Fri 12 Aug 2016
Yes, we do have a canine named Quincy, our first Carolina Dog, the Prince of our Pack, now about eight years old. You can see in this image that he is very handsome and elegant. The Quincy under consideration today, however, is not our dog but the small wine region in the eastern portion of France’s Loire Valley. Quincy forms part of a group of regions that produce dry white wine from the sauvignon blanc grape. The best-known of these are Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, which face each other from opposite banks of the Loire River — Sancerre on the west, Pouilly-Fumé on the east. Further inland from that great curve of the river are Menetou-Salon, attached like a tail to Sancerre; and Quincy and Reuilly, lying together like spoons. Unlike Sancerre, Meneton-Salon and Reuilly, but like Pouilly-Fumé, only white wine is made in Quincy; the others also produce red and rosé wines. The region is not pronounced like John Quincy Adams (or our dog Quincy), but as an approximation of “can’t see,” going very light on the “t.”
No one, it seems, writes about the sauvignon blanc wines of Quincy without using the word “racy,” and I’ll admit that my impression of these five models — all samples for review — was of vigorous nervosity and energy driven by tremendous acidity and limestone minerality with a glittering honed edge. I found all of these wines, to greater or lesser degree, to be eloquent expressions of the sauvignon blanc grape, as well as excellent values. They are all Worth a Search.
The Quincy 2014 from Domaine Pierre Duret offers a pale gold hue and scintillating aromas of lime peel and lime leaf, lemongrass and roasted lemon, opening to notes of quince and ginger, celery seed and fennel, all uplifted by a heady tone of gunflint. It feels transparent on the palate, light and lithe, its grassy citrus and stone-fruit flavors animated by keen acidity and bright limestone minerality. 12.5 percent alcohol. Now through 2018. Excellent. About — ready for this? — $14, representing Great Value.
Imported by Fruit of the Vines, Long Island City, N.Y.
The pale gold color of the Quincy 2015, Jean-Michel Sorbe, seems a prophecy of its delicate, finely-spun character, in which elements of lime peel and lemongrass, savory figs and damp sunny leaves are elegantly poised against riveting acidity and limestone-chalk minerality; plenty of stones and bones really jazz up the taste-buds, though the final assessment lies on the side of elegance and balance. 13 percent alcohol. Now through 2019. Excellent. About $16.
Imported by T Edward Wines, New York.
The eldest of this five wines, the Quincy 2013, Sophie Bertin, displays a light gold hue and entrancing ripe, smoky, spicy aromas of yellow plum, baked pear, roasted grapefruit and Earl Gray tea; the wine feels ripe and golden on the palate, like Platonic fresh apples and apple tart, though it’s quite dry and riven by vibrant acidity and a resonant limestone element that emerges on the spice-drenched finish. 12.5 percent alcohol. Now through 2017 or ’18. Excellent. About $16.
Solstars LLC, New York.
I have no argument with the nom de guerre “Une pointe d’Authenticité” for Domaine du Coudray’s Quincy 2014; it seems completely authentic to me, though also highly individual. The color is pale straw-gold; peppery — white pepper and watercress — aromas of green pea, papaya and quince seem on point, as well as notes of hay and new-mown grass, and more exotic hints of tangerine, talc and lilac. The body is light, lithe, well-knit, and there’s a citric tang to the fleet acidity; the vibrant finish is subtly packed with limestone and flint minerality. 13 percent alcohol. Now through 2018 or ’19. Excellent. About $25.
Imported by Savio Soares Selections, Brooklyn, N.Y.
Every aspect of the Quincy “Les Poëte” 2014, from Guillaume Sorbe, feels impeccable — the tone, the balance, structure and texture; the color is pale straw-gold, a hue that seems to presage aromas of peaches and pears, quince and ginger, roasted lemon and lemon balm; the sauvignon blanc grape’s grassy-herbal character is present, especially in a hay-thyme-fennel quality, but as a background to the riper qualities. Then you feel the wine’s terrific verve and presence on the palate, the chiseled and faceted limestone and flint minerality, the bright, vivid acidity; all propelled toward a generous mineral-and-herb packed finish. 12.5 percent alcohol. An extraordinary expression of the grape. Now through 2022 to ’24. Exceptional. About $30.
Selected by DNS Wines for Telenteny Imports, New York.