Let’s begin our foray into the most recent vintage of rosé wines with the Cline Cellars Ancient Vines Mourvèdre Rosé 2017, from the winery’s Oakley vineyards in Contra Costa County, way east across the bay from San Francisco. The wine is 100 percent varietal and was not produced by the “bleed-off” method but from grapes grown purposely for rosé, lightly crushed and then removed from the juice. The color is a lovely medium salmon-coral, an appropriate introduction to the delicacy and elegance of nicely nuanced raspberry and strawberry notes permeated by touches of blood orange, cloves and crystallized ginger; the wine flows with lithe refreshment and brightness on the palate, highlighted by blithe acidity and tide of flint-like minerality, slightly infused with an element of graphite, all in support of subtle but tasty raspberry-peach-plum flavors. 13.5 percent alcohol. Drink this rosé through the rest of 2018 as a charming aperitif or with brunch and picnic fare. Excellent. About $17.

A sample for review.