Wed 1 Jun 2016
Both the Cune Rosado 2015 and the Viña Real Rosado 2015, from Spain’s Rioja region, were made by CVNE — that is, Compañia Vinicola del Norte de España — also known as Cune, and each pronounced “coo-nay.” (The company was founded in 1879 by brothers Eusebio and Raimundo Real de Asua and is operated today by their direct descendants.) What accounts for the difference in color between the two rosé wines, that is between the bright cherry-berry color of the Cune Rosado ’15 and the pale slightly pink onion skin hue of the Viña Real Rosado ’15? The first was made from 100 percent red tempranillo grapes; the second is a blend of 85 percent white viura grapes and 15 percent tempranillo. Now if you’re like me, you’ll be a bit skeptical about calling a wine rosé when it’s composed of 85 percent white grapes. I mean, that seems like cheating, though according to extremely complicated EU regulations and their arcane terminology, it is permissible to make a rosé wine by blending red and white grapes or wines.
What are these contrasting rosé wines like?
The Cune Rosado 2015, Rioja, whose color is a striking bright scarlet with a pink-orange blush, offers aromas of pure strawberry, raspberry and cherry with tinges of melon and violets. It’s wonderfully fresh, like raindrops on roses, but it’s also almost robust, offering real body and even touches of slightly dusty tannins and a saline-mineral edge. None of these structural matters detract from and indeed provide a hint of ballast for delicious red berry flavors and an aura of summery fruit macerated in Mediterranean herbs. 13.7 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2017. Very Good+. About $13, marking Excellent Value.
The Viña Real Rosado 2015, Rioja, is an altogether different construct. The color is very pale onion skin with a faint pink cast; the bouquet offers delicate tissues of peaches and Rainier cherries, lilac and thyme, with back-notes of rose petals and damp and dusty roof tiles. Ethereal on the palate, this rosé nonetheless delivers pulsing acidity and a subtle but scintillating chalky-flint element for tensile strength. Primarily, though, the impression is of something exquisite and gauzy, an adjunct to progressive heat and refreshing breezes. 13 percent alcohol. Drink now through the end of 2016. Very Good+. About $15.
Imported by Europvin USA. Samples for review.