Veneto


Founded in 1995, Tenuta Sant’Antonio is a relative newcomer in the Veneto, though the four Castagnedi brothers have worked their entire lives in the vineyards of Valpolicella and Soave. All the wines are made entirely from estate grapes, traditional to the region, grown in hillside vineyards that average 1,000 feet altitude. Sustainable practices include plant composting, total grass cover in the vineyards to control weeds, and natural pest control processes. French oak barriques are not employed. The three red wines considered today are a Valpolicella Superiore and Superiore Ripasso and a special selection Amarone della Valpolicella. These wines, all of which I recommend, were samples for review.
Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, Calif.
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The Tenuta Sant’Antonio Nanfrè 2015, Valpolicella Superiore, is a blend of 70 percent corvina grapes and 30 percent rondinella, made entirely in stainless steel. The color shades from dark to medium ruby; aromas of spiced and macerated black and red currants and cherries are woven with notes of mint and iodine, violets and cloves; it’s very dry, lively on the palate and imbued with slightly loamy graphite minerality, as well as tasty black fruit flavors and a hint of velvety tannins. 13.5 percent alcohol. Nothing too complicated here, but perfect for burgers, pizzas, red-sauce pastas and such. Now through 2018. Very Good+. About $14, representing Real Value.
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In the ripasso method, a young wine is refermented — “repassed” — in the Spring on the skins (of the dried grapes) of Amarone from the same vintage, lending the wine in question more depth and a more interesting aroma and flavor profile, as well as a degree or two of alcohol. The Sant’Antonio Monti Garbi 2014, Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso, then aged a year in 500-liter oak casks, 30 percent new, 70 percent second use. The color is dark ruby-garnet; a slightly roasted and baked quality emerges in the notes of fruitcake and brandied cherries and currants, dusty plums and deep elements of cloves, cocoa powder and bitter chocolate, these factors adding a bit of astringency to the juicy black fruit flavors; a few moments in the glass bring in hints of iodine and wood smoke. The wine is sleek, lithe and muscular but not heavy or obvious, and the finish is packed with baking spices, dried flowers, flint-like minerals and fruit compote. 14 percent alcohol. Now through 2020 to ’22, accompanying pappardelle with rabbit, braised veal or lamb shanks, lamb chops grilled with garlic and rosemary; you get the point. Excellent. About $19, another Fine Value.
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The Sant’Antonio “Selezione Antonio Castagnedi” 2013, Amarone della Valpolicella, is a blend of 70 percent corvina grapes, 20 percent rondinella and five percent each croatina and oseleta, aged two years in new French oak casks of 500 liters. It’s a deep, broadly dimensioned wine that offers a dark ruby hue and pungent aromas of spiced and macerated blackberries, currants and plums steeped in lavender and violets, iodine and oolong tea, smoke and graphite; the wine is quite dry and profoundly flavorful and savory but cushioned by soft velvety tannins that take on a peppery, woodsy and meadowy aspect buoyed by bright acidity. Some time in the glass brings in notes of lavender, black licorice and mocha; the finish is layered, fine-grained and chiseled. Leans more toward elegance than blockbuster status. 15 percent alcohol. Try from 2018 through 2025 to ’28 with game flesh and fowl; grilled or roasted beef or pork; strong dry, mature cheeses. Excellent. About $45.
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It rained like crazy here this morning, but then the downpour retreated, the clouds blew away to the east and the sun emerged, happy and vovetijolly and warm(ish). A perfect afternoon for sitting on the back porch and sipping a glass of Prosecco, along with a handful of almonds, a few slivers of Serrano ham and a small bowl of plump green olives. If you grow weary, a-weary of Prosecco that comes across all kissy-face floral and fruity and then dies away in the glass, here’s the antidote. The Voveti Prosecco is made from 100 percent glera grapes grown in the Prosecco region of the Veneto, primarily in the privileged spot called Valdobbiadene; the grapes are trucked in small boxes to the winery in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, and the sparkling wine is produced there in the Charmat fashion of second fermentation in tank. In fact, from grape to glass takes 12 months, so we’re not talking Champagne, n’est-ce pas? What we are talking, instead, is charm and delicacy — and tiny glinting, surging bubbles — married to a steely, limestone-infused structure that supports subtle notes of green apple, smoke and almond blossom, lime peel, jasmine and seashell, this panoply melded with the tensile energy of brilliant acidity. There it is, and why should we ask for anything more, given the price and the intention. 11 percent alcohol. Very Good+. About $17, often discounted to $13 or $14.

A sample from the local wholesaler.

It’s chilly and brisk today in what’s called the Mid-South in these here parts, putting me in mind of a hearty but not overdone or blockbusterish red wine. Such a candidate would be the Scaia Paradiso 2013, a Rosso Veronese from Tenuta Sant’Antonio, a noted producer of parrs13_art210Valpolicella and Amarone. The wine is a blend of 50 percent corvina grapes, 20 percent each corvinone and rodinella and 10 percent cabernet sauvignon. The wine undergoes a second fermentation on the skins of dried cabernet grapes for about 10 days, in the ripasso method of Valpolicella, though cabernet is unusual in this respect. The wine aged for a year in 500-liter oak casks, about 132 gallons, compared to 59 gallons for the standard French barrique. This is a gritty, loamy, smoky wine — there are three of the Dwarfs — whose dark but not over-extracted ruby-garnet color testifies to an innate transparency and lightness of being. Aromas of deeply spiced and macerated black and red cherries offer notes of cherry skin and pit, along with a foresty element of briers and brambles; a few moments in the glass bring out hints of mint and blueberry. A nicely chiseled graphite element pervades the texture, serving as backdrop for a barky and rooty quality, like some black tea concocted by monks, and a bit of Damson plum, licorice and violets, all animated by enlivening acidity and a touch of dusty tannins. None of these characteristics are unduly emphatic or dominate, the whole package being a model of balance and integration. 14.5 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2019 or ’20 with full-flavored pasta dishes, grilled red meat or dry aged cheeses. Excellent. About $18, representing Real Value.

Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, Calif. A sample for review.

So, My Readers, here is my annual list of the Great Wine Bargains from the previous year, except that, instead of offering you 25 examples, as I usually do, I provide 30, because there are so many excellent inexpensive wines available. The prices here range from $11 to $20. and while I realize that for some people even $18 to $20 stretches what they want to pay for a bottle of wine, I believe that you will find something on this roster fit for most every taste and pocket book. This is a gratifyingly diverse group of wines, and for the first time I welcome products from Brazil, Greece and Hungary to the line-up. Many of these examples are wines to buy by the case and keep around for a year for drinking daily, though, honestly, the point of most of these wines is not to make old bones. The primary theme is: Drink Up and Enjoy. Sensibly, of course, and in moderation.
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aia
Aia Vecchia Vermentino 2015, Toscana Maremma, Italy. Very Good+. About $12.

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alpha
Alpha Estate Turtles Vineyard Malagouzia 2015, Florina, Macedonia, Greece. 100 percent malagouzia grapes. Excellent. About $18.

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Ascevi Luwa Ronco Superiore Ceròu 2014, Friuli Isonza, Italy. 100% tocai friulano grapes. Production was 500 cases. Excellent. About $18.
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furmint
Béres Tokaji Furmint 2014, Szaraz, Hungary. 100 percent furmint grapes. Excellent. About $19.

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Bonny Doon Vineyard Vin Gris de Cigare 2015, Central Coast. 44 percent grenache grapes, 20 percent grenache blanc, 13 carignane, 10 mourvèdre, 7 cinsaut and 6 roussanne. Excellent. About $18.

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colome-torrontes
Colomé Torrontés 2015, Calchaqui Valley, Salta, Argentina. Excellent. About $15.
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Garofoli Serra del Conte 2014, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico, Italy. Excellent. About $11.

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duret
Domaine Pierre Duret Quincy 2014, Loire Valley, France. 100 percent sauvignon blanc. Excellent. About $14.

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duas
Esporão Duas Castas 2014, Alentejano, Portugal. 60 percent arinto grapes and 40 percent gouveio, Excellent. About $14.

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Marco Felluga “Mongris” Pinot Grigio 2015, Collio, Italy. Excellent. About $18.
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illahe
Illahe Viognier 2015, Willamette Valley, Oregon. Excellent. About $17.

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Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages 2014. Excellent. About $14.
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Lee Family Farm Temprnillo 2014, Arroyo Seco, Monterey County. 53 cases produced. Excellent. About $20.

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lidio
Lidio Carraro Agnus Tannat 2014, Serra Guacha, Brazil. Very Good+. About $12.
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Masi Rosa dei Masi 2015, Rosato della Venezia, Italy. 100 percent refosco grapes. Excellent. About $15.

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gemma-rose
Masciarelle Villa Gemma 2015, Cerasuola d’Abruzzo Rose, Italy. 100 percent montepulciano d’Aruzzo grapes. Excellent. About $15.

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Francois Montand Brut Blanc de Blancs nv, Jura, France. Very Good+. About $14.
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Morgan Albarino 2015, Monterey County. 375 cases. Excellent. About $18.
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m-cb
M de Mulonnière Chenin Blanc 2015, Anjou, Loire Valley, France. Excellent. About $15.
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forster
Weingut Eugen Müller Forster Mariengarten Riesling Kabinett 2013, Pfalz, Germany. Excellent. About $19.

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Odfjell Vineyards Armador Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Casablanca Valley, Chile. Excellent. About $14.

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pedroncelli
Pedroncelli Winery Dry Rosé of Zinfandel 2015, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County. Excellent. About $12,

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Chateau Puyanché 2014, Francs Cote de Bordeaux Blanc. 75% sauvignon blanc, 25% semillon. Excellent. About $15.

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Real Compania de Vinos Tempranillo 2012, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla, Spain. Very Good+. About $12.
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selvapiana
Selvapiana Chianti Rufina 2013, Toscana, Italy. 95 percent sangiovese grapes with five percent canaiolo, colorino and malvasia nera. Excellent. About $17.
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schneider
Georg Albrecht Schneider Niersteiner Paterberg Riesling Kabinett 2013, Rheinhessen, Germany. Excellent. About $15.

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serres-rioja
Carlos Serres Crianza 1012, Rioja, Spain. 85 percent tempranillo, 15 percent garnacha. Very Good+. About $12.
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Cantina Tramin Pinot Grigio 2015, Sudtirol-Alto Adige, Italy. Excellent. About $16.

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cava
Vilarnau Brut Reserve Cava, nv. Traditional blend of 50 percent macabeo grapes, 35 percent parellada and 15 percent xarel-lo. Very Good+. About $13.
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Vina Robles Red4 2013, Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County. 41 percent petite sirah, 40 percent syrah, 10 percent mourvedre, 9 percent grenache. Excellent. About $17.
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There’s Prosecco, and then there’s the — don’t try to say this all in one breath — Maschio dei Cavalieri Rive di Colbertaldo 2014, cavalieriValdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, made from 100 percent glera grapes, though Italian wine regulations allow for up to 15 percent other grapes in a blend. It is not fashioned in the traditional Champagne method of second fermentation in the bottle, most Proseccos being made in the Charmat process of second fermentation in tank. Maschio dei Cavalieri tells us, however, that they accomplish the alcoholic and carbon dioxide fermentation simultaneously. OK. The Maschio dei Cavalieri Rive di Colbertaldo 2014 displays a pale straw yellow hue and a fervent rush of refined bubbles; this is a fresh and clean sparkling wine, offering gentle aromas of jasmine, green apple and pear, lime and lemongrass, smoke and steel. It’s crisp and lively on the palate, bringing in flavors of roasted lemon and melon, while at the core a cloud-like tenderness of texture prevails. Quite dry and more invigorating as the moments pass, this sparkling wine concludes with a fairly austere flinty finish. 11.5 percent alcohol. While the 2014 is now two years old, I recommend it for the sense of burnish and nuance that it reveals; drink through 2017. Excellent. About $20, representing Great Value.

Imported by Cru Artisan Wines, Old Brookville, N.Y., a division of Banfi Vintners. A sample for review.

Here’s a refreshing way to end the week or start it, depending on your point of view of Sunday’s boscofunction. The Bosco di Gica Brut, Valdobbiandene Prosecco Superiore, from the almost century-old Adriano Adami estate, adds some three to five percent chardonnay to its regulation glera grape, the one we used to call the prosecco grape but no longer. (How often in the dim past did I write “Prosecco is the name of the grape and the product”?) The grapes were grown on steep terraced hillsides of fairly shallow soil, the vineyards generally facing south; this is north of Venice. Prosecco is made, of course, not in the “Champagne method” of second fermentation in the bottle but in the Charmat process in which the second fermentation that produces the bubbles, occurs in steel pressure tanks. Whatever the method, the Bosco di Gica Brut is indeed a superior Prosecco, offering a very pale gold hue and a steady stream of glinting bubbles that’s more a persistent fizz than a propulsive froth; still, it’s quite pretty. Aromas of apples and pears, acacia and almond blossom develop hints of lime peel and almond skin; on the palate, this sparkler is delicate, pert and lively, a tickle for the tongue, made intriguing by its briny seashell minerality and pleasing for its deft balance and integration. 11 percent alcohol. Drink up and enjoy. Excellent. About $18.

Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, Calif. A sample for review.

A movement is afoot to create rosé wines that are more robust, darker, more flavorful and emphatic than the classical spare, delicate, elegant models that originate in the South of France or the Loire Valley. At the same time, there’s quite a push to produce more rosé wines across the board, as wineries and estates around the world became aware, over the past decade, that Americans now love rosé. And let’s face it, friends, the American palate rules the world of wine. Today’s post looks at 15 examples of rosé wines from various regions in California, Italy, France, Spain and Argentina. The ratings for these wines range from Excellent down to Good, an indication as to quality and perhaps some wrongheaded choices in terms of grape varieties. I think, for instance, that the malbec grape isn’t a rational choice for rosé, perhaps being inherently too rustic. The best rosés still derive from the prototype varieties of the Rhône Valley and Provence — grenache, cinsault, mourvèdre, syrah — and from pinot noir, as in Sancerre, and yet I’m constantly surprised what great rosés can be made from outliers like refosco and tempranillo. So, I say to the winemakers of the world, Experiment, go ahead and surprise us! But keep it simple. The best rosé wines offer direct appeal; a finely-woven and fine-boned fruit, acid and mineral structure; and pure refreshing deliciousness.
These wines were samples for review.
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Aia Vecchia Solidio Rosato 2015, Toscana, Italy. 13.5% alc. 90% sangiovese, 10% merlot. Medium copper-salmon shade; spicy and peppery (white pepper), strawberries and raspberries, both dried and macerated; notes of melon and sour cherry; fairly earthy and a bit too rooty; lacks charm and finesse. A first rosé for this estate, not exactly a success. Good only. About $14.
Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, Calif.
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Alta Vista Malbec Rosé 2015, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina. 12.5% alc. Bright medium copper-salmon hue; vivid aromas of strawberry, raspberry and tomato skin, with a fairly lush texture; a bit too florid and blowsy … and with a sweetish finish. Doesn’t work. Good only. About $13.
Kobrand Wine and Spirits, Purchase, N.Y.
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Chronic Cellars Pink Pedals 2015, Paso Robles. 12.4% alc. 89% grenache, 11% syrah. Delicate salmon-pink shade; yes, petal-like — heehee — as in roses and violets, with notes of peach and cherry, some melon comes to the fore; engages the palate with bright acidity and a hint of graphite-dusty tile minerality, but mainly this is fine-boned and honed. Very Good+. About $15.
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Cune-Rosado-NV
Cune Rosado 2015, Rioja, Spain. 13.5% alc. 100% tempranillo. Vivid scarlet with a pink-orange blush; pure strawberry and raspberry with a tinge of melon; bouquet is as fresh as raindrops on roses, but this is fairly robust for a rose and even exhibits a bit of tannin and a definite saline-limestone edge, like a seashell just plucked from the waves; a note of peach comes up in a dry, almost chewy package. Unusual, but Very Good+. About $13.
Europvin USA, Denver, Colo.
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guogal rose
E. Guigal Rosé 2015, Côtes du Rhône, France. 13.5% alc. 60% grenache, 30% cinsault, 10% syrah. Pale salmon-pink color; peaches, watermelon, raspberries; touches of raspberry sorbet, lilac and talc; crisp and clean but moderately lush; notes of strawberry leaf and sage; tasty and nicely balanced. Very Good+. About $15.
Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, N.Y.
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lazy creek rose
Lazy Creek Vineyards Rosé of Pinot Noir 2015, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County. 14.2% alc. Pale copper-salmon color; a subtle and delicate melange of strawberries, raspberries, orange rind, heather and meadow flowers; these fruit flavors feel lightly spiced and macerated, balanced by bright acidity and a pointed element of limestone and flint minerality; lovely balance and texture on the palate. Excellent. About $22.
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Luigi-Bosca-Rose
Luigi Bosca A Rosé Is a Rosé Is a Rosé 2015, Mendoza, Argentina. 12% alc. 60% pinot gris, 40% syrah. The rather defensive name of this wine probably derives from the fact that it consists of more white wine than red wine in a quite unusual blend. Very pale smoky topaz-onion skin hue; melon and strawberry, delicately etched with tangerine and lemon balm, a hint of jasmine and red currant; the pertness of pinot gris with syrah’s alluring slightly dense texture; the finish offers the tang of lime peel, pomegranate and pink grapefruit. Intriguing. Excellent. About $22.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York
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Masi Rosa dei Masi 2015, Rosato della Venezia, Italy. 12.5% alc. 100% refosco grapes. Beautiful coral-pink color; pure strawberry and melon, with touches of almond skin, faint peach and Rainier cherry; lovely balance between a delicate nature and deeper intensity; attractive rainy-dusty-lilac aura and a very dry finish. Just terrific. Excellent. About $15, marking Great Value.
Kobrand Wines and Spirits, Purchase, N.Y.
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truvee
McBride Sisters Truvée Rosé 2015, Central Coast. 12.5% alc. 92% grenache, 5% syrah, 2% tempranillo, 1% roussanne. The color is a very pale Mandarin orange hue; the wine is very delicate, absolutely lovely; whispers of cherries and red currants open to notes of lilac and lavender, with nuances of talc and limestone; the floral element grows into an aura that’s tenderly exotic, while the wine remains dry, crisp and vibrant. Excellent. About $15.
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monaci
Castello Monaci Kreos 2015, Salento, Italy. 13% alc. 100% negroamaro grapes. Bright salmon-pink color; peaches and melon, ripe strawberry and tomato skin; undercurrent of damp stones; vivid acidity; slightly saline, loamy finish. Very Good. About $16.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York.
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MURIEL ROSADO 2011
Bodegas Muriel Rosado 2015, Rioja, Spain. 13.55 alc. 50% tempanillo, 50% garnacha. Smoky topaz-copper hue; peach, strawberry, orange zest; dusty gravel; lithe, fluid, tasty, lovely body and surface; juicy core of pink fruit but quite dry and classic in its delicacy and lightness; impeccably balanced between a nicely lush texture and vivid acidity, leading to a spare, chiseled finish. Very Good+. About $12, so Worth Buying by the Case.
Quinessential, Napa, Calif.
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Pedroncelli Winery Dry Rosé of Zinfandel 2015, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County. 13.9% alc. Bright cerise-mulberry color; melon and raspberry, thyme and sage, orange rind, pomegranate and mint and a whiff of white pepper; fairly intense for a rose, very dry, mouth-filling, not quite robust; chiseled acidity and flint-like minerality yet generously proportioned. Excellent. About $12, a Fantastic Bargain, buy it by the case.
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Q rose 15
Quivira Rosé 2015, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County. 13.5% alc. 988 cases. 55% grenache, 20 mourvèdre, 10 syrah, 10 counoise, 5 petite sirah. This aged four months in neutral French oak barrels. Light salmon-copper hue; peaches with notes of strawberries and raspberries, damp stones and hints of dried thyme and sage; very dry and flinty with bright acidity and a jewel-tone of cherry-pomegranate at the core. Excellent. About $22.
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RC ROSADO FT
Real Compañia de Vinos Rosado 2015, Meseta Central, Spain. 13.5% alc. 100% garnacha grapes (grenache). Florid copper-salmon color; starts out pretty, with rose petals and violets, strawberries and raspberries, orange rind and dried mountain herbs; needs more vibrancy, more nerve and bone. Pleasant though. Very Good. About $10.
Quintessential, Napa, Calif. The label image is one year behind.
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The Seeker Rosé Wine 2015, Côte de Provence, France. 13% alc. Grenache and cinsault. Very pale onion skin hue; a very delicate amalgam of hints and nuances, with notes of strawberry and raspberry, melon and dried thyme in a crisp lithe package that concludes with a slightly chiseled flinty edge. Pretty classic and very pretty too. Very Good+. About $14.
Kobrand Wine and Spirits, Purchase, N.Y.
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Bisol_CredeValdobbiadeneProseccoSuperioreDOCG_bottleThumb
The Bisol Crede Brut is consistently one of the best Prosecco sparkling wines to come from that region in the Veneto. The designation is Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, the hillside location — Valdobbiadene — being one of the prime vineyard areas for the glera grape. This is a blend of 85 percent glera, 10 percent pinot bianco and five percent verdiso grapes. It was made in the Charmat or autoclave method of second fermentation induced in stainless steel tanks. The vintage — 2014 — is indicated in small type on the back label. The color is very pale gold, animated by a whirling swarm of tiny glinting bubbles. This sparkling wine is all smoke and steel, green apples and pears, with notes of acacia and heather and a snap of flint. It’s very dry, offering a lithe limestone-flecked structure that chimes with bright acidity and a finish that’s vibrant with sea-shell minerality and salinity. 11.5 percent alcohol. Tasty and elegant together. Excellent. About $25.

Vias Imports, New York. A sample for review.

Not every wine needs to be profound, protean, fathomless and brooding, as I have asserted many times and will probably do so many more times before I shuffle off to Buffalo, a ditty that has, by the way, been looping through the convoluted canyons of my mind for several days. (Why do these things occur? I haven’t seen “42nd Street” since I was a mere lad innocent of the vine.) Anyway, often all we require of a wine is that it offer enough character that our noses lab_Carmenere_piu.pngand palates perk up and the flavors and body to go with whatever we’re eating at the moment. Such a one that fulfills these obligations and more is the Inama Carmenere Puì… 2013, from the Colli Berici wine region of the Veneto. The wine is classified, in fact, as a Veneto Rosso, being composed of 70 percent carmenere grapes and 30 percent merlot. It aged 12 months in second-use French barriques. For those of you who believe that the carmenere grape is exclusive to Chile, remember that it was grown in Europe first, before migrating to South America, where for decades people thought it was merlot. C’est la vie! The Inama Carmenere Puì… 2013 sports a dark ruby robe and a bright, ripe and engaging bouquet of black and red cherries and currants buoyed by notes of bitter chocolate, tapenade and rosemary, with a bit of that herb’s dry, resinous power. It’s robust without being rustic, amply furnished with vibrant acidity and dry, slightly dusty, mineral-flecked tannins and displaying plenty of spicy black fruit flavors. The tannic influence increases as the minutes pass, contributing to a finish that feels a bit austere. 13.5 percent alcohol. If you’re firing up the grill, consider this wine with leg of lamb studded with rosemary and garlic; pork chops crusted with a Southwestern rub; or, as we employed it, with baked ziti. Drink now through 2018 to 2020. Very Good+. About $20.

Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, Calif. A sample for review.

We drank the Tommasi “Rafaèl” 2013, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, with pizza last weekend — it made one of those “bingo” effects with the Salami Toscana with fennel — and it would work tommasiequally well with hearty pasta dishes, braised short ribs and grilled pork chops, or a burger. Made by an estate founded in 1902, near Verona, and operated now by the fourth generation of siblings and cousins, the wine is a blend of the traditional Valpolicella grapes: corvina Veronese, 60 percent; rondinella, 25 percent; molinara, 15 percent. It aged 15 months in large Slavonian oak casks, large as in 65 hectoliters, or 1,717 gallons. The color is a medium ruby hue with a tinge of garnet at the rim. “Plums and more plums,” I wrote in my notes, along with black tea, pepper and a whole box of dried spices and potpourri, or think of the heady scent of a pomander, an orange studded with cloves, slowly drying in the sun; other fruit accents include black cherries and raspberries. The wine flows across the palate with a sense of urgency, propelled by bright acidity and a clean, chiseled graphite mineral element, managing to be pleasantly dense and elegantly spare at the same time. The finish brings in beguiling touches of tobacco and cigarette paper and a hint of sage. 13.5 percent alcohol. Lovely personality and character. Now through 2018 or ’19. Excellent. About $20, representing Real Value.

Imported by Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, N.Y. A sample for review.

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