Soave


This trio of Soave Classico wines from the Inama estate will probably be among the best examples, if not the best, that you have tried. Notable for their floral nature, their round fruity character balanced by keen acidity and limestone minerality and their impressive presence and tone, they are perfect for drinking with the seafood dishes so prevalent in the Veneto. Winemaker is Stefano Inama, who brings a thoughtful touch to his products, particularly in the nuances of used oak barrels and stainless steel tanks. The wines are made from 100 percent garganega grapes and are imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, in the city of Napa, California. These were samples for review.
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Inama’s basic release, the “Vin Soave” 2012, Soave Classico, spends its formative months in stainless steel tanks, thereby retaining enticing freshness and crisp acidity. This is a pretty wine, abundantly adorned with notes of almond blossom and lilac, hay and grass, lemon and peach, all ensconced in a pleasing texture that balances resonant tautness and moderate lushness over a fair amount of limestone minerality. 12 percent alcohol. Very appealing for immediate consumption. Very Good+. About $15, representing Fine Value.
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Inama Vigneti di Foscarino 2012, Soave Classico. The color is pale gold, the bouquet a winsome amalgam of ginger and quince, lemon balm and almond blossom, roasted lemon and yellow plums, altogether deeply and broadly spicy. Fermentation occurs in used barriques with the wine racked to stainless steel vats for six months duration. A lovely moderately lush texture is animated by brisk acidity and a scintillating limestone element, the whole package being saline and savory, with a note of grapefruit bitterness on the finish. 12.5 percent alcohol. Now through 2015 or ’16. Excellent. About $24.
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Inama Vigneto du Lot 2011, Soave Classico. For this single-vineyard wine, fermentation and malolactic take place in standard barriques, 30 percent new oak barrels, for six months; the wine then goes into stainless steel vats for another six months. The color is radiant medium gold, while the bouquet offers a beguiling (yet slightly spare and austere) wreathing of almond skin and almond blossom, the dusty dry floral nature of acacia, spiced pear with a hint of peach; a few minutes in the glass bring in notes of lemongrass and greengage plum. The wine is leafy, wind-blown, saline in the mouth, layering citrus and stone-fruit flavors with damp limestone and flint and chiming acidity. 13 percent alcohol. Now through 2015 or ’16 with seafood risotto, fish stews, grilled salmon or swordfish. With its sleek tone and presence, this is certainly one of the two or three best Soave Classicos I have tasted. Excellent. About $30.
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Need I say more? Half-a-dozen very attractive, lively, spicy and savory — some more spicy than savory, some more savory than spicy — white wines designed to quench the thirst, caress and engage the palate, and accompany all sorts of the imaginative cuisine you’re so good at creating — or, you know, a package of fish sticks from the freezer (the only form of seafood we ate when I was a child). Anyway, quick reviews here, meant to tease your interest and whet your taste-buds. All were samples for review. Enjoy!
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Villa Robles Huerhuero Albarino 2013, Paso Robles. 14.5% alc. Very pale gold hue; jasmine and clover, roasted lemons and lemon balm,
cloves and ginger; very dry and crisp with zingy acidity but delivering a pleasing almost talc-like texture; tangerine with a note of peach and pine; juicy, saline, savory, mouth-watering. Now through 2015. Very Good+. About $18, online and tasting-room only.
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Rocca Sveva Castelerino 2012, Soave Superiore Classico, Italy. 13% alc. Very pale gold color; quite fresh and clean; pineapple, mango, lemongrass, almond blossom, lime peel, but with a spareness and savory quality married to slight astringency; lively, spicy, slightly dusty limestone effect. Now through 2015 to ’16. Very Good+. About $20.
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Jean Ginglinger Cuvee George Pinot Blanc 2011, Alsace, France. 12.5% alc. Bright medium gold color; crisp, clean, lean, blade-like but filled with notes of lychee and slightly over-ripe peaches and tangerines and hints of lime peel and little white flowers; chiseled, incisive limestone minerality and scintillating acidity; brings in touches of cloves, flint and loam on the finish. Quite a performance. Now through 2017 to ’18. Excellent. About $17, representing Great Value.
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MacMurray Estate Vineyards Pinot Gris 2013, Russian River Valley. 14.4% alc. This Gallo label was formerly known as MacMurray Ranch. Pale gold hue; citrus and stone-fruit, spare and lean; cloves, quince and ginger; dry but juicy with a very attractive mouth-feel; bright acidity and limestone/flint minerality; a dry, spicy, slightly austere finish; fine-grained complexity on the palate. Now through 2016. Excellent. About $20.
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Cadaretta SBS 2012, Columbia Valley, Washington. 70% sauvignon blanc, 30% semillon. Very pale gold hue; melon and lime peel, lemongrass and fig, slightly grassy and hay-like, herbal in the thyme sense, musky and dusky; tantalizing hints of lavender and lilac; crisp and lively but silky smooth texture; savory, mouth-filling but limpid with crystalline purity and intensity and a limestone finish. Now through 2015 or ’16. Excellent. About $23.
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Mar de Frades Albarino 2012, Rias Baixas, Spain. 12.5% alc. You can’t miss the cobalt-blue bottle. Pale straw-gold color; decisively saline and savory, thrilling vitality; roasted lemon and spiced pear; intensely floral with notes of jasmine, almond blossom and some wild fragrance; very dry, with a citrus tang, clean acidity and heaps of vivid limestone minerality. Now through 2015. Excellent. About $25.
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Grilling a piece of fish for dinner? Searing salmon or tuna? Or preparing a seafood risotto or perhaps clam linguine? Open a bottle of the Rocca Sveva Soave Classico 2013, and you won’t be sorry. The wine, one of the most familiar Italian wines to American consumers, originates from a small area of the Veneto region, in the northeastern part of the country. While vineyards spread across the plains, the best Soave comes from about 2,800 acres planted on hillsides. Rocca Sveva Soave Classico 2012 is composed of 100 percent garganega grapes and was made completely in stainless steel. The color is pale greeny-straw-gold; aromas of almond blossom, hay, spiced pear and yellow plums are woven with notes of acacia, grapefruit and quince, altogether quite enticing. Stone-fruit and citrus flavors highlighted by hints of cloves and lime peel are nestled in a sleek lithe structure that balances brisk acidity and limestone minerality with an almost powdery talc-like texture. The entire package is savory, saline and delicious. Alcohol content is a sensible 12.5 percent. Drink through the end of 2014. Very Good+. About $15, representing Excellent Value.

MW Imports USA, White Plains, N.Y. A sample for review.