Sauvignon blanc


So, here it is, My Readers, the annual “50 Great Wines” roster, presently for the past year, that is, 2016. Not the “Greatest” of all wines or the “Best” of all wines, but a selection of 50 products that struck me as embodying everything we want in a wine: freshness, balance, appeal; depth, personality and character; an adherence to the nature of the grapes and, where possible, the virtues of the vineyard and climate. These are wines that leave aside the ego of the winemaker and producer for an expression of — not to sound too idealistic — an ideal of what a wine should be. I won’t belabor the process by which I arrived at this list of 50 wines, except to say that every wine I rated “Exceptional” during 2016 is automatically included. Did I leave out wines that I truly admired? Indeed, I did, because this list focuses on wines that I truly loved. Enjoy!
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Acorn Heritage Vines Alegria Vineyard Zinfandel 2013, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County. 78 percent zinfandel, 12 percent alicante bouschet, 8 percent petite sirah and 2 percent a combination of carignane, trousseau, sangiovese, petit bouschet, negrette, syrah, black muscat, cinsault and grenache. A real field blend. Production was 548 cases. Excellent. About $45.
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Alfred Gratien Brut Rose nv, Champagne, France. Excellent. About $65.
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Arrow&Branch Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Napa Valley. Exceptional. About $35.
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Black Kite Cellars Soberanes Vineyard Chardonnay 2014, Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County. Production was 212 cases. Exceptional. About $48.
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Bonny Doon Bien Nacido X-Block Syrah 2012, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County. Exceptional. About $50.

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R. Buoncristiani Vineyard Orentano Pinot Noir 2012, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County. 305 cases made. Excellent. About $40.

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Les Cadrans de Lassegue 2012, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux. Merlot and cabernet franc. Excellent. About $35.

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Champ de Rêves Pinot Noir 2013, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County. Exceptional. About $45.

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Chartogne-Taillet “Heurtebise” Blanc de Blancs Brut 2008, Champagne, France. Exceptional. About $65 to $80.

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Domaine Chignard “Beauvernay” 2014, Julienas, Beaujolais Cru. Excellent. About $22.

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Cornerstone Cellars Michael’s Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Napa Valley. Production was under 250 cases. Exceptional. About $75.

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Erath Winery Prince Hill Pinot Noir 2012, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon. Excellent. About $50.

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Etude Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014, Sta. Rita Hills. Exceptional, About $45.

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Eve’s Cidery Essence Ice Cider, Finger Lakes, New York. 390 cases produced. Exceptional. About $28.

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Fields Family Wines Old Vine Zinfandel 2013, Lodi. 250 cases made. Excellent. About $28.

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Gamble Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Napa Valley. Exceptional. About $25.

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Tenute Cisa Asinari Marchesi di Grésy Martinenga Camp Gros Riserva Barbaresco 2010, Piedmont, Italy. Exceptional. About $106.

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Inman Family OGV Estate Pinot Noir 2013, Russian River Valley. Excellent. About $73.

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Jayson Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Napa Valley. Exceptional. About $75.

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Luscher-Ballard Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley. 200 cases produced. Excellent. About $80.

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Lutum La Rinconada Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013, Sta. Rita Hills. Production was 225 cases. Excellent. About $50.

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MacPhail Wightman House Pinot Noir 2013, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County. Production was 100 cases. Exceptional. About $55.

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Frederic Mallo Vielles Vignes Rosacker Riesling 2010, Alsace Grand Cru. Excellent. About $23.

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Merisi Wines Denner Vineyard Petite Sirah 2013, Lake County. 100 cases produced. About $35.

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Chateau Montelena Riesling 2015, Potter Valley. About $25.

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Chateau La Nerthe 2014, Chateauneuf-du-Pape blanc. 40 percent each grenache blanc and roussanne, 10 percent each clairette and bourboulenc. Excellent. About $65.

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Patz & Hall Vineyard Hyde Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012, Carneros-Napa Valley. Excellent. About $70.

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Pine Ridge Le Petit Clos Chardonnay 2013, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley. Excellent. About $75.

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Pol Roger Extra Cuvee de Reserve Brut Rose 2004, Champagne, France. Excellent. About $80-$100.

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Prieure de Montezargues 2014, Tavel Rose. 55 percent red and white grenache, 30 percent cinsault, 13 percent clairette, 2 percent melange of syrah, mourvedre, carignane and bourboulenc. Excellent. About $24.

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Red Newt Cellars Tango Oaks Vineyard Riesling 2013, Finger Lakes, New York. About $24.

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Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Josephshoff Riesling Kabinett 2012, Mosel, Germany. Excellent. About $23.

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Robert Mondavi Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Napa Valley. 81 percent cabernet sauvignon, 13 percent cabernet franc, 2 percent each malbec, petit verdot and merlot. Excellent. About $60.

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Rombauer Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Napa Valley. Excellent. About $24.

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Saxon Brown Durell Vineyard Hayfield Block Pinot Noir 2012, Sonoma Coast. Fewer than 100 cases. Exceptional. About $48.

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Sedition Chenoweth Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County. 230 cases produced. Exceptional. About $75.

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The Seed Malbec 2014, Altamira District, Uco Valley, Argentina. 59 cases made. Excellent. About $60.

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Smith-Madrone Chardonnay 2013, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley. Production was 806 cases. Exceptional. About $32.

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Stonestreet Estate Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County. Exceptional. About $35.

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Stony Hill Chardonnay 2013, Napa Valley. Production was 1,852 cases. Exceptional. About $45.

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Three Sticks Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013, Sonoma Coast. 585 cases produced. Exceptional. About $65.

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Tongue Dancer Wines Pinot Noir 2013, Sonoma Coast. Production was 125 cases. Exceptional. About $45.

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Troon Vineyards Vermentino Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Applegate Valley, Southern Oregon. 80 percent vermentino, 20 percent sauvignon blanc. 176 cases produced. Excellent. About $24.

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Two Shepherds Catie’s Corner Viognier 2014, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County. Production was 75 cases. Exceptional. About $26.

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Two Shepherds Pastoral Blanc 2013, Russian River Valley. 12.9% alc. Roussanne 50%, marsanne 25%, viognier 13%, grenache blanc 6%, grenache gris 6%. Production was 100 cases. Exceptional. About $30.

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Two Shepherds Trimble Vineyard Carignan Rosé 2015, Mendocino County. Production was 50 cases. Exceptional. About $22.

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Williams Selyem Westside Road Neighbors Pinot Noir 2014, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County. Exceptional. About $55.

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Guillaume Sorbe “Les Poëte” 2014, Quincy, Loire Valley, France. Sauvignon blanc. Exceptional. About $30.

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WindRacer Pinot Noir 2012, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County. 1,007 cases produced. Exceptional. About $50.
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Zena Crown Vineyard Conifer Pinot Noir 2013, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon. Production was 240 cases. Excellent. About $75.

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I endured technical problems Sunday and Monday, so I was delayed in getting this edition of Weekend Wine Notes posted, which really should happen on Saturday, so I feel like a freaking failure all the way around. But everything is fine now! I bought a router and didn’t actually need it, so Best Buy better take it back, because it cost a lot! Anyway, moving along, following the last Wine of the Day, which was a sauvignon blanc, I thought it might be a good idea to visit more sauvignon blancs, so here are 14, most from California, but one from Italy and several from Chile. The vintage is predominantly 2015, and the majority of these wines ought to be consumed within the next six months or so or certainly by the end of 2017. As usual with the Weekend Wine Notes, I offer incisive and trenchant reviews based on the scribbles in my notebooks, avoiding mention of technical, historical and geographical elements for the sake of immediacy. Enjoy and consume with moderation. These wines were samples for review.
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Angeline Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Sonoma County. 13.8% alc. Pale gold with green highlights; lime peel, caraway, grapefruit, celery leaf; slightly tropical with guava and jasmine; fresh, clean, lively and delicately-wrought. A good bet for a well-made bargain sauvignon blanc. Very Good+. About $15.
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Armador Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Casablanca Valley, Chile. 13% alc. From Odfjell Vineyards, certified organic. Very pale gold; fennel and celery seed, lime peel and lemongrass; quite lively, even exuberant, feels filled with sunlight and fresh air; hints of leafy fig and dried thyme; lovely lithe limpid texture. Excellent. About $14, an Amazing Bargain.
Epic Wines and Spirits, Capitola, Calif.
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Davis Bynum Jane’s Vineyard Virginia’s Block Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Russian River Valley. 14.8% alc. The palest of very pale gold hues; roasted lemon, lime peel and lemongrass; leafy and herbal with a touch of fig; big hit of flint and damp seashell, bracing and saline, with swingeing acidity, a prickly and briery element and a chiseled, faceted finish. Always a favorite in our house. Excellent. About $25.
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Dry Creek Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Dry Creek Valley. 14.5% alc. I’m going to mention the stainless steel and oak proportion here because it’s interesting: 92% stainless steel, 8% chestnut, acacia and French oak barrels; the details matter, n’est-ce pas? Very pale straw-gold; aromas of grass and hay, pea shoot and fennel, lime peel and grapefruit; very dry but a texture nicely balanced between lush and crisp; a few minutes in the glass bring in beguiling notes of fig and roasted lemon, gardenia and gunflint, spiced pear and heather; the finish is all limestone, flint and green tea. Excellent. About $17, representing Great Value.
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Flora Springs Soliloquy Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Oakville, Napa Valley. 14.4% alc. Pale straw-gold color; polished, honed and elegant; lime peel and tangerine, hints of celery leaf and lemongrass, a warm spicy bouquet; limestone and chalk, a soothing talc-like texture riven by bright acidity; the distraction if the oak that asserts itself from mid-palate back through the finish, muting the otherwise charming character. Very Good+. About $50.
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Galerie Naissance Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Napa Valley. 13.5% alc. Very pale, almost colorless; heady scents of lilac and gardenia, tangerine and almond skin, lime peel and lemongrass; though very dry the wine is lively and vibrant, offering a dense, talc-like powdery texture riven by keen acidity; heaps of chalk and limestone in the background, beautiful shape and elegance over a stony foundation. Both alluring and serious. Excellent. About $30.
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Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Sonoma County. 13.8% alc. Pale gold color; a verdant and meadowy sauvignon blanc, offering notes of kiwi and lime peel, celery seed and tangerine, opening to peach, lemongrass and spiced pear, all encompassed by a leafy, summery floral element; a lovely light, lithe texture jazzed by a Sancerre-like snap of gunflint and graphite; heaps of limestone in the finish are softened by a furze of dried herbs. Real class and style. Excellent. About $22.
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Marco Felluga Russiz Superiore Sauvignon 2015, Collio, Italy. 13.5% alc. Very pale straw-yellow hue; fairly standard array of lime peel and lemongrass, celery seed and fennel, but presented with unusual verve and fervor, and with interesting hints of lychee and yellow plum; suave and silken texture buoyed by an increasingly element of limestone and flint. Very Good+. About $28.
Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, Calif.
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Morgan Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Monterey County. 13.5% alc. Pale gold color; green bean and gooseberry, lime peel and grapefruit, unfurls green and leafy veils of pea shoot and preserved lemon, ginger and quince and an intriguing earthy component of wet leaves and moss; lively, even pert acidity, crystalline clarity and appeal, all founded on a burgeoning element of limestone and flint minerality. Feels essential and vital in the glass. Excellent. About $17, representing Great Value.
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Oak Farm Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Lodi. 13% alc. Very pale gold with a faint green cast; lime peel and peach, lemongrass with hints of dried grasses and herbs; quite dry, crisp and snappy; seashell-flint minerality with a hint of bracing salinity; vital, vibrant finish. Charming and eminently drinkable. 579 cases. Very Good+. About $20.
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Quivira Fig Tree Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Dry Creek Valley. …% alc. Pale gold hue; warm sunny figs and lemongrass, pears and lime peel with back-notes of grapefruit and yellow fruit and flowers; polished, suave and supple texture, lively and alluring but not tart or pert; a scintillating dry limestone character with overall lovely balance and presence. Excellent. About $24.
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Ritual Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Casablanca Valley, Chile. 14% alc. Palest of pale gold hues; another meadowy sauvignon blanc, with notes of lemongrass and broom, heather and hay under lime peel, pea-shoot, spiced pear and celery seed; very dry, multiple layers of limestone and flint etched by bright acidity; a finish that seethes with bracing salinity and grapefruit pith. Very Good+. About $20.
Imported by Huneeus Vintners, Rutherford, Calif.
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Rodney Strong Charlotte’s Home Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Northern Sonoma. 13.5% alc. Pale gold color; bright, clean and fresh, taut and sinewy; lime peel, pink grapefruit, gooseberry and tangerine; slightly dense talc-like texture, soft and appealing but permeated by plangent and resonant limestone minerality; very dry; a few moments in the glass bring in hints of lilac, honeydew melon, almond blossom and chalk. Excellent. About $17, representing Great Value.
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Stonestreet Estate Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County. 13.5% alc. Very pale gold hue; a leafy, meadowy sauvignon blanc manifesting notes of hay, heather and dried thyme underlying hints of gooseberry, lime peel and grapefruit, with yellow fruit and flowers; practically pulses with bright acidity and briary, briny elements; lovely texture, heft and presence, perfect poise and elegance, graceful yet dynamic; a dominant limestone and flint finish is garnished with roasted lemon and green tea. A wonderful achievement. Exceptional. About $35.
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Just because the country is held firm in the grip of a Polar Vortex or Siberian Express or, as we like to say, “a damned freaking cold deep 3774bernardus-griva-vineyard-sauvignonfreeze,” doesn’t mean that My Readers should eschew white wines. I mean, we’re still eating such fare as seafood risottos and seafood soups and we still need a better-than-decent quaff to sip while cooking. Here’s today’s candidate, the Bernardus Winery Griva Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Arroyo Seco, a spiffy, spanking-fresh sauvignon blanc that we drank last night with a Filipino chicken and rice stew called lugaw. While Bernardus is in Carmel, the grapes for this sauvignon blanc come from a vineyard in the Arroyo Seco AVA, in Monterey County’s Salinas Valley. Made in stainless steel but with a dollop of oak-aged semillon, the wine offers a delicate pale gold hue and entrancing aromas of lime peel, tangerine and orange blossom, fig, talc and camellia. It’s quite dry but juicy with citrus and stone-fruit flavors that are slightly leafy and grassy and energized by bright acidity and a limestone element that burgeons from mid-palate back through the finish furnished with heather and grapefruit rind. Delicious and fun to drink. The alcohol level is an exceedingly comfortable 12.8 percent.Winemaker was Dean DeKorth. Drink now through 2017. Excellent. About $22.

A sample for review from the local distributor.

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Sometimes, friends, you just have to have one of those snappy, slap-yo-face, fresh-as-raindrops sauvignon blanc wines from New Zealand. Here’s a terrific example. Made all in stainless steel, the Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc 2015, from New Zealand’s well-known Marlborough region, lying at the extreme northeastern corner of the South Island, offers a shimmering medium straw hue and scintillating aromas of grapefruit, lime peel, pea shoot, celery seed and lemongrass. This one is as crisp and vibrant as they come, powered by squeaky-bright acidity and a burgeoning element of damp limestone and flint. Flavors of roasted lemon and spiced pear reveal notes of sunny, leafy figs with a hint of mango, these flowing with lithe and dynamic verve across the palate. It all just makes you pretty happy to drink. 13 percent alcohol. Winemaker was Sam Smail. Now through 2018 as a highly effective aperitif or with seafood risottos, grilled fish or goat cheeses. Excellent. About $20, representing Good Value.

The wine is distributed in the USA by Gallo. A sample for review.

Cadaretta is the upper-level label of Middleton Family Wines, a business that includes the cadaretta-sbClayhouse (Paso Robles) and Adobe (Central Coast) brands from California; Buried Cane (Washington State); and the imports Ad Lib (Larry Cherubino’s label from Western Australia) and MFW Wines of Italy. Wine of the Day, No. 192, is the Cararetta SBS 2015, from Washington’s Columbia Valley AVA. This is a blend of 89 percent sauvignon blanc and 11 percent semillon made entirely in stainless steel. The color is very pale straw-gold; the fresh, clean, many-layered and frankly beautiful bouquet peels back notes of lime peel, roasted lemon and spiced pear; grapefruit, lemongrass and green tea; caraway and melon; dried thyme and tarragon. Pretty darned heady stuff, all right, yet subtle, too, not extravagant or flamboyant. A lovely svelte, lithe texture is riven by star-bright acidity and bolstered by a distinct limestone and flint edge, all at the service of tasty elements of stone-fruit, fig and heather. 13.5 percent alcohol. A tremendously appealing expression of the grape, for drinking through the Summer of 2017. Excellent. About $23.

A sample for review.

As far as white wines are concerned, Spring and Summer tend to be the domains of bright, light, delicate wines that go down easy as aperitifs while we’re sitting out on the porch or patio or lounging in a bosky dell on a frolicsome picnic. Nothing wrong with those scenarios at all. Now that the weather is in transition, however, when there’s a touch of chilly, rainy uncertainty in the air and our thoughts are sliding toward more substantial fare than cucumber and watercress sandwiches — no crusts, please! — the logical choice would be white wines with a bit more heft, flavor and savor. The 10 examples under review today provide those qualities in diverse ways, because they are, naturally, diverse wines. Grapes include sauvignon blanc, riesling, roussanne and marsanne, vermentino, verdicchio and trebbiano. Some of the wines saw no oak while others received extended barrel aging. Their points of origin range from various spots in Italy and several regions in California, from Alsace in France to Pfalz in Germany. Above all, and I cannot emphasize this note too strenuously, every one of these wines was a joy to drink, first because they are so different each to each, and second because in their eloquent variations they reflect integrity of intentions in the vineyard and the winery, an integrity dedicated to the expressiveness of a location and grape varieties. Each wine mentioned here made me feel as if I were sipping liquid gold.
Unless otherwise noted, these wines were samples for review.
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The pale gold Arrow&Branch Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Napa Valley, performs that gratifying task of balancing the utmost in a delicate, elegant character with a vivacious, appealing personality. Aromas of pea shoot, heather, cucumber and lime peel are infused with damp limestone and flint, roasted lemon and lemon balm and a hint of raspberry leaf. The wine is bright and crisp, dense but paradoxically ethereal, and it opens to touches of almond skin and pear skin, waxy white flowers and a hint of the wildly exotic and tropical. All of these exuberant elements are handily restrained by brisk acidity and the mild spicy/woodsy aura of a touch of French oak. 14.1 percent alcohol. A truly beautiful sauvignon blanc, made by Jennifer Williams, for consuming through 2018 or ’19. Exceptional. About $35.
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barmes
The color of the Domaine Barmès-Buecher “Hengst” Riesling Grand Cru 2012, Alsace, is a slightly brassy medium gold hue of intense purity; the bouquet unfurls multiple layers of nuance as Platonic ripeness invests aromas of peach and quince touched with hints of lychee, musk-melon and apricot nectar, yielding to apples, green tea and lemongrass and an intriguing, lingering note of petrol. The wine is moderately sweet at entry but segues to dryness as it flows across the palate, reaching a finish that feels profoundly minerally with elements of iodine-washed limestone and flint. Between those points, a lithe silky texture is emboldened by vibrant acidity, a strain of savory, woodsy spices and macerated stone-fruit flavors. 14 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2020 to ’24. Excellent. About $36.
Imported by Petit Pois/Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, N.J.
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Hungarians are justly proud of their indigenous grape, furmint. Tasting through a few furmintexamples recently, I was impressed by the grape’s versatility and its capacity for making wines that are seemingly light-filled and weightless in affect yet layered in complexity of detail and dimension. The Béres Tokaji Furmint 2014, Szaraz, displays a light golden-yellow hue and subtle aromas of ripe lemons, apples and pears; a few moments in the glass unveil notes of straw, heather, thyme and peach. A particular sense of balance between the sweet ripeness of the stone-fruit flavors and the dry, bright acid and mineral structure creates an immensely satisfying effect, the entire package driving leisurely to a limestone and flint-packed finish. 13 percent alcohol. The sort of wine that makes you happy to drink. Now through 2018 or ’19. Winemaker was János Jarecsni. Excellent. About $19, representing Good Value.
Imported by New Wines of Hungary,
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What a beauty this is! The Weingut Eugen Müller Forster Mariengarten Riesling Kabinett, forster2013, Pfalz, is a wild, meadowy, golden, sleek and crystalline riesling whose very pale straw hue almost shimmers in the glass; notes of peaches, lime peel and lychee feel a little slate-y and loamy, though there’s nothing earth-bound about the wine’s delicacy and elegance. A few moments in the glass bring in hints of green apples and cloves, while a sweet entry retains a modest claim of a fairly dry, limestone-etched finish. 9.5 percent alcohol. Now through 2021 to ’23. Excellent. About $19, a local purchase and Real Value.
A Terry Theise Estate Selection, Skurnik Wines, New York.
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gallica
Rosemary Cakebread made only 180 cases of her Gallica Albarino 2015, Calaveras County, so you should call the winery right now and try to reserve a few bottles. The grapes derive from the Rorick Heritage Vineyard, located at about 2,000 feet elevation in the Sierra Foothills; the wine — including a touch of muscat blanc — aged nine months in stainless steel tanks and neutral French oak barrels. A pale yellow-gold hue presages aromas of yellow plums and pears, figs, acacia and heather that evolve to a slightly leafy, grassy quality. What a joyful, lively, expressive personality this wine offers; the texture is supple, suave and elegant, all elements defined by balance and seamlessness yet edging to wild, spicy, savory qualities in the chiseled finish. 14 percent alcohol. Now through 2019 or ’20. Excellent. About $36.
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The Garofoli “Podium” 2013, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore, podiumincorporates no oak in its making and is all the better for it. Produced in Italy’s Marche region by a family that has been making wine since 1871, this 100 percent verdicchio offers a pure medium gold hue and ravishing aromas of tangerine and peach, jasmine and almond skin and — how else to say it? — rain on Spring flowers, yes, it’s that incredibly fresh and appealing. It’s also, somewhat paradoxically, quite dry and spare though warm, spicy and a bit earthy, enlivened by keen acidity and a scintillating quality of limestone and flint minerality. Again, it’s a wine that feels very satisfying to drink. 13 percent alcohol. Now through 2018 or ’19. Excellent. About $25.
Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa Calif.
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My reaction on seeing that this white wine aged 22 months in new French oak barriques was a big “Uh-oh.” I mean, friends, that’s a whole heap of new wood influence. However, in the trebbianoMasciarelli Marina Cveti? Trebbiano Riserva 2013, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, the eponymous winemaker manages to pull off a remarkable feat. The opening salvo is an attractive bright medium straw gold color; then come notes of candied tangerine and grapefruit peel, ginger and quince, cloves and a sort of light rain on dusty stones effect; after a few moments, the wine unfolds hints of lemon balm and roasted lemon, lilac and lavender. Yes, it’s pretty heady stuff. On the palate, this Trebbiano Riserva ’13 feels vital and vibrant, rich and succulent with spiced and slightly baked peach and apricot flavors, though its opulence is held in check by chiming acidity and a resonant chiseled limestone element. You feel the oak in the wine’s framework and foundation but as a supporting factor that lends shape and suppleness rather than as a dominant element. 14 percent alcohol. Quite an achievement for drinking through 2023 to ’25. Excellent. About $43.
Imported by Masciarelli Wine Co., Weymouth, Mass.
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E&J Gallo acquired distribution rights to the venerable family-operated Soave producer Pieropan in March 2015, adding it to Allegrini and Poggio al Tesoro in the company’s Luxury Wine Group. The Pieropan Soave Classico 2015 is a blend of 85 percent garganega grapes and 15 percent trebbiano di Soave, derived from certified organic vineyards. The wine saw no oak but fermented and matured in glass-line cement tanks. The color is pale yellow-gold; aromas of roasted lemons and spiced pears are bright, clean and fresh and permeated by notes of almond blossom, acacia and grapefruit rind. The wine delivers amazing heft and presence for the price category, yet it remains deft and light on its feet; brilliant acidity keeps it lively on the palate, while a saline limestone quality lends depth and poignancy. 12 percent alcohol. Drink through 2018. Excellent. About $20, representing Great Value.
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Steve Hall made the Troon Vineyard Longue Carabine 2014, Applegate Valley, Southern troon-carabineOregon, by co-fermenting different lots of marsanne, viognier, vermentino and roussanne grapes, with slim dollops apparently (depending on what infomation you read) of sauvignon blanc and early muscat. The final proportions of the blend are 38.5 percent vermentino, 33 percent viognier, 27 marsanne and 1.5 roussanne; information as to oak aging, type of oak and length of time is not available. The wine is seriously complex and intriguing. The color is pale straw-gold; the whole effect is spare, high-toned and elegant, with hints of baked peaches and pears, hints of grapefruit, fennel and celery leaf, bee’s-wax, lanolin and flowering heather, all robed in a tremendous acid-and-mineral structure that creates a sense of vital dynamism. above depths of dusty, flinty loam. These elements take time to blossom, the wine being fairly reticent at first. 12.5 percent alcohol. Production was 163 cases. Now through 2020 to ’22. Excellent. About $34.
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The Two Shepherds Catie’s Corner Viognier 2014, Russian River Valley, offers a 2-shepspale straw-gold hue and beguiling, compelling aromas of jasmine and gardenia, peach and pear, bee’s-wax and lanolin over hints of lime peel and grapefruit pith; the wine sees only neutral French oak, a device that lends shape and suppleness to the structure without incurring undue wood influence. Riveting acidity and a remarkable shapeliness and heft in the texture give the wine tremendous personality and eloquence. Time in the glass bring in notes of heather and thyme, roasted lemon and sage, lemon balm and sour melon, all elements engaged in a remarkably poised feat of crystalline tension and resolution. 13.3 percent alcohol. Brilliant wine-making from William Allen. Now through 2018 or ’19. Production was 75 cases, so go online now. Exceptional. About $26.
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trione sb
I wrote last week about eight sauvignon blanc wines from Napa Valley. Here’s one from Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, that ought not to be missed. Half of the Trione Winery River Road Ranch Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Russian River Valley, aged four months in neutral French oak barrels — meaning used many times before — lending the wine subtlety, shape and suppleness without detonating a blatant woody influence. The color is shimmering pale gold; first come notes of lime and grapefruit, heather and lemongrass, followed by hints of lilac, talc and tangerine. On the palate, this sauvigvov blanc is sleek and chiseled, tart and sassy, powered by bright acidity and flush with limestone minerality that generates a burst of graphite and flint. Flavors tend toward leafy figs and yellow plums, permeated by ripe citrus and stone-fruit, all flowing to a finish packed with savory spice and a touch of grapefruit bitterness and every element etched with delicacy and elegance. Alcohol content is an eminently sensible 13.3 percent. Winemaker was Scot Covington. Now through 2018 or ’19. Excellent. About $23.

A sample for review.

Back in July, I used as a Wine of the Day the Rombauer Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Napa Valley, follow the link here for the review, a selection that could, of course, have fit right in with this group of eight sauvignon blanc wines, also from Napa valley. Based on these models and others I tasted over the past few years, I would say that the world-famous wine region should be as well-known for this white grape variety as for the red cabernet sauvignon, of which it happens to be a parent (along with cabernet franc). Today I offer brief reviews of six sauvignon blanc wines from 2015 and two from 2014. The ratings divide into one Exceptional, six Excellent and one Very Good+. Scoring aside, however, this was a satisfying and exciting group of wines to taste, and I encourage my readers to stock up on such wines or order them in restaurants. These reviews are quick and incisive, ripped, as it were, from the pages of my notebooks and simply fleshed out to complete a full profile of each wine. Typically in the Weekend Wine Notes I eschew technical information, but for two of these selections I include a bit of data that I found interesting. Enjoy!

These wines were samples for review.
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AcumenSauvignonBlanc2013copy1111
Acumen Wines Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Napa Valley. 14.45 alc. Very pale gold; leafy and grassy, celery seed and caraway; lime peel and grapefruit, with undercurrents of limestone and flint; a few minutes in the glass bring in intriguing notes of preserved lemon and lemon balm; a suave saugivnon blanc with plenty of verve and energy, a pleasing texture balanced between softness and crispness and a fluid spice-and-limestone infused finish. Super attractive. Now through 2017 or ’18. Excellent. About $30.
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CLSauvBlanc15Ft_300
Cliff Lede Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Napa Valley. 14.4% alc. Pale gold color; interesting regimen in the winery: 52% French mainly neutral oak barrels, 42% stainless steel tanks, and 6% concrete eggs, no malolactic fermentation; elegant yet assertive in character, with hints of lemon rind and curd, jasmine and honeysuckle, quince and ginger; undertones of sunny, leafy figs, heather and meadow flowers, and a bell-note of currant at the center; an absolutely lovely texture poised between a soft, slightly powdery effect and the propulsion of vivid acidity and flint-chalk minerality. Now through 2018 or ’19. Excellent. About $25.
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2015-Sauvignon-Blanc-edit1
Ehlers Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2015, St. Helena, Napa Valley. NA% alc. Very very pale straw-gold hue; so attractive and appealing in body and presentation and feeling quite deliberately and thoughtfully wrought; roasted lemon and lemon balm, tangerine and honeydew, heather and flowery meadows; pert acidity and burgeoning limestone minerality lend an almost glittering quality to the palate; a soft, powdery texture that’s still lithe and supple; citrus and stone-fruit flavors — notes of grapefruit and peach, with a hint of greengage — are slightly leafy and grassy, all devolving to a delicate, elegant finish. Now through 2018 to 2020. Excellent. About $28.
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2014_napa_valley_sauvignon-blanc_label
Flora Springs Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Napa Valley. 14.4% alc. Very pale gold hue; the most tropical of this selection, with notes of mango and passion fruit and touches of lime peel, peach and nectarine; a sleek and lively sauvignon blanc that unfolds a soft sfumato effect heightened by a saline and savory character, poised over layers of limestone and chalk minerality. Starts simple and direct and builds to surprising complexity; the wine aged 9 months in a combination of concrete and stainless steel tanks, French oak barrels and stainless steel drums. Now through 2018 or ’19. Excellent. About $25.
Label date is one vintage behind.
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gamble
Gamble Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Napa Valley. 13.1% alc. Pale gold color; lime peel, nectarine, talc and lilac; hints of celery seed and fennel, lychee and almond skin; some moments in the glass bring in elements of roasted lemon, ginger and quince and penetrating notes of gunflint and graphite; lively and vital on the palate, with a lovely talc-like texture riven by bright acidity and a scintillating limestone quality; stone-fruit flavors are slightly leafy, with a touch of fig in the background; a long, lithe, minerally finish. Really beautiful tone, presence and balance. Now through 2019 to 2020. Exceptional. About $25, a Bargain at the Price.
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FB-14-WITH-ALC
Grgich Hills Estate Fumé Blanc 2014, Napa Valley. 14.1% alc. Pale gold color; generously woven notes of mango and pear, lilac and lemongrass, lemon balm and lemon curd, all wrapped around an intense core of leafiness and heather, fig and graphite; a whisper of oak adds hints of woodsy spice; very dry, with a fleet arrow of acidity and a scintillating limestone character; penetrating personality and august character in a perfectly balanced package. Now through 2018 to ’20. Excellent. About $31.
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Priest Ranch Sauvignon Blanc
Priest Ranch Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Napa Valley. 14.3% alc. Pale gold hue; very pleasing effect of lime peel, grapefruit and gooseberry, fennel and celery seed, talc and jasmine and leafy fig; jazzy and snappy, the most New Zealandish of these sauvignon blancs, but more subdued than those models can be; very dry, clean and bright, lithe and fluent, and overall very appealing. Now through 2017. Very Good+. About $22.
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2015-SauvBlanc-Image
Whitehall Lane Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Napa Valley. 13.5% alc. Very pale gold; subtle and nuanced, with hints of peach and mango, celery seed, lemongrass and spiced pear; a little airing unfurls notes of graphite and gunflint, lilac and celery leaf and a touch of ripe yellow plum; quite dry, sleek and polished, lithe and supple, animated by keen acidity and avid limestone minerality; lovely presence and weight. Now through 2017 or ’18. Excellent. About $22.
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Yes, we do have a canine named Quincy, our first Carolina Dog, the Prince of our Pack, now about quincy awakeeight years old. You can see in this image that he is very handsome and elegant. The Quincy under consideration today, however, is not our dog but the small wine region in the eastern portion of France’s Loire Valley. Quincy forms part of a group of regions that produce dry white wine from the sauvignon blanc grape. The best-known of these are Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, which face each other from opposite banks of the Loire River — Sancerre on the west, Pouilly-Fumé on the east. Further inland from that great curve of the river are Menetou-Salon, attached like a tail to Sancerre; and Quincy and Reuilly, lying together like spoons. Unlike Sancerre, Meneton-Salon and Reuilly, but like Pouilly-Fumé, only white wine is made in Quincy; the others also produce red and rosé wines. The region is not pronounced like John Quincy Adams (or our dog Quincy), but as an approximation of “can’t see,” going very light on the “t.”

No one, it seems, writes about the sauvignon blanc wines of Quincy without using the word “racy,” and I’ll admit that my impression of these five models — all samples for review — was of vigorous nervosity and energy driven by tremendous acidity and limestone minerality with a glittering honed edge. I found all of these wines, to greater or lesser degree, to be eloquent expressions of the sauvignon blanc grape, as well as excellent values. They are all Worth a Search.
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duret
The Quincy 2014 from Domaine Pierre Duret offers a pale gold hue and scintillating aromas of lime peel and lime leaf, lemongrass and roasted lemon, opening to notes of quince and ginger, celery seed and fennel, all uplifted by a heady tone of gunflint. It feels transparent on the palate, light and lithe, its grassy citrus and stone-fruit flavors animated by keen acidity and bright limestone minerality. 12.5 percent alcohol. Now through 2018. Excellent. About — ready for this? — $14, representing Great Value.
Imported by Fruit of the Vines, Long Island City, N.Y.
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sorbe
The pale gold color of the Quincy 2015, Jean-Michel Sorbe, seems a prophecy of its delicate, finely-spun character, in which elements of lime peel and lemongrass, savory figs and damp sunny leaves are elegantly poised against riveting acidity and limestone-chalk minerality; plenty of stones and bones really jazz up the taste-buds, though the final assessment lies on the side of elegance and balance. 13 percent alcohol. Now through 2019. Excellent. About $16.
Imported by T Edward Wines, New York.
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bertin
The eldest of this five wines, the Quincy 2013, Sophie Bertin, displays a light gold hue and entrancing ripe, smoky, spicy aromas of yellow plum, baked pear, roasted grapefruit and Earl Gray tea; the wine feels ripe and golden on the palate, like Platonic fresh apples and apple tart, though it’s quite dry and riven by vibrant acidity and a resonant limestone element that emerges on the spice-drenched finish. 12.5 percent alcohol. Now through 2017 or ’18. Excellent. About $16.
Solstars LLC, New York.
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coudray
I have no argument with the nom de guerre “Une pointe d’Authenticité” for Domaine du Coudray’s Quincy 2014; it seems completely authentic to me, though also highly individual. The color is pale straw-gold; peppery — white pepper and watercress — aromas of green pea, papaya and quince seem on point, as well as notes of hay and new-mown grass, and more exotic hints of tangerine, talc and lilac. The body is light, lithe, well-knit, and there’s a citric tang to the fleet acidity; the vibrant finish is subtly packed with limestone and flint minerality. 13 percent alcohol. Now through 2018 or ’19. Excellent. About $25.
Imported by Savio Soares Selections, Brooklyn, N.Y.
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poete
Every aspect of the Quincy “Les Poëte” 2014, from Guillaume Sorbe, feels impeccable — the tone, the balance, structure and texture; the color is pale straw-gold, a hue that seems to presage aromas of peaches and pears, quince and ginger, roasted lemon and lemon balm; the sauvignon blanc grape’s grassy-herbal character is present, especially in a hay-thyme-fennel quality, but as a background to the riper qualities. Then you feel the wine’s terrific verve and presence on the palate, the chiseled and faceted limestone and flint minerality, the bright, vivid acidity; all propelled toward a generous mineral-and-herb packed finish. 12.5 percent alcohol. An extraordinary expression of the grape. Now through 2022 to ’24. Exceptional. About $30.
Selected by DNS Wines for Telenteny Imports, New York.
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Unlike designations for, say, Sonoma County or Mendocino County, the Napa County indication on a sterlingwine label is rare. That’s because the world-famous Napa Valley AVA and its sub-AVAs occupy most of Napa County, from top to bottom and side to side, except for Lake Berryessa and an area in the northeast, beyond the Chiles Valley sub-AVA. So the designation on the Sterling Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Napa County, probably involves a cross-county origin for the grapes, with Napa County providing the preponderance. This is a sauvignon blanc that offers terrific character and personality for the price. The color is very pale gold; aromas of tangerine, lime peel and pink grapefruit are permeated by notes of grass, hay and heather, wrapped in an intensity of talc, graphite and gunflint. Give this a few minutes, and it unfurls hints of pea-shoot and caraway, fig and sun-warmed leaves. A nicely powdery texture bathes the palate, as well as juicy citrus and stone-fruit flavors, but riveting acidity brings liveliness and crispness, while the finish dredges from a deep grounding in limestone minerality. 13.5 percent alcohol. Now through 2017 as a pert and sassy aperitif or with grilled fish or seafood, chicken salad or shrimp salad. Excellent. About $18.

A sample for review.

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