California


Yes, indeed, My Readers, today launches the ninth edition of “Twelve Days of Christmas with Champagne and Sparkling Wine,” and I’m changing the format a bit to accommodate different genres and styles of sparkling wine. Each day of the series, I will offer two examples, one a Champagne (I hope) and the second an alternate sort of sparkling wine, though one post will be devoted to Prosecco because it’s so popular, and producers are trying to make an up-scale shift. As usual, on New Year’s Eve, I’ll offer three or four products at various prices.

So, on we go, enjoy and Merry Christmas!
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ayala
The house of Ayala was founded in 1860 by Edmond de Ayala in the village of Aÿ, which looks like the name of an exotic seductress in a science-fiction movie. The estate was operated by the family until 2005, when it was acquired by Bollinger. The Ayala Brut Majeur, nv, is a blend of 40 percent chardonnay, 40 percent pinot noir and 20 percent pinot meunier. It rests on the lees — the residue of dead yeast cells — in the bottle for an average of eight years. The color is pale gold, set a-shimmer by a frothing surge of tiny glinting bubbles. A prominent architecture of damp limestone and chalk frames beguiling notes of roasted lemon, spiced pear and lightly candied quince and ginger, buoyed by a lithe and animated texture heightened by crisp acidity. From mid-palate back through the finish, the mineral element becomes more pronounced, though that influence only augments this Champagne’s essential crystalline purity and intensity. 12 percent alcohol. I loved this Champagne’s liveliness and elevation. (A local purchase.) Excellent. About $40.

Imported by Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, N.Y.
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bonny doon sparkling albarino
Rare is the occasion when I’m called upon to mention the albariño grape in the same line as sparkling wine, but leave it to Randall Grahm, the indefatigable leader of Bonny Doon Vineyard to explore such an option. Made in the Champagne method of second fermentation in the bottle — now called the “traditional method” outside of Champagne because of EU regulations — the Bonny Doon Sparkling Albariño 2010, Central Coast, offers a mild gold hue and moderate through very pretty effervescence. (This product is finished with a bottle cap, so be careful when you open it.) When first broached, this Sparkling Albariño seems delicate, a creature of soft wings and tender threads, but a few minutes in the glass bring out distinct elements of roasted lemon, baked pineapple and caramel apple, with a back-note of candied citron. It’s quite dry, slightly funky and earthy in a loamy way, and sports a finish that’s savory, bracing and saline. 12.5 percent alcohol. Production was 617 cases. If you have any of this on hand or find a bottle to purchase, by all means try it, but drink up; I think it has reached the distance of its range. Very Good+. About $36.

A sample for review.
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It’s immensely gratifying to taste a well-balanced wine that doesn’t allow one aspect of the grape or the wine-making to dominate the other qualities. The best or at least the most satisfying wine exists in a state of internal harmony that appeals to the eye, the nose and the palate in equal measure. Such wines come forward to you in a state of gradual revelation, not muted and unmarred by over-ripe jammy fruit, thunderous tannin, cinsaultstrident oak and high alcohol’s cloying heat. Unfortunately, the latter characteristics are often common in red wines that hail from the Lodi appellation, where producers of zinfandel, in particular, have a penchant for studly power above all other possibilities. Representing a saner approach for the AVA, however, is the Estate Crush Cinsault 2013, the grapes for which derived from the 129-year-old Bechthold Vineyard. Estate Crush was founded in 2009 by Bob Colarossi and Alison Liebich Colarossi. Located in downtown Lodi, the facility is a custom crush establishment, with tasting room, that makes wine for more than 80 clients, as well as its own releases. The Estate Crush Cinsault 2013 came to me unannounced via one of the major delivery services, and I’m certainly happy that it did. The color is an entrancing deep cherry-magenta hue; dark and spicy aromas of red cherries, mulberries and plums encompass a burgeoning intensity of lavender, violets and graphite under wild top-notes of cranberry and pomegranate. A briary-brambly quality lends earthiness on the palate, while vital acidity keeps the wine lithe and lively and drinkable. Just enough tannin and oak give the wine structure without interfering with the subtly tart and juicy red fruit flavors. 14.5 percent alcohol. Pretty damned ideal, I’d say. Excellent. About $26, and Worth a Search.

Named for — let’s not toss this word around too loosely — legendary winemaker Miljenko “Mike” Grgich, long-time director of Grgich mikeHills Estate, in Napa Valley’s Rutherford district, the Miljenko’s Selection labels indicate a level of quality and limited quantity fully worthy of the man and his heritage. While the 92-year-old veteran of 50 or more harvests turned over winemaking duties to his nephew Ivo Jeramaz years ago, the wines from the estate, all organically produced, bear Mike Grgich’s influential and benign thumbprint, and he personally selected the vineyards from which they derive. These wines ferment by indigenous yeast; the oak regimen is carefully tempered to the grapes in question and to the outcome at the end of aging. The goal is a fine balance between elegance and power, and rarely is that goal not accomplished. These are, admittedly, wines for collectors and enthusiasts, and they are available to the winery’s club patrons and at the tasting room. If any happen to come your way, don’t hesitate, if you can manage, to acquire a bottle or two or even twist someone’s arm to give you a taste. Such wines raise beacons of purity and intensity for others to follow.

Samples for review.
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The color of the Grgich Hills Estate Miljenko’s Selection “Essence” Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Napa Valley, is very pale straw-gold; FINAL 2013 ESS LABELbbeguiling aromas of lemongrass and lime peel, quince and ginger are animated by an undertow of graphite and limestone. These elements segue seamlessly to the palate, where the wine’s dense, talc-like texture is riven by keen acidity and that shimmering stony minerality, lending a sense of both delicacy and durability. A few moments in the glass bring in notes of heather, fig and jasmine. 14.1 percent alcohol. A sauvignon blanc of piercing purity and intensity, beautiful in every aspect. The wine spent nine months in large French oak casts. Production was 1,204 cases. Now through 2019 to 2022. Exceptional. About $55.
The label image is one vintage behind.
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Hailing from Carneros, Napa Valley, the Grgich Hills Estate Miljenko’s Selection Chardonnay 2013 delivers loads of bright, bold 2012 CHCN, MSrichness handled with infinitely deft balance and nuance. The color is pale straw-gold; the bouquet blossoms in layers of classic pineapple-grapefruit scents infused with quince jam, hints of peach and spiced pear and notes of crushed gravel and damp flint. In the mouth, the wine is characterized by lovely expressiveness and vibrancy, a true marriage of power and elegance; citrus and stone-fruit flavors are lightly touched by cloves and allspice and bear a light cloak of slightly burnished oak, all encompassed by resonant limestone minerality. 14.1 percent alcohol. The wine spent 11 months in 900-gallon French oak casks. Production was 1,265 cases. Drink now through 2019 to 2023. Excellent. About $60.
The label image is one vintage behind.
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I haven’t seen a petite sirah wine that measured under 14 percent alcohol in years, and not many under 15 percent, but the Grgich Hills Estate Miljenko’s Selection Petite Sirah 2011, Napa Valley, performs very nicely at 13.9 percent, thank you very much. It’s a rollicking ripe and spicy wine, whose dark ruby-purple color presages aromas of deeply scented, dusty and macerated black cherries and blue plums opening to notes of lavender, black pepper and graphite; a few minutes in the glass bring out hints of blueberry, mulberry and violets. The impression on the palate is of wonderful freshness, brightness and appeal of red and black fruit, but give the wine an hour or so and bulwarks of stalwart chiseled tannins begin to assert themselves. The wine spent a whopping 32 months in wood, half large oak casks, half small neutral barriques. Production was 503 cases. We drank this with a medium-rare strip steak, crusted with my secret multi-pepper mixture. Now through 2018 to 2020. Excellent. About $65.
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The Grgich Hills Estate Miljenko’s Selection Petit Verdot 2012, Yountville, with 10 percent cabernet sauvignon grapes, is a deep, geological wine that seems to draw strength and power from the strata of the earth and recesses of glittering granite. The color is inky ruby-purple, and the chief quality of the wine is — not to be repetitious — a piercing minerality entangled with tannins that crowd the palate like dusty antique velvet. Fruit makes an appearance in the guise of black currents and cherries with notes of wild blueberries and cranberries, but this is primarily a wine that will center on structure for years to come. The wine aged 21 months in French oak casks. Try from 2017 or ’18 through 2022 to ’25. 14.7 percent alcohol. Production was 493 cases. Excellent potential. About $65.
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Devotees of Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon wines — particularly from the west-central area of the region — who possess the necessary fiduciary prowess will want to snap up a case of the 100 percent varietal Grgich Hills Estate Miljenko’s Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Rutherford. This is the real stuff, from a great vintage. The color is opaque ruby-purple with a tinge of magenta at the rim; at first, the wine emits scents of mint and eucalyptus, cedar and thyme, gradually unveiling notes of spiced, macerated and slightly roasted black and red currants and cherries, backed by graphite, lavender and bitter chocolate, all melded with purposeful integration. It’s a dry, vigorous wine, ruled by laser-beam minerality, ferocious acidity and burnished and polished tannins; despite this profound nature, the wine is not ponderous or obvious, rather it carries its scintillating lithic character with grace and dignity. One feels, after a few minutes airing, the famous or elusive Rutherford dusty, loamy influence, adding touches of espresso and ancho chili. 14.5 percent alcohol. The wine spent 18 months in French oak barrels, 80 percent new. Production was 485 cases. Try from 2017 or ’18 through 2028 to ’30. Exceptional. About $90.
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The Spire Collection comprises the top products in the expansive stable of Jackson Family Wines. These are limited edition wines, generally from specific AVAs, carefully made, aged with primarily new French oak barrels and priced accordingly. The Spire Collection labels are Anakota (Knights Valley); Arcanum (Tuscany); Capensis (Western Cape, South Africa); Capture (Sonoma County); Cardinale (Napa Valley); Cyneth (Napa Valley); Chateau Lessegue (Saint-Emilion, Bordeaux); Chateau Vignot (Saint-Emilion, Bordeaux); Galerie carpenter(Napa Valley); Hickinbotham (McLaren Vale, South Australia); La Jota Vineyard (Napa Valley); Lokoya (Napa Valley); Maggy Hawk (Mendocino County); Mt. Brave (Napa Valley); Verite (Sonoma County);Windracer (Russian River Valley, Sonoma County). Today we look at red wines from La Jota, Lokoya and Mt. Brave, made by Chris Carpenter, pictured at right. He is also the winemaker for Cardinale, the 2011 version of which I reviewed back in January (here) and Hickinbotham, whose wines I will save for a later post; I mean, Australia is so far away from Napa Valley, and I want to stick to a theme.

The wines of La Jota, Lokoya and Mt. Brave, products of mountainside vineyards, are true vins de garde, that is, wines intended for long aging, in the case of some of these from 10 to 15 years or more, yet they are — conforming to the California ideal — accessible at a fairly young age too. They are wines of character, serious and highly structured but not ponderous, dignified but not aloof. With prices ranging from $75 to $350 a bottle, a legitimate question is, who buys these wines? Who even cares that they exist, in their limited quantities? Loyoka doesn’t even have an online function to purchase its wines; the best one can hope for is to add your name to an allocation list.

The desirability of these wines is not merely an effect of their price and rarity, however. These are great — to use a subjective term — wines that deserve to be in the cellars of anyone who collects such products. As for the rest of us, well, I wouldn’t have access to them either if I weren’t a veteran wine-writer, and I don’t hesitate to say that I enjoyed the hell out of them.

These notes are a combination of tasting samples for review at home and tasting wines in Napa Valley in March this year.
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La Jota Vineyard Co. dates back to 1898, when Swiss immigrant Frederick Hess purchased 327 acres of George Yount’s Rancho La Jota land grant on Howell Mountain. (The jota is a Spanish folk-dance, in 3/4 or 6/8 time, that achieved broad popularity in the mid 18th Century.) Within a few years, La Jota wines were winning awards at national and international competitions. Phylloxera and Prohibition put an end to the winery’s accomplishments, and the estate did not see a revival until 1974, when the original stone winery and 40 surrounding acres were bought by former oilman Bill Smith and his wife Joan. They planted new vines and added acreage, developed several new varieties and were instrumental in persuading what was then the BATF to declare Howell Mountain a separate American Viticultural Area within Napa Valley. In 2001, Smith sold La Jota to Markham Vineyards and its parent company Mercian Corp. The late Jesse Jackson and his wife Barbara Banke acquired La Jota in 2005.
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La Jota Vineyard Co. W.S. Keyes Vineyard Merlot 2010, Napa Valley. 14.2% alc. 82% merlot, 18% cabernet sauvignon. 19 months French oak, 85% new barrels. W.S. Keyes Vineyard, planted in 1888, lies at 1,825 feet elevation on Howell Mountain. Very dark ruby hue with a slightly lighter rim; first note: “just beautiful”; quite rich, ripe and intense but without being opulent or overpowering; cloves and sandalwood, black cherries, currants and raspberries with a wild flash of blueberries; bitter chocolate, cedar, tobacco and mocha; wonderful balance and integration of all elements: dusty, supple tannins, spicy fruit, burnished wood, bright acidity and graphite-tinged minerality, all poised with real depth and precision. Drink now through 2020 to ’24. Production was 296 cases. Exceptional. About $150.
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La Jota Howell Mountain Merlot 2011, Napa Valley. 14.5% alc. 95% merlot, 5% cabernet sauvignon. 19 months French oak, 97% new barrels. Dark ruby with a magenta rim; laser beam concentration of ripe black cherry, current and raspberry scents and flavors; bitter chocolate and lavender, cloves and graphite; bright acidity with tremendous resonance and pinpoint balance; finish packed with granitic minerals, walnut-shell and dusty tannins. Now through 2022 to ’25. Excellent. About $75.
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La Jota Howell Mountain Cabernet Franc 2011, Napa Valley. 14.5% alc. 96% cabernet franc, 4% cabernet sauvignon. 19 months French oak, 96% new barrels. Opaque ruby-purple hue; cedar and tobacco leaf, rosemary and pine resin; intense black currant with wild notes of blueberry and raspberry; opens to hints of black olive, oolong tea, white pepper and allspice; dense, dusty tannins, lithe, sinewy texture that’s tight but doesn’t stint on generosity. Now through 2022 to ’25. Excellent. About $75.
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La Jota Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Napa Valley. 14.5% alc. 82% cabernet sauvignon, 8% merlot, 6% cabernet franc, 4% petit verdot. 19 months in French oak, 91% new barrels. Dark ruby with a magenta rim; graphite and granite, iodine and iron; traces of lavender and violet, bitter chocolate and dusty sage; tannin treads the fine line where strict rigor dissolves into dusty velvet; gradually adds ripe black currants, raspberries and blueberries; austere finish needs time to mellow, though it would be tremendous now with a medium rare strip steak. Try through 2022 to ’25. Excellent. About $75.
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La Jota Howell Mountain Cabernet Franc 2012, Napa Valley. 14.5% alc. 100% cabernet franc. 20 months French oak, 81% new barrels. Dark ruby with a vivid magenta rim; bushy and brushy black and red currants, touches of plums, blueberries, notes of cedar, black olives and cloves; lithic structure, plenty of graphite; tannins feel dusty, polished, slightly sanded; also plenty of oak but well-balanced and integrated; robust without being rustic, packs a lot of power into a vibrant package. Drink through 2020 or ’24. Excellent. About $75.
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La Jota Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Napa Valley. 14.5% alc. 77% cabernet sauvignon, 11% cabernet franc, 8% petit verdot, 4% merlot. 20 months French oak, 89% new barrels. Dark ruby with a violet rim; walnut shell, wheatmeal and graphite, focus on structure but firmness etched with deeply spicy black currants, raspberries and plums; notes of lavender, mocha and bitter chocolate; briery and brambly on the one hand, sleek and chiseled on the other, dry and granitic, with fissures of black olive and bell pepper; heaps of presence and energy. Try 2017 or ’18 through 2025 to ’30. Excellent. About $75.
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Mt. Brave, named for the Wappo Indians — “the brave ones” — who inhabited the area, was founded in 2007 to exploit the terroir of the former 30-plus-acre Chateau Potelle property that Jess Jackson and Barbara Banke purchased that year.
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Mt. Brave Merlot 2011, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley. 14.5% alc. 80% merlot, 20% cabernet sauvignon. 19 months in French oak, 80% new barrels. Deep ruby-purple color; a dusty, dusky, lithic rooty wine, offering heaps of graphite and a distinctive earthy quality; also layers of ripe black cherry and plum fruit with notes of spicy pomegranate and blueberry; blossoms with a generous wafting of perfume — violets and lavender, incense and heather; lithe and supple texture supported by velvety tannins and vibrant acidity; a long, dense, slightly austere finish. Drink now through 2022 to ’25. Excellent. About $75.
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Mt. Brave Malbec 2011, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley. 14.5% alc. 100% malbec. 19 months French oak, 70% new barrels. Lustrous black as motor oil with a purple-violet sheen; a darkly gorgeous malbec, seething with notes of blueberry and boysenberry, though not over-ripe or cloying; deeply infused with structural elements of graphite, wheatmeal and walnut shell; opens to hints of black cherry and plum, iodine and iron, cloves and violets, a touch of cherry tart; tannins are dense and chewy, robust, and acidity cuts a path on the palate. Quite a performance. Now through 2021 to ’25. Excellent. About $75.
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Mt. Brave Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley. 14.5% alc. 94% cabernet sauvignon, 3% each merlot and cabernet frnac. 19 months French oak, 91% new barrels. All right, this is the Big One, very dark and inky in every respect; you sense the mountain roots, the chthonic stirrings in its depths of brushy, briery tannins, fleet acidity and grantic minerality; yet — there’s always a yet — the wine also feels like classic Napa Valley cabernet, sleek, chiseled, almost elegant in its presentation and delicious with a wide-ranging complement of cassis, black cherry and blueberry scents and flavors, with notes of cedar, tobacco, mocha and lavender. Another great package. Now through 2022 to ’25. Excellent. About $75.
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Lokoya was founded in 1995. The wines are 100 percent cabernet sauvignon and originate in high-altitude vineyards in the Mount Veeder, Howell Mountain, Diamond Mountain District and Spring Mountain District AVAs. I have tasted only the Mount Veeder version.
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lokoya
Lokoya Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley. 14.5% alc. 100% cabernet sauvignon. Oak regimen was 21 months in French oak, 99% new barrels, a tad finicky perhaps — what difference would one more percent make? — but this winemaker knows what he’s doing. Very dark ruby-mulberry hue; incredible purity and intensity, deep focus and concentration; dusty graphite and granitic qualities that reach far into the depths but allow for the burgeoning of floral notes — lavender and violets — coffee and mocha, black current and blueberry fruit with a wild, high trace of black cherry; a few moments in the glass bring in hints of cloves and sandalwood; the finish — as expected — long, dense, sleek and a bit austere. Tremendous presence, dimension, power and resonance. Now through 2025 to ’30. Exceptional. About $350.
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Founded by a consortium of families in 1976, Duckhorn Vineyards is operated by Dan and Margaret Duckhorn, whose present winemaker is Renee Ary. Deciding early on to focus on the merlot grape, Duckhorn is a leader in high-quality production, centered on single- vineyard releases of merlot, such as the famous Three Palms Vineyard. The winery also makes highly-rated sauvignon blanc and cabernet duckhorn merlotsauvignon. Today’s Wine of the Day is Duckhorn’s “basic” merlot, which draws from a variety of vineyards and carries a Napa Valley designation. The blend of the Duckhorn Merlot 2012, Napa Valley, is 88 percent merlot, 7 percent cabernet sauvignon, 2 percent each petit verdot and cabernet franc and 1 percent malbec; the wine aged 16 months in French oak, 25 percent new barrels, 75 percent once-used. The color is a radiant dark ruby-purple. Aromas of black currants, blueberries and mulberries are inflected with notes of cloves, allspice and a bit of plum jam, opening, after some airing, to intriguing hints of bell pepper and black olive, cedar and sage. It’s an intense and concentrated wine, wild and loamy, briery and brambly, a little gnarly even, yet lithe, polished, powered by bold acidity and dusty, bristly tannins. It’s deep and spicy, seething with ebon-like fruit flavors; if a beverage could feel inky, this would be it, and yet, there’s a paradoxical sense of sweet balance and elegance on the graphite-infused finish. 14.5 percent alcohol. Loads of presence and personality. Drink through 2018 to 2020 with steak, game, braised red meat. Excellent. About $54.

A sample for review.

Here are two venerable producers in this series to which I have not posted in eight months, so I apologize. I chose to deal with these wineries together because they are what I think of as Old School Napa Valley and because they have each undergone many changes in the cycles of their existence.

Freemark Abbey, which occupies a site east of Hwy 29 between St. Helena and Calistoga, was established in 1886 by ECM299053Josephine Marlin Tychson, who sold the property in 1894. It was acquired in 1898 by Antonio Forni, who named it Lombarda Cellars. The winery specialized in “chianti” until it went out of business with the advent of Prohibition in 1919. The revival came in 1939, when a team of investors bought the property and named it Freemark Abbey, an amalgam of parts of two surnames and a nickname. That era came to an end in 1962 — are you paying attention — and the property lay moribund until 1967, when it was acquired by a partnership that included Chuck Carpy, Laurie Wood, Bill Jaeger and winemaker Brad Webb, who had made his reputation at Hanzell. It didn’t take long for Freemark Abbey to become well-known as a producer of top-ranked cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay, particularly, in the first category, for its reserve-style Cabernet Bosché. After the mid 1990s, however, quality faltered. The partners sold Freemark Abbey to The Legacy Estate Group in 2001, but in 2005 that over-extended company filed for bankruptcy and the next year Jess Jackson purchased it for $97 million. The deal included Byron and Arrowood, and those labels, and Freemark Abbley, are now a part of Jackson Family Wines. Winemaker is Ted Edwards.

Mount Veeder Winery doesn’t own the 19th Century legacy that Freemark Abbey does, but that fact does not prevent it veeder logofrom possessing a distinguished heritage. Mike and Arlene Bernstein planted vines on Mount Veeder in the mid 1960s, and in 1973 released their first wine, a zinfandel. They built the reputation of Mount Veeder Winery on bold, large-framed, brooding zinfandels and cabernet sauvignons, with a little chardonnay on the side, but in 1982 sold the estate to Henry and Lisille Matheson of San Francisco. Seven years later, the Mathesons sold the property to Agustin Huneeus, president of Franciscan Vineyards, and his partners, for about $2.6 million. Much like what occurred at Freemark Abbey, the ability of Mount Veeder Winery to produce top-notch cabernet wines seemed to sag after the mid 1990s, yet it maintained enough history and status to be acquired by what’s now known as Constellation Brands in 1999, when the company purchased Franciscan Estates, the first of several high-profile purchases that included Ravenswood and Robert Mondavi. Winemaker at Mount Veeder is Janet Myers.

So, where do these wineries fall on the maps of tradition and quality? The cabernet sauvignon-based wines that I tasted for this post — all samples for review — seem well-made, thoughtfully-crafted and enjoyable in every way. Large on structure, they will probably age and develop for 10 years or more. Are they exciting, exalted, deliriously seductive, do they catch the edge of transcendence? No, sir, they are not and do not. They do, on the other hand, seem to be essential embodiments of place and soil, central-west Napa Valley for Freemark Abbey and the steep slopes of Mount Veeder, and confronted with a medium rare rib-eye steak, hot and crusty from the grill, I would be more than happy to pop the cork on any of them.
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FREEMARK_ABBEY
Freemark Abbey’s “basic” cabernet in the current release is the Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Napa Valley, a blend of the five so-called Bordeaux grape varieties: 76.5 percent cabernet sauvignon, 16.6 percent merlot, 3.3 cabernet franc, 2.6 petit verdot and 2 malbec. Yes, apparently each and every smidgeon counts. The wine aged a bit more than two years in barrels, 86 percent French, 14 percent American, in combination 40 percent new oak. This strikes me as classic Napa Valley cabernet, with every element in place and nothing exaggerated or knotted in clenched intensity and concentrated. In two words, fairly generous, despite its firmness of structure and depth of character. The color is dark ruby, not quite opaque; the wine is built around layers of graphite and granitic minerality and dense, dusty tannins that are brightly etched with scents and flavors of black currants, black raspberries and plums adorned with hints of lavender and mocha, brambles and walnut shell. Acidity runs like a bright taut thread through this package, leading to a slightly austere finish on which you feel the oak. 14.5 percent alcohol. Drink now (with a steak) through 2020 to ’22. Excellent. About $44.
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ECM300031(1)
The Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, from the Rutherford AVA, harks from three vineyards in that appellation in central-western Napa Valley, backing up to the Mayacamas range. The blend, to be precise, is 83.2 percent cabernet sauvignon, 8.3 percent merlot, 4.6 petit verdot, 3.9 cabernet franc. The wine aged 24 and a half months in 49 percent French oak barrels, 51 percent American oak. The color is opaque black-ruby with a magenta rim; intense and concentrated, the aromas offer hints of black currants, black raspberries and plums, with notes of lavender, licorice and bitter chocolate, briers, brambles and loam. The wine is inky in every sense, sporting very dry, dusty and graphite-tinged tannins and a lithic, earthy structure that still opens to a tender filigree of floral and dark berry elements around the circumference; the finish is packed with granitic minerals, velvety tannins and spicy oak. 14.5 percent alcohol. Try from 2016 or ’18 through 2026 to ’30. Excellent potential. About $70.
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MTV_2013_CabernetSauvignon_lowRes
The color of the Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Napa Valley, is opaque ruby-purple with a glowing magenta rim. The wine is a blend of 81 percent cabernet sauvignon, 10 percent merlot, 4 malbec, 3 petit verdot and 1 percent each cabernet franc and syrah; information about oak barrels and aging was not available on the winery’s unusually reticent website. If your notion of a red wine made from mountain-grown grapes is of a vinous edifice that’s intense and concentrated, brooding, packed with notes of gnarly briers and brambles, weathered shale and airy notes of cedar, sage, tobacco and a hint of resinous rosemary, well then, this is your baby. Also featured: black currants, raspberries and plums; wheatmeal and walnut shell; a dusty, velvety tannin structure; and a solid finish that unleashes a final fillip of blueberry tart. 14.5 percent alcohol. Give this until 2017 and then consume through 2023 to ’25. Excellent. About $44.
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MTV_2012_Reserve_lowRes
As we can reasonably expect for a reserve product, the Mount Veeder Reserve Red Wine 2012, Napa Valley, from vineyards that reach 1,600 feet elevation, displays even more intensity and concentration than its cadet stablemate does. The blend is a fairly straightforward 91 percent cabernet sauvignon, 5 merlot and 2 percent each malbec and petit verdot; the wine aged 20 months in 100 percent new oak barrels, I assume French, but we’re not given that information. In any case, that’s a lot of new oak, but these small, tight mountain-grown grapes soaked up that wood and turned it into something firm and rigorous yet supple, spicy and smoky. The color is opaque black-purple, rather like motor oil, though thankfully not as dense; dense, however, is the word for this wine’s impression on the palate, dense, chewy, magesterially weighty yet not ponderous or blatant, really, since it possesses the necessary degree of balance and elegance. Still, despite the details of black currant and raspberry fruit, of a hint of a floral element, the wine concludes with an austere, granitic finish packed with walnut shell, wheatmeal and loam. 14.5 percent alcohol. Try from 2017 or ’18 through 2025 to ’28. Excellent potential. About $90.
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Opening a bottle of chardonnay from California is always a tricky proposition. Will you be getting a lithe, energetic, deftly balanced amalgam of fruit, acid and minerality or a heavy concoction as cloying as a dessert selection from the cart at a third-rate Landmark_2013_Overlook_ChardSonoma_simple_sRGB_M-300x980continental restaurant? I swear, My Readers, that it boggles my mind to read the notices in the Big Wine Magazines that run something like “Rich, buttery and tropical; with notes of coconut cream pie, caramelized mango and lemon curd, against a lush background of French toast, candied pineapple and roasted marshmallows.” 93 points! High-fives all around! I mean, please, let’s not encourage America’s vast childish sweet-tooth any more than necessary with these undrinkable wines. Consumers looking for a more rational approach should pick up a bottle of the Landmark Vineyards Overlook Chardonnay 2013, a California chardonnay that for grapes draws primarily on vineyards in several Sonoma County AVAs but also reaches way down south to the well-known Bien Nacido Vineyard in Santa Barbara County’s Santa Maria Valley. The grapes fermented with native yeast; the wine aged 10 months in French oak, 25 percent new barrels. (Winemaker was Greg Stach.) This is a bright, keen and moderately rich chardonnay that avoids flamboyance through well-developed details and an impeccable dimension of lively acidity and scintillating limestone and flint minerality. The color is medium gold; fresh and ethereal aromas of green apple, grapefruit and pineapple are subtly woven with hints of cloves, heather and green tea. The wine is beautifully proportioned in the mouth, where a supple and fine-edged texture cuts a swath on the palate while providing support for flavors of lightly spiced pear and grapefruit; the chiseled finish practically glitters with limestone. 14.2 percent alcohol. If I had to choose a house chardonnay chez nous, this would be it. Drink through 2017. Excellent. About $25.

A sample for review.

Napa Valley’s Somerston Wine Co. encompasses three labels: Somerston, Priest Ranch and Highflyer. Today we look at the Priest Ranch PR-LogoFinal-EstateGrenache Blanc 2013, from a grape not commonly found in Napa Valley. The wine was fermented by native yeasts — that is, yeasts naturally occurring on the grapes, rather than inoculated in the winery — in stainless steel drums and tanks, with aging carried out in stainless steel with 10 percent neutral French oak barrels. No toasty new oak for this baby! The color is what I think characteristic for grenache blanc, a pale gold hue with a sheen of shadowy tarnish. The bouquet is a subtle melange of lemon and melon, greengage and white pepper, dried thyme, lavender and cedar. The wine is spare and elegant and nicely balanced with juicy roasted lemon flavors highlighted by notes of peach and spiced pear; for all its delicate felicity, though, it pulls up a slightly dusty, faintly tannic element that lends a mysterious earthy effect and leads to a finish lithe with an austere saline and savory quality. 14.3 percent alcohol. Production was 1,151 cases. This should drink well through 2016 with light fish and seafood dishes. Winemaker was Craig Becker. Excellent. About $22.

A sample for review.

Napa Valley’s Chateau Montelena is best-known for its long-lived chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon wines. Riesling is something of a Rieslingsideline, but that doesn’t mean the approach is casual. The Chateau Montelena Riesling 2014, Potter Valley, is anything but off-hand. Potter Valley, in Medocino County, was approved as an American Viticultural Area in 1983; it’s the northernmost AVA in the vast North Coast region. This is a riesling of crystalline intensity and presence that begins with a pale gold hue and continues with arresting aromas of peach and lychee, spiced pear and lime peel, jasmine and lilac; there’s a snap of gunflint and a whiff of damp limestone. Chiming acidity cuts through a talc-like texture that whatever its burgeoning lushness feels spare, chiseled and elegant, presenting a thoughtful paradox of sensations to the palate. The wine is quite dry yet juicy with flavors of slightly dusty roasted lemon and candied kumquat; the finish brings in touches of limestone and spiced grapefruit, ending with a bracing saline note. 13.5 percent alcohol. We drank this wine last night with salmon dusted with fennel pollen rub and seared in a cast-iron skillet. Winemaker was Matt Crafton. Excellent. About $25.

A sample for review.

If what you’re looking for in a zinfandel is a super-charged, over-ripe, sweet and hot alcoholic fruit-‘n’-spice bomb, then you might as well close this page and go on to the video of the kitty and the bunny riding skateboards off a dining-room table. I have other frank logothings in mind for you today, chief among them the well-balanced Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel 2012, Napa Valley. This wine is a blend of 79 percent zinfandel grapes, 18 percent petite sirah and 3 percent cabernet sauvignon; it aged 18 months in French oak, 33 percent new barrels, 67 percent once- and twice-used. Winemaker was Todd Graff. The color is dark ruby shading to a scarlet rim. This is pure raspberry and blueberry in the nose and on the palate, with aromas that touch on cloves, boysenberry, rhubarb and gardenia; as the moments pass, the heady and seductive floral elements blossom with violets and lavender, permeated by notes of fruitcake and lightly caramelized fennel. Tannins are well-knit, graphite-flecked and dusty, and bright acidity cuts a swath through slightly loamy red and black fruit flavors. The finish is sleek, chiseled and elegant, offering subtle layers of spice and granitic minerality. 14.6 percent alcohol. Drink through 2017 or ’18 with grilled steaks or pork chops, braised short ribs or hearty pizzas and pasta dishes — or with Thanksgiving dinner. Excellent. About $37.

A sample for review.

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