-knit aromas of jasmine and almond blossom, spiced pear and lime peel are highlighted by notes of grapefruit and damp limestone; the stony factor becomes a dominant motif on the palate, in the form of chalk and flint elements, while shivery acidity cuts a swath through a lovely talc-like texture and spare tones of pear and grapefruit. The austere finish — savory, saline, chiseled — resonates with touches of grapefruit rind, almond skin and limestone. 13 percent alcohol. The first thought regarding this wine is fresh oysters, succulent and briny; the second thought is grilled scallops or mussels in a mignonette sauce. Drink now through 2016 or ’17. Excellent. About $19.

A sample for review.

Faithful readers of this blog — bless yer pointy little heads and may yer tribes increase! — know that California chardonnay and I have an uneasy and sometimes contentious relationship. I find too many of them over-blown, buxom, viscous and stridently ripe and spicy. On the other hand, chardonnays that display florid ripeness but manage to maintain an edgy balance with racy acidity and striking mineral elements can be not just delicious but exciting, even risky. Such a one is the Morgan Winery Double L Vineyard Chardonnay 2012, Santa Lucia Highlands. The winery was founded by Dan Morgan Lee and his wife Donna in 1982; winemaker since 2005 has been Gianni Abate. The Lees purchased the Double L property, at the northern end of the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, in 1996, planting the following year. At present, the vineyard consists of 48.52 planted acres: 27.99 acres planted to pinot noir, 18.45 acres of chardonnay and minuscule amounts of syrah and riesling. The vineyard is certified organic. The Morgan Double L Vineyard Chardonnay 2012 aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 30 percent new, the rest one- and two-year-old barrels. This is a golden and glittering chardonnay, offering a mild medium gold hue and forthright aromas of baked pineapple and caramelized grapefruit entwined with notes of jasmine, smoke, cloves and heather, spread on a background of damp crushed gravel. It’s indeed a sizable wine, quite dry but ripe and juicy with spicy citrus and stone-fruit flavors and animated by shattering acidity and dusty, scintillating limestone minerality. Oak provides a finely sifted and supple framework and foundation; a few minutes in the glass bring out hints of lemon balm and walnut oil. The finish is dense yet nimble, serious and exquisite together and radiant with chardonnay’s purity and intensity. 13.9 percent alcohol. A chardonnay this rich and layered, though elegantly (and dynamically) balanced, requires dishes of utmost simplicity; ultra-rich fare would compete with and clash with the wine. Something like grilled trout with brown butter and capers or roasted chicken with tarragon would be perfect. Drink through 2018 to 2020. Production was 530 cases. Exceptional. About $42.

A sample for review.

Now run by the fifth generation, the Vietti estate, in the Langhe region of Piemonte, fashions wines — primarily red — that reflect traditional methods with modern techniques. The Vietti “Tre Vigne” Barbera d’Asti 2013, made completely from barbera grapes, was fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged 14 months in a combination of small French oak barrels, the standard 59-gallon barrique, and large casks of Slovenian oak. (Winemaker is the estate’s owner Luca Currado.) The color is dark ruby, almost opaque at the center; aromas of red and black currants and plums permeated by notes of graphite and loam and woodsy touches of underbrush and dried porcini. These qualities segue seamlessly from nose to palate, with an infusion of red cherries, where the wine offers fairly dense but navigable tannins — dusty, granitic and clean together — and bright, zesty acidity that keeps it notably lively without crossing the edge to screaming and shrill. The wine is quite dry but attractive, engaging and delicious. We drank it — yep, the whole damned bottle — last night with a lasagna featuring tomatoes and sausage with plenty of basil and parmesan, mozzarella and fontina cheeses. 14 percent alcohol. Now through 2017 or ’18. Very Good+. About $17, representing Good Value.

Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, Calif. A sample for review.

Let’s be honest. Rosé wines should not be too serious, thought-provoking or complicated. Their raison d’etre is delight and evanescence, the way that a quick cooling breeze brings delight and relief on a hot afternoon. On the other hand, occasionally I taste — or greedily consume — a rosé of such startling freshness, such intense loveliness and layered pleasure that it transcends mere prettiness and joy and attains a level of perfection and provocation, as a scent-laden gloaming works upon our senses, memories and imaginations. Such a one is the Ehlers “Sylviane” Cabernet Franc Rosé 2014, from the St. Helena AVA of the Napa Valley. This is, frankly, about the most beautiful rose I have encountered in my life of writing about wine. The estate is run on biodynamic principles and is certified organic; the grapes derive from portions of the vineyard dedicated to making rosé, so this one is not an afterthought. It sees no oak, only stainless steel. The color is a radiant light fuchsia-sunset hue; aromas of raspberries and watermelon are woven with rose petal and woodsy notes, with touches of flint, dried thyme and balsam. A few moments in the glass bring up hints of strawberries and a sort of Necco wafer dustiness. The wine slides across the palate in a lively (but not crisp), sleek, lithe flow that propels flavors of wild berry compote and citrus rind through to a delicate, elegant finish. More time, more sniffing and swirling encourage the unfurling of an extraordinary core of lilac, talcum powder and Evening in Paris perfume; it’s hypnotic and tantalizing. 12.9 percent alcohol. Drink through the end of 2016. We had this last night with a Spanish omelet with potatoes, sausage and parsley. Exceptional. About $28.

A sample for review.

Grenache gris is a rare gray-skinned manifestation of the grenache grape, somewhere between “regular” dark grenache and the green grenache blanc. William Allen makes his Two Shepherds Gibson Ranch Grenache Gris 2013 from a 105-year-old vineyard in Mendocino County. It is fermented and aged nine months in neutral French oak, meaning that there’s no interference of toasty new oak with the wine’s purity and intensity, rather a contributing factor of shapeliness and subtlety. The color is pale but radiant gold with a tinge of topaz; an intoxicating bouquet of lilac and camellia, peach and spiced pear, quince and crystallized ginger is wreathed with notes of lemongrass and lime peel. The wine is vital and vivid on the palate, yet spare, delicate and elegant; on the other hand, it’s remarkably intense, displaying real presence without being heavy or obvious; it’s engaging, not obtrusive. Flavors are yellow and green fruit — citrus and stone-fruit and a touch of yellow plum — highlighted by a leafy, bracing savory, saline quality and a finish that brings in touches of grapefruit rind and almond skin. 13.2 percent alcohol. Only 90 cases produced, so mark this one Worth a Search. Drink through 2016 with grilled shrimp, seafood risotto, grilled trout with capers. Excellent. About $28.

A sample for review.

The Abella family has been growing grapes in Spain’s Priorat region since the 15th Century, which means, yes, since before Columbus sailed off to find India and instead stumbled upon the New World, “new,” that is, to some people but not to those who already lived there. The family didn’t actually go into the business of founding a formal estate and making wine until early in the 20th Century, which still puts them pretty early in the game. The vineyards are steeply sloped and lie at altitudes of 1,500 to 2,300 feet above sea level. The Marco Abella Loidana 2010, Priorat, blends 60 percent garnacha (grenache) grapes, 25 percent carignan and 15 percent cabernet sauvignon to make a wine that displays a vibrant deep ruby color and vivid aromas of cedar and dried thyme, red and black currants, cherries and plums and notes of cloves, lavender and bitter chocolate. The red and black fruit flavors are framed by chewy tannins brushed with dust and graphite and incisive acidity that lends liveliness and a thirst-quenching quality; dense and full-bodied, the wine offers a full complement of loamy and lithic elements, finishing with broad dimensions of peppery, spicy flavors, iron and iodine. 14.5 percent alcohol. A wine of real character, almost nobility, yet one that’s approachable and enjoyable, especially, I would say, with grilled leg of lamb adorned with garlic and rosemary or a medium rare rib-eye steak crusted with black and green peppercorns. Drink now through 2020 or so. Excellent. About $30.

Imported by Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, Ill. A sample for review.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and in the nose and on the palate, and if you’re looking for a wine that fulfills those criteria for a reasonable price, stray no more but attach yourself to the Peter Zemmer Punggl Pinot Bianco 2013, from Italy’s far northeastern Alto Adige region, also known as Südtirol, “south Tirol,” for its proximity to Austria. Indeed, surnames and place-names are amorphous in these foothills and ranges where political affiliations and boundaries, which have shifted over many centuries, can be less important than family ties and reputations. Made completely from pinot blanc grapes and aged in a combination of stainless steel tanks and large oak casks, the Peter Zemmer Punggl — that’s not misspelled — Pinot Bianco 2013 offers a pale gold color and intriguing notes of straw, dried thyme, orange blossom, grapefruit and spiced pear, all impeccably and delicately woven and tied off with touches of lime peel and flint. In the mouth, this sleek lovely wine is dry, lean, crisp and racy, with depths of limestone minerality to support its juicy, spicy yet elegant citrus and stone-fruit flavors that bear, at the heart, a tincture, a bell-tone, of wild red currant. Sunny, leafy, with personality to spare, this is one to drink all Summer long and into the Fall as a charming aperitif or with roasted or grilled fish or, perhaps paradoxically, with charcuterie or veal Milanese. 13.5 percent alcohol. Excellent. About $18.

Imported by HB Wine Merchants, New York. A sample for review.

Fellow toilers in the fields of wine-writing, blogging and journalism will understand that sometimes bottles get forgotten in the mounting backlog of samples. Such was the case with the Hestan Vineyards Chardonnay 2010, San Francisco Bay. On the other hand, the winery’s current release chardonnay, according to its website, is the 2011, so there’s not much of a lag. Obviously proprietors Stanley and Helen Cheng like to hold their chardonnays a bit longer than most producers do, evidenced by the fact that most California chardonnays on the market now are from 2012 and ’13. Winemaker for Hestan is Thomas Rivers Brown, who invests the estate’s cabernets and chardonnays with plenty of heart, size, structure and flavor. Though the winery’s principle vineyards lie up-valley, the chardonnay grapes come from a 2.5-acre site near the mouth of the Napa River, hence the San Francisco Bay appellation, approved as an AVA in 1999, amended in 2006. The Hestan Chardonnay 2010 displays a bright medium gold hue with a slight greenish cast; aromas of peach and baked pineapple are imbued with notes of cloves, bay leaf, heather and touches of peach-pit woodiness and pine; a few minutes in the glass bring in hints of quince and crystallized ginger. This is a strapping chardonnay, supple, lithe and silky, almost muscular; despite the ripeness of its citrus and stone-fruit flavors, it’s quite dry, alight with blazing acidity and anchored by prominent limestone minerality, two qualities that save it from opulence and flamboyance. Also blessedly absent are any traces of the tropical, the creamy and the buttery. 14.8 percent alcohol. Production was 350 cases, so mark this Worth a Search. Drink now through 2018 or ’20. Excellent. About $50.

A sample for review.

If a pinot noir wine doesn’t touch both the sublime of the ephemeral and the profundity of the chthonic, it is, to me, perhaps not a failure but a gravely lost opportunity in allowing the grape’s complicated and paradoxical virtues to express themselves. Greg Bjornstad, winemaker for Pfendler Vineyards, employs the panoply of craft, art and intuition to make pinot noirs that satisfy my desire for the broad range of the grape’s character and dimension. The winery is owned by Kimberly Pfendler, pictured here. The Pfendler Pinot Noir 2013, Sonoma Coast, aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 50 percent new. The color is a fairly opaque ruby shading to transparent magenta at the rim; what a seductive procession of black cherries and cranberries, with notes of cloves and sassafras, pomegranate, potpourri and sandalwood, emerges from the glass! The texture offers a lovely, dense, satiny drape that flows with lithe and lissome engagement on the palate, while a few moment’s pause for swirling, sniffing and sipping lend the wine hints of smoke and tobacco leaf, rose petals and rhubarb. Earthy, leathery elements burgeon, and the wine takes on more loamy, underbrushy qualities as it leans toward the power of slightly dusty tannins and a flinty mineral structure. 14.5 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2018 to ’20. Production was 350 cases. Excellent. About $45.

A sample for review.

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