California


Celia Welch may be the most important winemaker that you’ve never heard of in Napa Valley, though devotees of high-quality boutique yount sb labelwineries know her work well. Welch is a consulting winemaker for Barbour Vineyards, Hollywood & Vine Cellars, J. Davies Winery, Keever Vineyards and Winery and Scarecrow Wines. She is the winemaker for Lindstrom Wines and owner and winemaker of Corra Wines. Despite her busy involvement in these producers, Welch has a new project called Yount Ridge, one of whose wines is our Wine of the Day No. 240. This is a limited edition bottling that My Readers will have to use their wiles to search out, but I know you’re up to the challenge. Grapes for the Yount Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Napa Valley, derived from an organically-farmed vineyard in the Oakville District AVA; the wine matured a brief four months in a combination of 70 percent stainless steel tanks and 30 percent new French oak, a judicious employment of wood, if you ask me. The color is pale straw-gold; a glorious, green, leafy bouquet encompasses notes of caraway and toasted hazelnuts, lemongrass and figs, smoked pears, thyme and tarragon. The wine is lively and spicy on the palate, animated by bright acidity coursing through a lovely talc-like texture bolstered by an edge of limestone minerality; a few moments in the glass bring in hints of white pepper and chives, lime peel and tangerine. The grapefruit-tinged finish is spare and elegant, chiseled from chalk, sea salt and flint. 14.2 percent alcohol. A beautifully-wrought sauvignon blanc for drinking through 2018 to 2020. Production was 160 cases. Exceptional. About $35.

A sample for review.

Olema_PN (1)
If you can find a well-made, delicious and authentic Sonoma County pinot noir for $20, clasp it to thy bosom with gratitude and fervor. Such a one -tah-dah! — is the Olema Pinot Noir 2014, from Sonoma County but with generous contribution s from the more specific and pinot-friendly AVAs of Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. Olema is the second, less expensive label of Amici Cellars. The wine aged 12 months in French oak, 35 percent new barrels. The color is a lovely, transparent medium ruby hue with a delicate, almost invisible rim; this is a clean and fresh pinot noir that offers an essential loamy underpinning as support for notes of rhubarb and sassafras, red cherries and smoky plums and just a hint of shy forest flowers. On the palate, the Olema Pinot Noir 2014 feels warm, spicy and inviting, dry, to be sure, but juicy with red and black fruit flavors highlighted by new leather, cloves and black pepper. The wine builds subtle layers in the glass, so after a few minutes, you notice elements of briers and brambles and graphite, all fixed in place by bright acidity and nuanced, slightly dusty minerality. 14.2 percent. A truly engaging pinot noir for drinking through 2018 with roasted chicken or coq au vin, smoked turkey, game birds and grilled leg of lamb. Excellent. About $20, representing Good Value.

A sample for review.

A rosé wine can be made in one of three ways. First, mix red and white wine, just a touch of red. Voila, it’s pink! Generally, this method is avoided in making still rosés, and in fact is primarily used in the production of brut rosé Champagne and sparkling wines. Second, and endless crushmost common, is maceration, in which the skins of red grapes macerate with the juice for a brief period, usually two to 20 hours, and then the juice is removed from the vats when the desired lightness or depth of hue and flavor is reached. (The color of red wine, whether medium ruby or motor-oil purple, derives from the skins; grape juice itself has no or little color.) Third is saignée, a French term meaning “to bleed.” The process involves siphoning or “bleeding off” some of the juice from the macerating tanks before it becomes too dark, a step that helps concentrate the “real” wine as well as produce a rosé. The rosé wine considered today was made by maceration of grapes grown especially for this wine, not as an after-thought or coincidental product bled off from a more important wine. The Inman Family “Endless Crush” Rosé of Pinot Noir 2016, Russian River Valley, was made from organic grapes grown in the winery’s Olivet Grange vineyard and picked in August last year. After a few months in stainless steel tanks, the wine was bottled on December 7, making it all of about six months old. The color is very pale petal pink; oh, this is a delicate and ethereal wreathing of strawberries, red currants and watermelon that opens to a fine web of honeysuckle and lilac, orange rind and grapefruit, all encompassed by a slightly earthy undertone of damp and slightly dusty tiles and river stones. Tensile strength emerges with the wine’s bright, lip-smacking acidity and mouth-watering juiciness and the contrast between its crisp nature and an almost lush texture. 11.9 percent alcohol. Drink through the end of 2017. Production was 672 cases, and it goes fast. A superior rosé wine that feels like a kiss from Spring and a caress from Summer. Exceptional. About $35.

A sample for review.

The limited edition “Miljenko’s Selections” wines from Grgich Hills Estate are named for the winery’s co-founder and longtime winemaker 2014-ESS-FRONT-WITHOUT-ALCMiljenko “Mike” Grgich, and the label is a fitting tribute to this Napa Valley pioneer. (Present winemaker is Ivo Jeramaz.) Our Wine of the Day is the superb Grgich Hills Miljenko’s Selection Essence Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Napa Valley, a sauvignon blanc of riveting purity and intensity. The wine fermented with natural yeasts and aged nine months in large oak casks, so any wood influence is subtle, almost subliminal. The color is pale straw-gold; aromas of lime peel, lemongrass and gooseberry are heightened by notes of jasmine and lilac and a kind of sunny, leafy fig suggestion. The texture is both soft and talc-like and boldly crisp with assertive acidity; flavors take on a wisp of stone-fruit rounded by a tangerine edge, all finishing with grapefruit rind, seashell and limestone scintillation. The energy and elegance of this sauvignon blanc cannot be overstated, nor can its poignant, piercing minerality or its lovely sense of presence; it is one of the most sheerly beautiful examples of the grape I have encountered. 13.5 percent alcohol. Production was 646 cases. Drink now through 20 to ’22. Exceptional. About $55.

A sample for review. The label image is one vintage behind; 2015 has not made it onto the winery’s website.

Valentine’s, the most fraught day of the year, when everybody in America is going to be as romantic as hell or die trying, and what’s more loveromantic than that? In case you — meaning any person of whatever gender fluidity, age, religion, political stance, food preference or IQ — forgot to lay in a bottle of Champagne or sparkling wine, here is a brief roster of examples, all Brut Rosés, that register at various levels of delectability on the palate and dent-free on the pocketbook; in other words, delicious and not too expensive. (I understand that “expensive” is a relative concept.) Though actual Champagne is not included here, that is, bubbly made exclusively in the Champagne region of France, these models are produced in the famed “Champagne method” of second fermentation in the bottle, the same bottle it will be sold in, after some length of time resting on the lees in said bottle before being finished with the cork and wire. The process is a tad more complicated, of course, but I’m into simplification today so I can get a bottle of sparkling wine into your hands before it’s too late. Two of these selections are from France — Loire Valley and Burgundy — and two from California — Russian River and Napa-Carneros. So, drink up, have fun, dance a step or two and give him or her or him/her a smooch for me.

Credit: Leslie Barron, Big Love, acrylic and mixed media on panel, 24 by 48 inches. Courtesy of L Ross Gallery, Memphis, Tennessee.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
De Chanceny Brut Rosé nv, Crémant de Loire, is a product of Alliance Loire, a cooperative founded in 2002 to take advantage of vineyard 17385--de-chanceny-cremant-de-loire-rose-brut-label-1426983098connections that range from Muscadet in the west to the appellations of Touraine in the center. This is 100 percent cabernet franc, aged on the lees at least 12 months. The color is an attractive pale copper-salmon hue, enlivened by a steady stream of tiny bubbles. Aromas of strawberry and raspberry are touched with the slight astringency of mulberry, fleshed out by orange zest and a hint of cloves. This Crémant de Loire is dry, crisp and lively, animated by pert acidity and a deft limestone edge. 12.5 percent alcohol. Truly charming. Very Good+. I paid $15 locally, but prices around the country vary from about $13 to $19; don’t pay that much, My Readers.

Signature Imports, Mansfield, Mass.
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
0_0_prod_desktop
Founded in 1831, Domaine Albert Bichot produces Burgundy wines that encompass the complete geographical and hierarchical aspects of the region. Today, however, we look not at any of the domaine’s Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines but at its quite satisfying non-vintage Albert Bichot Brut Rosé Crémant de Bourgogne, composed of chardonnay, pinot noir and gamay grapes. The color is pale copper-pink, the essential bubbles active and energetic. Notes of blood orange, cloves, tangerine and red cherry are given a serious touch by an element of limestone minerality. It’s quite dry but displays lovely bones and a deceptive quality of tensile strength. 12 percent alcohol. Excellent. About $25.

European Wine Imports, Cleveland, Ohio. A sample for review.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
BrutRoseProduct220x680
The J Vineyard Brut Rosé nv, Russian River Valley, is a blend of 66 percent pinot noir, 33 percent chardonnay and 1 percent pinot meunier; it aged two years en tirage, that is, on the lees in the bottle. This is all flushes, blushes and nuances, from its very pale copper-sunset hue, to its slightly fleshy, subtly ripe notes of orange zest, raspberry and lemon rind touched with almond skin, to its steely, chiseled structure. The bubbles, however, are nothing discrete, being a dynamic upward surge like a fountain. This sparkling wine is elegant and fine-boned, finishing with an intriguing hint of grapefruit bitterness. 12.5 percent alcohol. Excellent. About $45.

A sample for review.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
bub_brut_rose
The Frank Family Vineyard Brut Rosé 2012, Napa Valley-Carneros, a blend of 76 percent pinot noir and 24 percent chardonnay, offers a pale copper hue flushed with rose-petal pink; the tiny bubbles teem like a glinting tempest in the glass. This is a focused and intense sparkling wine that displays burnished notes of blood orange and tangerine, red raspberries and currants wrapped in a package of lightly toasted brioche and limestone steeliness, managing to be both generous and austere. Lip-smacking acidity and effervescence and scintillating minerality keep it appealing and dynamic, while innate elegance makes it lithe and attractive. 12 percent alcohol. Production was 500 cases. Drink through 2019 to ’21. Excellent. About $55.

A sample for review.
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

It’s interesting that these two gewurztraminer wines, made in regions thousands of miles and a hemisphere apart, received such similar treatment in the winery, that is to say, mostly stainless steel with a judicious amount of wood. Drink these with charcuterie, pork chops smothered in apples and white wine, seafood soups and stews, grilled mussels, moderately spicy Southeast Asian cuisine.

These wines were samples for review.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
First, the Gundlach Bundschu Estate Vineyard Gewurztraminer 2014, Sonoma Coast, produced from vineyards where the vines are 10 years old and 2014-GBW-gewurztraminer-f40 years old, fermented and aged in 90 percent stainless steel tanks and 10 percent neutral French oak barrels; in addition, and even more interesting, 15 percent of the grapes were frozen before being pressed. What’s the result of this process? A clean, fresh and spare gewurztraminer that displays a very pale straw-gold hue and arresting aromas of lime peel and grapefruit, lychee, gardenia and jasmine, with following hints of green tea and lemongrass and an overall sheen of petrol and limestone. It’s pretty heady stuff, all right. On the palate, the wine is pithy, crisp with essential acidity, and lively with a kind of flinty nervosity, these elements providing a keen edge to the lovely, ripe, talc-like stone-fruit and citrus flavors, culminating in a finish flush with grapefruit bitterness. 14.3 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2020 or ’22, as time should burnish this to a state of pure golden minerality. Excellent. About $22.50.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
lawson gewuart
Grapes for the Lawson’s Dry Hills Gewurztraminer 2014, Marlborough, New Zealand, derive from vineyards planted in 1981. The regimen is six months in 80 hectoliter tanks — 2,113.37 gallons — and standard French barriques. This is a truly lovely wine, from its shimmer of pale gold hue to his intriguing scents of lychee and gardenia, grapefruit and mango, with notes of petrol and honeysuckle, to its exquisite tension among spicy flavors of figs, quince and ginger; scintillating limestone minerality; and bright acidity that cuts a furrow on the palate. The essence here is a briery, loamy, heather and woodsy character under succulent yellow fruit, leading to a typical stony finish freighted with grapefruit rind bitterness. 14 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2020 to ’22. Excellent. About $19.

Imported by The Country Vintner, Ashland, Va., a division of Winebow Inc.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

You may think I’m wayward and quixotic for recommending a rosé wine on February 9, a day of storms, wind, snow and ice for much of the nation, but yesterday I drank a glass (or two) of this wine while sitting on the back porch, wearing shorts and a t-shirt. And then the toad hollowtemperature dropped precipitously, so we had a very cold night, a chilly but sunny today, and tomorrow we’re back in the 70s. Who can live with this whiplash approach to mid-Winter? The wine is the Toad Hollow Dry Rosé of Pinot Noir 2016, designated Sonoma County, though the grapes derived from the marine climate of Carneros. The wine’s name — “Dry Rosé” — indicates that at one time and perhaps even now American consumers considered rosé wines sweet, though the great majority of them are bone-dry. While made completely from pinot noir grapes — no grenache, cinsault, counoise, no syrah or mourvèdre — this rosé thoroughly partakes of the spirit of its counterparts in Provence. The color is an entrancing pale onion skin hue — what used to be called “eye of the partridge” — and the aromas of orange zest, peach and strawberry are subtle and delicate, bolstered by a hint of wet stones and dried thyme; a few moments in the glass bring in notes of watermelon and lilac. On the palate, this charming rosé wine is a little gingery, featuring peach and raspberry flavors enlivened by crisp acidity and a burgeoning limestone and flint element. “Charming,” yes, but quite spare, slightly honed and chiseled, nothing gushing or abundant; I call it classic and graceful. 11.5 percent alcohol. Now through the end of 2017. Very Good+. About $15, representing Real Value.

A sample for review.

Jackson Family Wines acquired Siduri Wines, the cult producer of single-vineyard pinot noirs, in January 2015. Smart purchase for a company ECM316759heavily into pinpointing exclusive wineries and producers of pinot noir in California and Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Founder Adam Lee remains as winemaker. The wine considered today, however, is not a single-vineyard effort but a wine that seeks to be the embodiment of Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley AVA, a noted powerhouse of pinot noir and chardonnay wines. The Siduri Pinot Noir 2015, Russian River Valley, derives from seven vineyards throughout the diverse landscape and micro-climates of Russian River Valley and a variety of clones. This one is for fans of big-hearted pinot noirs that wear their gushing fruity attributes and underpinnings on their sleeves. Not particularly my style — I prefer more nuance — but it’s obviously so well-made that I can’t resist offering it as another Wine of the Day. The color is a striking deep ruby-purple with a glowing violet-magenta rim; it’s a dark and intense pinot noir that features scents and flavors of smoked and macerated black and red cherries and currants touched with iodine and iron and notes of rhubarb, allspice, sandalwood and sassafras. Silky smooth is the texture, running like satin ribbons over the palate, while bright acidity lends liveliness and firm, graphite-tinged tannins give grit and verve. Loam and leather come up, as well as some foresty asperity in the depths, more smoke and a blithe hint of wild cherry. 14.3 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2020 or ’22 with roasted chicken or game birds, pork tenderloin or veal. Excellent. About $35.

A sample for review.

To honor the Year of the Rooster, to be celebrated on January 28 at Chinese New Year’s, Joy Sterling of Iron Horse Vineyard crafted a iron horsespecial, limited production sparkling wine that bears a vivid red and gold label you can’t miss. The Iron Horse Chinese Cuvée 2012, Green Valley of Russian River Valley — that’s the AVA — is a blend of 76 percent pinot noir and 24 percent chardonnay, aged en tirage (on the lees in the bottle) for four years. The color is pale straw-gold, energized by a swirling tempest of tiny glinting bubbles; I mean, it’s hypnotic. Aromas of spiced pears, pound cake and baked apples unfurl to notes of lemon balm and lemongrass, heather and damp hay and a hint of something uniquely tropical, star-fruit, perhaps, or guava, just a bell-tone. These elements — all nuances; nothing obvious — in turn are layered over limestone and shale minerality of the profoundest order, so on the palate this sparkling wine is lithe, chiseled and honed, quite dry of course, and with a finish notable for elegance and austerity, all twined with utmost fine-boned delicacy. 13.5 percent alcohol. One of my favorite sparkling wines of the past two months of tasting brigades of bottles. Drink now through 2020 to ’22. Production was 300 cases. Excellent. About $65.

A sample for review.

So, My Readers, here is my annual list of the Great Wine Bargains from the previous year, except that, instead of offering you 25 examples, as I usually do, I provide 30, because there are so many excellent inexpensive wines available. The prices here range from $11 to $20. and while I realize that for some people even $18 to $20 stretches what they want to pay for a bottle of wine, I believe that you will find something on this roster fit for most every taste and pocket book. This is a gratifyingly diverse group of wines, and for the first time I welcome products from Brazil, Greece and Hungary to the line-up. Many of these examples are wines to buy by the case and keep around for a year for drinking daily, though, honestly, the point of most of these wines is not to make old bones. The primary theme is: Drink Up and Enjoy. Sensibly, of course, and in moderation.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
aia
Aia Vecchia Vermentino 2015, Toscana Maremma, Italy. Very Good+. About $12.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________
alpha
Alpha Estate Turtles Vineyard Malagouzia 2015, Florina, Macedonia, Greece. 100 percent malagouzia grapes. Excellent. About $18.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
ascevi-cerou-friulano-label
Ascevi Luwa Ronco Superiore Ceròu 2014, Friuli Isonza, Italy. 100% tocai friulano grapes. Production was 500 cases. Excellent. About $18.
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
furmint
Béres Tokaji Furmint 2014, Szaraz, Hungary. 100 percent furmint grapes. Excellent. About $19.

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
15_VinGris_Domestic_750
Bonny Doon Vineyard Vin Gris de Cigare 2015, Central Coast. 44 percent grenache grapes, 20 percent grenache blanc, 13 carignane, 10 mourvèdre, 7 cinsaut and 6 roussanne. Excellent. About $18.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
colome-torrontes
Colomé Torrontés 2015, Calchaqui Valley, Salta, Argentina. Excellent. About $15.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
grf140_nv_lbl
Garofoli Serra del Conte 2014, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico, Italy. Excellent. About $11.

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
duret
Domaine Pierre Duret Quincy 2014, Loire Valley, France. 100 percent sauvignon blanc. Excellent. About $14.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
duas
Esporão Duas Castas 2014, Alentejano, Portugal. 60 percent arinto grapes and 40 percent gouveio, Excellent. About $14.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
csm_pinot_grigio_2005_riserva_7895065a86
Marco Felluga “Mongris” Pinot Grigio 2015, Collio, Italy. Excellent. About $18.
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
illahe
Illahe Viognier 2015, Willamette Valley, Oregon. Excellent. About $17.

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
beaujolais_village_btl_535px
Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages 2014. Excellent. About $14.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
2014_lff_tempranillo
Lee Family Farm Temprnillo 2014, Arroyo Seco, Monterey County. 53 cases produced. Excellent. About $20.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
lidio
Lidio Carraro Agnus Tannat 2014, Serra Guacha, Brazil. Very Good+. About $12.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
msi_rose_dei_masi_btl
Masi Rosa dei Masi 2015, Rosato della Venezia, Italy. 100 percent refosco grapes. Excellent. About $15.

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
gemma-rose
Masciarelle Villa Gemma 2015, Cerasuola d’Abruzzo Rose, Italy. 100 percent montepulciano d’Aruzzo grapes. Excellent. About $15.

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
francois-montand-brut
Francois Montand Brut Blanc de Blancs nv, Jura, France. Very Good+. About $14.
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
morgan_label_albarino_2015_front-1
Morgan Albarino 2015, Monterey County. 375 cases. Excellent. About $18.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
m-cb
M de Mulonnière Chenin Blanc 2015, Anjou, Loire Valley, France. Excellent. About $15.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
forster
Weingut Eugen Müller Forster Mariengarten Riesling Kabinett 2013, Pfalz, Germany. Excellent. About $19.

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
armador-sauvignon-blanc-2013-bottle
Odfjell Vineyards Armador Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Casablanca Valley, Chile. Excellent. About $14.

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
pedroncelli
Pedroncelli Winery Dry Rosé of Zinfandel 2015, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County. Excellent. About $12,

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
puyanche-blanc-sec
Chateau Puyanché 2014, Francs Cote de Bordeaux Blanc. 75% sauvignon blanc, 25% semillon. Excellent. About $15.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
rc-temp-2013-ft
Real Compania de Vinos Tempranillo 2012, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla, Spain. Very Good+. About $12.
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
selvapiana
Selvapiana Chianti Rufina 2013, Toscana, Italy. 95 percent sangiovese grapes with five percent canaiolo, colorino and malvasia nera. Excellent. About $17.
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
schneider
Georg Albrecht Schneider Niersteiner Paterberg Riesling Kabinett 2013, Rheinhessen, Germany. Excellent. About $15.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
serres-rioja
Carlos Serres Crianza 1012, Rioja, Spain. 85 percent tempranillo, 15 percent garnacha. Very Good+. About $12.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
traminpinotgrigionvlabel_1013-1
Cantina Tramin Pinot Grigio 2015, Sudtirol-Alto Adige, Italy. Excellent. About $16.

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
cava
Vilarnau Brut Reserve Cava, nv. Traditional blend of 50 percent macabeo grapes, 35 percent parellada and 15 percent xarel-lo. Very Good+. About $13.
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
vr-label-13-red4_front
Vina Robles Red4 2013, Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County. 41 percent petite sirah, 40 percent syrah, 10 percent mourvedre, 9 percent grenache. Excellent. About $17.
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

« Previous PageNext Page »