Mendocino County


An overall satisfying, even in some instances great group of pinot noir wines, examples touching the winemaking borders limits of California, from Anderson Valley in the north to Santa Maria Valley in the south. Different interpretations, assuredly, diverse approaches to the notoriously difficult grape, but all feeling authentic and legitimate, though my taste runs to the more refined and elegant; and, blessedly, though the use of oak, of course, varies, none of these is burdened with or buried by too much wood. As usual in the Friday Wine Sips, I dispense with the minutiae of technical, historical and geographical data in order to deliver to my readers incisive and provocative yet thoughtful reviews, though I admit that a couple of these run a tad longer than I intend for this space, but then, come on, it’s pinot noir I’m writing about. With one exception, these were samples for review. The order is alphabetical. I’m posting this fairly late at night, but it’s still Friday in the USA.

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Belle Glos Clark & Telephone Pinot Noir 2009, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County. 14.4% alc. Elegant and sophisticated at first, but becomes more intense and concentrated, a real mouthful of smoky black cherry and rhubarb, violets and lilac, hints of briers and brambles, sassafras, roots and moss, i.e., quite earthy and then quite spicy; deeply satiny texture, lithe and supple too, flows coolly through the mouth; but you feel the tug of oak from mid-palate through the finish. For those who like a muscular pinot noir. Now through 2014 or ’15. Excellent. About $35.
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Foley Rancho Santa Rosa Pinot Noir 2009, Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey. 14.3% alc. Medium ruby color with a tinge of magenta; incredible perfume: beet-root and root beer, rose hips and strawberry leaf, violets and sandalwood, black cherry and red currants, and then a gentle surge of austerity in brambles and forest floor and finely-honed graphite; in the mouth, more serious than you might think, deeply earthy, multi-dimensioned, yet suave, sleek, supple, satiny; black tea with cloves and cinnamon, orange zest; black and red fruit flavors, a beautifully burnished, balanced, transparent finish. Beautiful. Now through 2014 or ’15. Excellent. About $40.
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Foursight “Zero” Pinot Noir 2009, Charles Vineyard, Anderson Valley, Mendocino. 13.5% alc. “Zero” does not mean no oak but second-year and older barrels. Gosh, what a lovely gentle delicate yet darkly radiant sifting of finely-meshed, cloud-like tannins; ripe and slightly macerated red currants, plums and mulberries; earthy briers, brambles and leather; and baskets of dried flowers and spices. A model of pinot noir purity and intensity. Perfect with a roasted chicken; I could drink it every day. 360 cases and Worth a Search. Excellent. About $38.
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Foursight Charles Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009, Anderson Valley, Mendocino. 13.9 % alc. So, how is the “regular” Foursight Pinot Noir ’09 different from its stablemate mentioned above? This is also quite alluring and exhibits similar purity and intensity of expression and character; fruit falls into the range of red and black cherries and cranberries with more emphasis on spice than flowers and just a haze of smoky (but not toasty) oak. As with the previous wine, balance and integration of all elements feel inextricable, tightly woven yet generous and expansive, a touch lithe and sinewy yet with a seductive satiny drape. Now through 2015 or ’16. 405 cases and also Worth a Search. Excellent. About $46.
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MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir 2009, Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey. 14.5% alc. Riveting purity and intensity; vivid yet somehow transparent or at least infinitely delicate black cherry and mulberry scents and flavors highlighted by subtle notes of sassafras and lightly toasted Asian spices; sleek, supple and a little spare, with flavors partaking more of plums as moments pass; a real dreamboat of a pinot noir with an understanding of its darker nature. Now through 2013 or ’14. 600 six-pack cases produced. Excellent. About $35.
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MacMurray Ranch Winemaker’s Block Selection Pinot Noir 2009, Russian River Valley. 14.5% alc. Loads of presence and tone yet ineffable balance and integration; lots going on, plums and more plums, with black and red cherries and hints of mulberry and rhubarb, undertones of cola and cloves, but it doesn’t feel fussy or overdone, all is smooth and finely-meshed; dense texture, satin transmuting to velvet but held in check by the ballast of earthy underbrush and a bit of foresty austerity. I like rather more reticence in pinot noir (as in the previous wine and the two Foursights), but this reveals thoughtful wine-making. Now through 2014 to ’16. Production was 600 six-pack cases. Excellent. About $60.
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Today, Friday Wine Sips offers 10 white wines and two reds, the whites mainly chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, mainly California but touching down in Italy, Spain and France, the reds collage-like blends, one from California, the other from Argentina.

As usual, I dispense with matters technical, geographical, climatic, philosophical, historical, anthropological, psychological, heretical and hermeneutic to focus on quick, incisive reviews that get at the essence of the wine. These were samples for review or tasted at wholesalers’ trade events.

By the way, I was curious, so I went back and checked through the Friday Wine Sips series, which I launched on January 5, to see how many brief reviews I’ve done, and counting this post today, it’s 86 wines. That’s a lot of juice.
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Hess Select Sauvignon Blanc 2010, North Coast. 13.5% alc. Very dry, crisp and lively, with pert acidity and a sleek texture; kiwi, celery seed, tarragon; tangerine, lemongrass and grapefruit skin, with a touch of citrus rind bitterness on the finish. Uncomplicated and tasty. Very Good. About $11.
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Cortenova Pinot Grigio 2009, Veneto, Italy. (% alc. NA) Clean and fresh, hints of roasted lemon and lemon balm with almond and almond blossom and an undertone of pear; the citrus spectrum in a smooth, crisp, bright package; good character and heft for the price. Very Good. About $13.
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Chateau Suau Bordeaux Blanc 2010, Cotes de Bordeaux, France. (% alc. NA) 55% sauvignon blanc, 35% semillon, 10% muscadelle. A lovely white Bordeaux, brisk and refreshing, bordering on elegance; pear and peach, jasmine and honeysuckle, surprising hint of pineapple; all suppleness and subtlety but in a lively arrangement of balancing elements. Very Good+. About $15, representing Great Value.
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Shannon Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Lake County. 13.5% alc. Crisp and sassy, with tremendous appeal; quince and ginger, lemongrass and peach, lime peel and grapefruit and fennel seed, all intense and forward; animated, provocative in its spiciness, its leafy herbal qualities and alert acidity running through steely citrus flavors. Very Good+. About $16, a Real Bargain.
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Valminor Albariño 2010, Rías Baixas, Spain. 12.5% alc. This boldly spicy and savory albarino offers real grip and limestone fortitude with enticing citrus and grapefruit scents and flavors, whiffs of jasmine and camellia, hints of apple skin and roasted pear; eminently refreshing, spring rain and sea-salt with a bracing punch of earth and bitterness on the finish. One of the best albariños. Excellent. About $20.
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Hall Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Napa Valley. 14.8% alc. An organic wine. Pale straw color with faint green highlights; nectarine, pear and melon, dried thyme, cloves and a hint of fig, jasmine and honeysuckle; dry, smooth, suave; bright brisk acidity, scintillating limestone element; ethereal spareness and elegance of lemon, pear and grapefruit flavors. Excellent. About $20.
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Benessere Pinot Grigio 2010, Carneros, Napa Valley. 13.9% alc. Pretty exotic for a pinot grigio but super-attractive; pale straw color; apple peel, orange zest, roasted lemon and pear; cloves and clover, touch of mango; nicely balanced between moderately lush texture and zippy acidity, crisp and lively but just an undertow of richness; lemon and tangerine with a touch of peach skin; long spicy finish. 895 cases. Excellent. About $22.
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Molnar Family Poseidon’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2009, Carneros, Napa Valley. 14.1% alc. Uncommonly spicy and savory; deep, rich, full-bodied, yet so light on its feet, so agile, deft and balanced; classic pineapple and grapefruit scents and flavors, exhilarating feeling of limestone and river rock minerality; smoke, cloves, cinnamon, hint of sandalwood, yeah, a little exotic but nothing overstated, and blessedly avoids any overtly tropical element. Excellent. About $24.
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Black Dog Cellars Chardonnay 2010, Sonoma Coast. (% alc. NA) Exactly the kind of chardonnay I would drink all the time: lovely purity and intensity of the grape; exquisite balance and integration of all features; pale straw-gold color; pineapple and grapefruit scents and flavors highlighted by cloves and limestone; oak lends firmness, suavity and suppleness; there’s a touch of camellia in the nose, and an intriguing bit of resinous grip in the long resonant finish, all bound by acidity you could practically strum like a harp. Sadly only 313 cases. Excellent. About $25.
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Morgan “Highland” Chardonnay 2010, Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey. 13.8% alc. Bright straw-gold color; fresh, clean, boldly spicy, apple, pineapple and grapefruit scents and flavors, just a hint of mango; lovely finesse, balance and integration; rich but not creamy pineapple and grapefruit flavors, touch of cloves and buttered cinnamon toast, all beautifully modulated; limestone and flint come in on the finish. Excellent. About $26.
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And two reds:
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Shannon Ridge Wrangler Red 2009, Lake County. 14.2% alc. 38% zinfandel, 18% tempranillo, 13% barbera, 12% merlot, 12% cabernet sauvignon, 7% grenache. A pastiche of grapes that produced a warm, spicy, fleshy fruity and engaging wine; dark ruby-magenta color; cassis and blueberry, lavender, lilac and licorice; graphite and shale; hint of cloves and vanilla; quite dry, but juicy with black and blue fruit flavors supported by dense chewy tannins and burnished oak. Great for pizzas, burgers and such. Very Good+. About $17.
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Amalaya 2010, Calcahquí, Salta, Argentina. 14% alc. Malbec 75%, cabernet sauvignon 15%, tannat 5%, syrah 5%. Dark ruby-purple color; what a nose: rose hips and fruitcake, walnut shell, black currants, black raspberries and blueberries, cocoa powder and bittersweet chocolate, graphite; in the mouth, very dry, very intense and concentrated, amid the tightly-packed tannins and firm oak a deep core of spiced and macerated blackberries and currants, lavender and licorice, briers and brambles. Needs a grateful steak. Very Good+. About $17.
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Surely it’s not too late to post a Wine of the Week, even though today is Thursday and I typically do this on Monday or even Sunday. Call it the Wine of Down-Trending Mid-Week, if you please, of the Wine of the Up-Coming Weekend. Anyway, here ’tis.

The word ‘classic” tends to come up when writers or reviewers mention the Artezin zinfandels, and yet it feels natural to use that term because this brand’s zinfandel offers classic, if you will, balance and proportion and spicy black fruit scents and flavors. It also tends to be downright delicious.

The Artezin Zinfandel 2010, Mendocino County, is fresh, bright and clean, delivering a snootful and palate-swathing of black currant and raspberry scents and flavors with hints of mulberries, blueberries and just a mite of boysenberry, none of this fruit character being jammy or over-ripe. There’s an infusion of cloves and slightly exotic sandalwood, a pointed touch of graphite. The wine sees no new oak but ages in second and third-use French oak barrels, a device that bolsters the spicy aspect and lends suppleness to the texture, all of this supported by fairly dense but mildly grainy tannins and vibrant acidity. The finish brings in a bit of black pepper, a lick of dried thyme and more of that mineral element. To 89 percent zinfandel, the blend adds 10 percent petite sirah and 1 percent carignan. No extremes here, no hard edges, just a tasty, authentic and reasonably-priced zinfandel appropriate with burgers, steaks, pizzas and hearty pasta dishes. 14.5 percent alcohol. Very Good+. About $18.

A sample for review.

La Follette Wines grew out of Greg La Follette’s Tandem label that he founded in 2001. He met Pete and Terri Kight in 2008, and the couple bought Tandem, folding it into a new winery and label that generously carried the winemaker’s name. I tried three of the winery’s five pinot noirs; La Follette also makes a roster of chardonnays. Many of these wines are made from high-altitude vineyards that seem to lend power and individuality to the product, while not straying too far from the pinot noir grape’s inherent elegance. Well, not too far.

The engraving that decorates the labels of La Follette wines is derived from a rare 19th Century French winemaking manual, though for this purpose the implement the vigneron was holding has been supplanted by a magic wand.

These wines were samples for review.
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The Van Der Kamp Vineyard, farmed on organic principles, lies at 1,400 feet elevation on Sonoma Mountain. My first note on La Follette Van Der Kamp Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009, Sonoma Mountain, is “This has it all.” The color is dark ruby with a violet-magenta rim; aromas of smoky black cherry, beet-root, cola and cloves, cranberry and rhubarb are layered over new leather and dusty graphite — a bouquet one does not easily forget. In the mouth, this pinot noir is seductively supple and satiny, supporting ripe and spicy (but not overly luscious) black cherry, mulberry and plum flavors in balance with a definitive smack of acidity for liveliness along with subtle, gentling shaping oak from 10 months in French barrels; through the finish, slightly dense tannins stir something earthy and almost tarry. 14.6 percent alcohol. 429 cases. Drink now through 2014 or ’15. Excellent. About $40.
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The Mendocino Ridge AVA — American Viticultural Area — established in 1997, is not contiguous, rather it encompasses three similar but disconnected mountain slopes along the coastal range in Mendocino County. It’s a huge region, but fewer than 100 acres are planted to vines, all above 1,200 feet, higher than the fog line. From one of these peaks, located at 2,000 feet, comes La Follette Manchester Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009, Mendocino Ridge. One senses the mountain-side origin of the grapes in the wine’s distinct briery, brambly and leather qualities, in the foresty presence that inhabits the finish, in what I have to call tremendous tannin. Fruit is red with a black undertone — red currants and red cherry, rhubarb and mulberry, a hint of black plum — all deeply spiced and macerated, all permeated by cola and cloves and a hint of fruitcake. (It spends 10 months in French oak.) This is, by my lights, frankly large for pinot noir, densely structured, chewy, not exactly syrah-like but pushing the grape to the extreme; still, what can I say? It’s pinot noir; I pretty much like it. 14.7 percent alcohol. 494 cases. Drink now through 2014 to ’16. Excellent. About $50.
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La Follette Sangiacomo Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009, Sonoma Coast, is characterized initially by striking freshness and purity, followed by waves of smoke and exotic spices that imbue aromas of ripe black cherry and blueberry, mulberry and rhubarb. At 15.5 percent alcohol, there’s a lot of power here, and as the wine spends time in the glass it begins to yield evidence of the alcohol and the oak to the detriment of its other virtues, and the first impression of freshness and purity is subsumed by heat and a general sense of imbalance. Perhaps a few years aging, say, through 2013 or ’14, will smooth this wine out and bring integration, but my money would be on the two previous wines. Very Good (for potential). About $40.
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Black Kite Cellars traces its origins to 1995, when Donald and Maureen Green bought a 40-acre parcel by the Navarro River just west of Philo in Mendocino County, in a cool area eight miles from the coast. They replanted an old vineyard with pinot noir vines and developed two more blocks on a hill above the river. The first crop was harvested in 2003, and the decision to retain a portion of the grapes to make their own wine brought the concept of Black Kite Cellars, named for a bird indigenous to the region, to fruition. Jeff Gaffner became winemaker in 2004; the first wines he worked on comprised the 2005 bottlings of distinct blocks within the estate. I rated the Black Kite River’s Turn Pinot Noir 2007 as Exceptional and made it one of the “50 Great Wines of 2009.”

These were samples for review.
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The color of the Black Kite Kite’s Rest Pinot Noir 2009, Anderson Valley, is medium ruby with a slight blue-magenta cast. Scents of leather, briers, intensely ripe black cherries and plums, damp earth and a hefty dose of cloves segue to a wine of lovely heft and substance, with a satiny texture enlivened by vivid acidity; it’s quite spicy, bursting with black and blue fruit flavors revealing hints of cola and cranberry and rounded by soft tannins and moderately polished oak, from 11 months in French barrels, one-third new. Great charm and allure. 1,000 cases. Excellent. About $42.
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The Black Kite Stony Terrace Block Pinot Noir 2009, Anderson Valley, is almost immodestly dense and intense, spicy and floral. At first, it seems all cloves and sassafras and sandalwood; then it seems all rose petals and violets, perhaps with a flush of lilac; then, however, it takes on firmness and body, it comes close to being sturdy for an Anderson Valley pinot, packed, as it is, with cranberry and leather, root beer and cola, red and black currants and blueberries, ensconced in tannins that feel like tissues and oak that’s lithe and supple; the wine is ultra satiny, deep, a bit muscular even, and it finishes with a touch of wild blueberry. The wood regimen is 11 months in French barrels, two-thirds new. 14.9 percent alcohol. Now through 2014. Production was 230 cases. Excellent. About $52.
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What accounts for these differences except for minute fluctuations of geography that somehow result in nuances that shift from wine to wine? Though the Black Kite Redwoods Edge Block Pinot Noir 2009, Anderson Valley, receives the same oak treatment at the Stony Terrace and the River’s Turn — 11 months, French oak, two-thirds new barrels — my palate perceives Redwoods Edge as slightly more influenced by oak, as being a bit woodier in the sense of displaying more dried, woody spiciness and a few degrees more austerity on the finish. Other than that aspect, the wine offers a classic dark ruby-mulberry color and attractive aromas of smoky black cherry, rhubarb, cranberry, briers and sandalwood. In the mouth, the story is density, intensity and slightly roasted black and red currants flavors touched with blueberry, and still that pervasive oaky factor diminishes a bit the full suave, savory pinot effect. 14.7 percent alcohol. 170 cases. Drink through 2014 or ’15; let it mellow a bit. Very Good+. About $52.
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The color is radiant medium ruby, but what really entices one’s senses in the Black Kite River’s Turn Block Pinot Noir 2009, Anderson Valley, is the knock-out bouquet of spiced and macerated black cherries, plums and rhubarb wafted on notes of cloves, cinnamon and sassafras, all with undertones of briers and graphite; the impression is not only of a panoply of delights but of supreme confidence, balance and integration. Give the wine a few minutes in the glass, and it draws up hints of mint, iodine and lilac, qualities that remind you that while there’s plenty of winsome detail to the wine, it also possesses more serious dimensions of minerality, vivid acidity and tannic-oaken structure; it’s powerful and profound but lovely, elegant, so lithe that it’s almost ductile. A few more minutes produce black and red fruit flavors that are slightly stewed, smoky and fleshy, and a long finish that feels supple and transparent. Great winemaking here. 14.8 percent alcohol. 160 cases. Drink through 2014 or ’15. Exceptional. About $52.
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When I wrote the post called “Tasting Every Damn Chardonnay in the Wine Fridge” (here), I dissed (sometimes strenuously) a number of chardonnays, especially from California, but tried to ease the pain somewhat by mentioning that I liked some of the red wines from the producers in question. Today, I’ll go back to the pinot noirs of 2009 and 2008 from La Crema Winery, because, however much I dislike the winery’s chardonnays and the manner of their making, I pretty much adore the pinots.

This line-up seems to represent most of the pinot noirs from La Crema for 2008 and 2009. Winemaker was Melissa Stackhouse, who recently left La Crema to take the position of vice president of winemaking at J Vineyards and Winery. Her replacement at La Crema is Elizabeth Grant-Douglas, who had been associate winemaker under Stackhouse. La Crema is one of the Jackson Family Wines.
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La Crema Pinot Noir 2009, Sonoma Coast, and La Crema Pinot Noir 2009, Monterey County. Carrying broad designations, Sonoma Coast and Monterey, these are the winery’s entry-level pinot noirs; both are reliable, well-made pinots that are appealing and satisfying without reaching ecstatic heights. The oak influence is wisely kept to a minimum; the Sonoma Coast Pinot 09 ages seven and a half months in French oak, 26 percent new barrels, while the Monterey Pinot 09 ages seven months in French oak, 29 percent new barrels. La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 09 is a lovely expression of the grape that offers aromas of red and black currants and plums with hints of cranberry, cola and cloves; the texture is smooth and satiny, and the overall impression is of balance, integration and authentic tone. 13.8 percent alcohol. La Crema Monterey Pinot Noir 09 takes the character of its stable-mate and intensifies and concentrates it into a wine that’s darker, literally and metaphorically, and spicier and whose emphasis is more on black and blue fruit scents and flavors rather than black and red. There’s a bit more weight and substance here too, a little more velvet than satin. 13.9 percent alcohol. Both of these highly drinkable pinot noirs should perform nicely through 2013 or ’14. Both rate Very Good+. About $24.

La Crema Pinot Noir 2009, Russian River Valley, and La Crema Pinot Noir 2009, Anderson Valley. With the narrower regional focus, the ante goes up for the Russian River Valley and Anderson Valley; the oak regimen is a little more strict: nine months for Anderson, 36 percent new French oak, 10 months for RRV, 51 percent new French oak; the alcohol contents are slightly higher, 14.4 and 14.6 percent respectively; and there is, not surprisingly, a heightened level of resonance and concentration. The color of La Crema RRV Pinot 09 is medium ruby with a blue/magenta overlay; the generous bouquet is expansive with sweet red and black cherry scents, cranberry, cola and cloves and undertones of briers and brambles; smooth and supple, yes, but with marked intensity and vibrancy in ripeness, in spice and in density; a polished wine that’s beautiful in balance, tone and integration. Excellent. About $40. La Crema Anderson Valley Pinot 09 is a shade darker in its ruby color, definitely spicier and deeper in its slightly macerated and roasted aromas and flavors of black and red fruit; it’s also just a bit heftier and more tannic — you feel this suggestion of weight, this slightly acerb quality especially from mid-palate back through the foresty finish. Also Excellent. About $50. The production was 5,800 cases for the RRV, 2,700 cases for the Anderson. Both of these pinot noirs will reward another year’s aging and then drinking through 2015 to ’16.
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La Crema Pinot Noir 2008, Sonoma Coast, and La Crema Pinot Noir 2008, Monterey County. So, here we are at the vintage of one year earlier. The oak treatment is the same except that in the case of the Monterey pinot the barrels are 30 percent new rather than 29 percent as with the 2009 version; how much difference this detail makes I’m not sure, but I assume the idea is to allow the vintage to express itself rather than any abrupt alterations in winery methodology. The color of the Monterey Pinot 08 is a beguilingly limpid medium ruby with a faint blue cast; classic aromas of black cherry and plum are imbued with cloves, cinnamon and cocoa powder and hints of leather and sassafras. The texture is seductively satiny; the ripe yet spare black cherry and plum flavors unfold to touches of mulberry and cranberry, and after a few minutes — I mean 20 or 30 minutes — you feel the slight tug of briery tannins and polished oak through the finish. Just freakin’ lovely. 13.9 percent alcohol. Now through 2013 or ’14. Excellent. About $24. La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot 08 feels cooler, a little more spare, more mineral-influenced, less spicy, more floral: rose petals, shale, cranberry and cola; lavender and licorice; a texture as dense as satin drapery yet with vibrant acidity that cuts a swath on the palate; again, you feel the oak and tannin creeping up through the finish, but boy this is good. 13.9 percent alcohol. Now through 2013 or ’14. Excellent. About $24.

La Crema Pinot Noir 2008, Russian River Valley, is certainly a satisfying pinot noir, but given the choice and considering the price, I would go with the Sonoma Coast Pinot 08. Still, this is a pinot noir that touches all the authentic bases of dimension and detail with earthy, smoky black cherry and plum scents and flavors, hints of leather and slightly briery underbrush and barnyard elements, supple tannins and a dense, satiny texture. Drink through 2013 or ’14. Alcohol content is 14.5 percent. Very Good+. About $40.
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