The Descendants Liegeois Dupont Red Mountain Les Gosses Vineyard Cuvée Marcel Dupont 2012, Washington state, boasts an Old World label and an Old World attitude in this 100 percent syrah wine that spent 14 months in French and American oak, 30 percent new barrels. There’s a lot of info on this label, but only on the back do we find a hint that the wine originates from Hedges Family Estate. The winery was instrumental in the application of Red Mountain for AVA status, supported by Kiona Vineyards, Blackwood Canyon Vintners, Sandhill Winery, Seth Ryan Winery and Terra Blanca Winery, granted by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) in 2001. Red Mountain, not so much a mountain as a steep, long southwest-facing slope of deep gravelly soil, lies within the Yakima Valley AVA, which is part of the sprawling Columbia Valley AVA; with only about 600 acres under cultivation, Red Mountain, known for its distinctively tannic and minerally cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah, wines of grain and substance, is the smallest of Washington state’s grape-growing regions. The wine’s name derives from the family names of Anne-Marie Hedges — Liegeois and Dupont — who is from the Champagne region and married Tom Hedges in 1976. The vineyard on Red Mountain is Les Gosses and the cuvée is named for Anne-Marie Hedges’ grandfather, a noted bon vivant (as my grand-children will say about me).

As for the wine, the color is dark ruby-purple with a slightly lighter magenta rim; aromas of dried blackberries, cherries and currants are permeated by notes of leather and loam, oolong tea and some heady rooty elixir; there’s a sense of dried mountain flowers, potpourri and heather, as well as a provocatively ripe, earthy, funky aspect. All of these qualities segue handily onto the palate, where they are buoyed by riveting acidity and profoundly deep, dense and dusty tannins and graphite minerality that assert a kind of Old World rusticity and structure. Nonetheless, there’s nothing rude or plodding about this wine, which, rather, displays a fleet-footed feeling of animation and vigor, as opposed to many New World syrahs that trade on succulence and opulence and high alcohol. 14 percent alcohol. Production was 2,902 cases. Drink through 2018 to ’22 with game birds, grilled leg of lamb, veal chops seared in a cast-iron skillet with garlic and rosemary. Excellent. About $27.

A sample for review.