Riesling


Here’s a German riesling for true lovers of German rieslings. The Heitlinger Tiefenbacher Schellenbrunnen Riesling Trocken 2014, Baden, hails from the town of Tiefenbach; the vineyard is Schellenbrunnen, designated Grosses Gewachs, something akin to a Grand Cru in Burgundy or First Growth in Bordeaux. This classification is indicated on the label by the “GG” emblem. The color is very pale, a shimmering light straw-gold hue; aromas of green apples and spiced pears are highlighted by penetrating notes of limestone, petrol and gunflint, this heady amalgam unfurling hints of peach and lychee, heather and hay. At slightly more than two-and-a-half years old, this tense, taut and vibrant riesling has attained a state of pure minerality on the palate, where it defines the notion of “bone-dry”; in fact, there’s something bony about its structure, in the sense, for example, that we consider high cheekbones — especially in women — a sign of elegance and breeding, yet the texture delivers a touch of talc-like softness that keeps the whole project from being forbidding; austere it is, yes, particularly on the whip-lash, chiseled finish, but not characterized by Olympian detachment. A few minutes in the glass free up scents of jasmine, honeysuckle and lemongrass. This is, in other words, a captivating, even thrilling riesling that delivers pinpoint and crystalline virtues at every level of its varietal nature. 12.5 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2022 to ’25. Exceptional. About $30.

Imported by WineWise, Oakland, Calif. A sample for review.

“Orange wine” became a category, a trend, an obsession in certain small circles 10 or 15 years ago. The concept of troonfermenting white grapes on the skins — hence the pale orange color — runs contrary to the usual practice, in which the juice and skins are whisked away from each other, so the wine takes on the familiar hues of pale or medium straw or gold. Fermenting white grapes on the skins, about which a great deal of ink was spilled or keyboards mangled for a fervent period of time, seems to have lost its controversial and partisan allure, so winemakers can decide to make an orange wine without subscribing to a list of demands or pledging allegiance to a philosophy laid down by fanatical critics. For those consumers who have never tried an orange wine, I offer today the Troon Vineyard Whole Grape Ferment Riesling 2016, from Oregon’s Applegate Valley appellation. Foot-trod, fermented with native yeasts, the wine — Troon’s first venture into orangeness — spent a bare three months in neutral French oak barrels. It’s unlike any riesling you ever encountered. The color is a kind of pale copper-topaz hue; at first, the wine is pure apples and in fact smells rather like cider; then it expands with notes of orange rind and spiced pear and a sherry-like tendency toward cloves and roasted/salted almonds. The wine is quite dry, animated by brisk acidity, and organized around a structure that while delicate and lithe feels almost tannic. From mid-palate back through the finish, it’s dominated by elements of quince marmalade infused with ginger, candied grapefruit rind and a touch of green olive. 12 percent alcohol. Not intended to make old bones, this unique wine should be consumed by the end of 2017. Winemaker was Steve Hall. Try with tapas and other salty and savory appetizers. Excellent. About $20, representing Good Value.

A sample for review.

loosen riesling spatlese
Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 2011, Mosel, Germany, is not the current release of this wine from the distinguished estate; that wine would be the 2015. However, I was sent the 2011 version by the generous people at Wines of Germany, who have supplied we with eight examples of German wines — two each quarter — for many years. How often do we get to try a wine with almost six years of development under its belt? Not too damned often! The name of the vineyard means “spice garden”; the village where it lies is indicated by the name Ürziger. The wine was made from vines that average 60 years old; it fermented and aged in a combination of stainless steel tanks and large old foudres. The color is glowing medium gold; aromas of slightly honeyed peaches and apricots are woven with notes of ginger and quince, cloves and sandalwood, smoke and loam. Though moderately sweet at the entry, the wine is riven by bright and shining acidity that segues to dryness from mid-palate back through the crystalline finish; it’s sleek and satiny, lovely, lively and delicate altogether, and the ripeness and luxury of baked stone-fruit flavors are balanced by damp stone-wet leaf earthiness at the core. 8 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2022 to ’25 with spicy Southeast Asian cuisine, charcuterie, pork chops with chilies, veal roasted with apples or, paradoxically, with the least sweet of desserts, a shortbread cookie, biscotti or fruit compote. Excellent. About $32.

Imported by Loosen Bros. USA, Oregon City, Oregon. A sample for review.

What more is there to say after “delightful and charming”? These are wines designed to provide your weekend — or the whole week, for that matter — with pleasure, deliciousness and elegance. We range widely in this post: Greece, Germany, Oregon, California, Long Island, Mendoza and Chablis. All single-variety wines, their grapes include assyrtiko, indigenous to the island of Santinori; pinot gris, not that common in the Rhineland; riesling and sauvignon blanc; gruner veltliner and pinot blanc; semillon and chardonnay. As usual in these Weekend Wine Notes, I largely eschew technical, historical and geographical data for the sake of quick, incisive reviews meant to pique your interest and whet your palate. With one exception, the wines were samples for review. Enjoy! (In moderation, of course.)
_______________________________________________________________________________________________
argyros
Estate Argyros Assyrtiko 2015, Santinori, Greece. 14% alc. This one will make you wish you were sitting in a little cafe looking out at the wine-dark Aegean Sea. It sees 20 percent French oak and was made from 150-year-old ungrafted vines. Very pale straw hue; dusty, dry marsh and seashore grasses and herbs; roasted lemon and faint spiced peach; quite ethereal and summery but displaying bracing acidity, notes of limestone-seashell minerality and an aura of yellow meadow flowers. Very Good+. About $25.
Athenee Importers and Distributors, Hempstead, N.Y.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________
binz
Weingut Binz Nackenheimer Pinot Gris Kabinett 2015, Rheinhessen, Germany. 12% alc. Bright straw-gold color; jasmine and camellia, preserved lemon and lemon balm, lime peel and pear skin; a hint of mango-like tropical character; crisp and tart, taut with vibrant acidity, very dry yet ripe and juicy on the palate; long, lean, lithe finish. Truly delightful and lots of personality. Excellent. About $14, marking Great Value.
Winesellers Ltd, Niles, Illinois.
______________________________________________________________________________________________________
brooks riesling
Brooks Riesling 2015, Willamette Valley, Oregon. 12.5% alc. Pale straw-gold; a direct hit of petrol and rubber eraser, followed by notes of heather and meadow, peach and lychee, with burgeoning hints of jasmine and quince and, after a few moments, ginger beer; limestone minerality offers a tremendous presence for a sense of dimension, without diminishing such fine details as bay leaf and nuances of mango and guava; the whole enterprise feels etched with bright, dry acidity. Just great. Excellent. About $20, representing Wonderful Value.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________
2016SauvBlanc
Freemark Abbey Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Napa Valley. 13.4% alc. Very pale straw-gold color; notes of lime peel, grapefruit, lemongrass and spiced pear, highlighted by hints of pea-shoots, hay and heather and undertones of sunny, leafy figs; really lively, vibrant, super drinkable, yet spare, dry, lithe, nothing flamboyant or over-done; a finish chiseled from limestone and flint but wreathed in lilac. Excellent. About $24.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Illahe Estate Gruner Veltliner 2016, Willamette Valley, Oregon. 13.5% alc. 650 cases. Very pale straw-gold; classic ILLAHEHEADER_famowned notes of hay, lilac and pine, with roasted lemons and yellow plums, a hint of lime peel and peach; very crisp, lively and engaging, with clean acidity and crystalline minerality cutting through a juicy, talc-like texture; terrific personality and appeal. Excellent. About $17.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________
2013ReservePinotBlanc300x300 (1)
Lieb Cellars Reserve Pinot Blanc 2015, North Fork of Long Island. 11.9% alc. And this one will make you wish you were sitting on a terrace in the Hamptons, gazing out at the cerulean Atlantic. Very very pale, almost invisible in the glass; notably clean, fresh and spare, quite crisp and vibrant, with delicate strains of peach and spiced pear, rose petals and candied lime peel and a tremendous volume of limestone minerality; slightly herbal and resinous finish. Lovely character. Excellent. About $22.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________
Una Seleccion de Ricardo Santos Semillon 2016, Mendoza, Argentina. 13.5% alc. Medium green-gold hue; sunny, leafy figs Santos_SM_NV_labeland guava, apple skin and lightly baked pear; a haze of smoke and jasmine; quite clean, spare and elegant, with a beguiling texture that balances moderate lushness of fruit with zinging acidity and flint-graphite minerality, though that aspect emerges on the finish. Wholly delightful and pleasingly complex for the price. Excellent. About $16, marking Good Value.
Global Vineyards, Berkeley, Calif.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________
chablis
Christian Simon Petit Chablis 2014, Chablis, France. 12% alc. Drinking beautifully at about two and a half years old. Pale straw-gold; shimmers with steel and limestone and a snap of gunflint, lustrous with lightly spiced lemon and apple; a texture both dense and powdery, lithe and supple; warms to subtle floral notes; lovely shape and resonance. Excellent. About $22, a local purchase.
Matinicus Wines, Beverley Hills, Fla.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________

The Saar Valley is one of the least-known of Germany’s wine-producing regions, though the name used to be integral in the overall suhwar13bottleappellation Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. (After 2007 called just Mosel to be consumer-friendly.) To make its acquaintance, I would suggest the St. Urbans-Hof Nik Weis Wiltinger Alte Reben Riesling 2015, classified as Kabinett Feinherb, meaning that it’s a bit drier than most Kabinett rieslings. “Wiltinger” is the village associated with the vineyard; “alte reben” indicates old vines, in this case dating back to the early 1900s, at least in some portions of the 22-acre parcel, which lies on iron-rich Devonian slate. Dry the wine might be, but, gosh, it’s a real sweetheart. The color is a pale straw-gold hue; beguiling aromas of jasmine and honeysuckle, peach and lime peel are wreathed with notes of heather and lemongrass, green apple and mint, this panoply segueing seamlessly to the palate, where elements of roasted lemon and spiced pear are bolstered by a burgeoning tide of limestone and flint that attains a state of pure minerality. All these qualities culminate in a blithe yet savory finish characterized by grapefruit rind and bracing smoky salinity. 10.5 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2020 or ’22 with grilled trout, fish and seafood stews and risottos or as a delightful aperitif while cooking. Nik Weis is owner and winemaker of St. Urban-Hof. Excellent. About $18, marking Great Value.

An R. Shack Selection, HB Wine Merhants, New York. A sample for review.

The Schlossberg vineyard in Alsace, designated Grand Cru, is a steep, terraced property on granitic soil farmed by the Blanck family on blancksustainable standards. The Paul Blanck Schlossberg Riesling Grand Cru 2012, Alsace, was fermented by natural yeasts in stainless steel and rested for a year in large wooden foudres, followed by two or three years in bottle before release. Have mercy, what a lovely wine! The color is pure medium gold; seamlessly woven aromas of quince and ginger, peach and lychee, green tea and lemongrass open to notes of lightly spiced pineapple and grapefruit and hints of jasmine and honeysuckle. Crystalline acidity chimes a course through a texture that’s part swooningly ripe, part school-teacher astringent, for an effect that’s vibrantly balanced and exciting; flavors of roasted lemon and lemon balm are spicy and savory, dry and refreshing, bolstered by a burgeoning coastline of saline limestone and flint minerality and a finish that trades in lime peel and a note of grapefruit rind bitterness. For a riesling of such depth and complexity, it’s remarkably clean, bright and light on its feet. 13 percent alcohol. Now through 2022 to ’25, giving the wine a chance to mellow and burnish. Excellent. About $34.

Imported by Skurnik Wines, New York. The label image is woefully laggard but is all that’s available. A sample for review.

2015-Brooks-Amycas-Bottle-Shot
Many white wine blends possess a certain kitchen sink quality, as in “Let’s throw in a bunch of different white grapes and see how they work together,” with the result that the wines smell and taste like nothing but generic white wine. That’s not the case with the Brooks Wines Amycas 2016, Willamette Valley, a blend of 44 percent riesling, 21 percent muscat, 18 pinot blanc, 10 gewurztraminer and 7 pinot gris, and those who are fans of the white blends of Alsace called Edelzwicker will recognize the ancestry. Made all in stainless steel, from grapes grown in Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards, this delightful wine offers a very pale gold hue and aromas of jasmine and honeysuckle, delicate notes of peaches and spiced pears, hay and heather, with a background of damp limestone. It’s terrifically appealing and animated, bright with crisp acidity and ethereally juicy with citrus and stone-fruit flavors — touches of tangerine, lime peel and quince — and while there’s just a slight lean toward sweetness, that aspect comes across more as ripeness and roundness on the palate. The limestone element burgeons from mid-palate back through the finish, which concludes on a welcome bracing note of grapefruit pith and sea-breeze salinity. 13.5 percent alcohol. Thoroughly charming and delicious. We drank a few glasses with seared salmon with a juniper rub and cous-cous with preserved lemon. Now through 2018. Excellent. About $18.

A sample for review.

meli-resling850x850
The Meli Riesling from Chile’s Maule Valley is always a favorite in our house. Made with no oak influence and fermented dry, the Meli Riesling 2016 is a notably clean, pure, fresh wine that shimmers in its pale pale gold robe and offers ethereal notes of peach, lime peel and honeysuckle buoyed on a persistent yet delicate aura of petrol and limestone. It’s very dry, crisp with chiming acidity and chiseled flint and chalk minerality, but the texture feels lithe and alluring. The finish is flush with pear, quince and crystallized ginger. 12 percent alcohol. The estate is owned by winemaker Adriana Cerda and her three adult sons, who bought the property is 2005. They make only two wines, this riesling and a carignan, both from 60-year-old vines. Ideal for picnics and porch or patio gatherings. Production was 500 cases, so mark this wine Worth a Search. Very Good+. About $14.

Imported by Global Vineyard, Berkeley, Calif. A sample for review.

The Smith-Madrone Riesling 2014, made by Charles and Stuart Smith high in Napa Valley’s Spring Mountain District, is a wine of smlabel_lr_ries_14unimpeachable authority and integrity. Fashioned from 42-year-old vines grown on steep slopes, the wine features piercing limestone and flint minerality, softened by notes of jasmine and honeysuckle, lime peel and lychee, gently spiced pears and lightly roasted peaches, all encompassed by the grape’s signature element of petrol or rubber eraser. Incisive acidity, like some energy source from deep in the earth, animates and etches the wine, keeping it brisk and lively in the mouth, though the texture embodies an ineffable and fabulously appealing talc-like softness; the tension between the chiseled nature of its mineral and acid components and the ripeness and allure of its fruit and mouth-feel is exquisite. This quite dry wine concludes in a finish that glitters with limestone and crystallized yellow fruit. 12.8 percent alcohol. If you know of a better riesling made in California, tell me (or send it to me). Drink now through 2020 to ’24, though I suspect that the wine’s tensile structure will sustain it to 2030. Production was 1,551 cases. Exceptional. About $30.

A sample for review.

The St. Urbans-Hof Nik Weis Wiltinger “Alte Reben” Kabinett Riesling 2015, Mosel, is a thrilling example of the riesling grape offered suhwar12frontat a remarkably fair price. How old are the old vines — alte reben? They originate in a vineyard established in the early 1900s, with some of the vines dating back that far. The soil sits on Devonian slate with a high iron-content that lends the wines a profound sense of minerality. The wine is made all in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts. The color is a shimmer of pale straw-gold; the wine is fresh and bright and tends toward brilliant immediacy of effect in its notes of jasmine and honeysuckle, peach and lime peel, lemongrass and green apple bolstered by a burgeoning element of flinty-limestone. The spicy stone-fruit flavors display a slightly honeyed element, but the wine is totally dry, enlivened with chiming acidity and crystalline minerality of intense focus and purity, all leading to a finish animated by graphite and grapefruit. The wine’s texture and structure, lithe and balletic, flow across the palate like liquid money. 10.5 percent alcohol. I cannot say enough how exciting this riesling was to drink, how much it felt like an embodiment of the spirit of the grapes and place where they were grown. No, it does not possess the depth of character of a “Grand Cru” vineyard, but, wow, what a fabulous, scintillating surface it conveys. It was perfect with a soup of cabbage, pork and shiitake mushrooms with lots of garlic and ginger that I made last night. Excellent. About $18, a Crazy, Raving Bargain.

An R. Shack Selection, for HB Wine Merchants, New York.

Next Page »