Thu 9 Oct 2014
Today’s post continues my investigation into the character and evolution of cabernet sauvignon wines produced in Napa Valley. The first post in this series provided an introduction and reviews of six examples. Now I look at the current-release cabernet-based wines of Newton Vineyard.
The winery was founded by Peter and Su Hua Newton on Spring Mountain in 1979, two years after Peter Newton sold his share in Sterling Vineyards to Coca-Cola. (That move on Coke’s part didn’t work out; the company sold Sterling to Seagram’s, and it’s now owned by Diageo.) Newton was British, a horticulturalist and garden designer. The Newtons bought 650 acres, basically a square mile, on the mountain, west of the town of St. Helena, and planted vines on about 60 acres of steeply terraced sites. The winery, a grandiose building surrounded by extensive formal gardens, focuses on several levels of cabernet or cabernet-based wines, as well as merlot and chardonnay. Vineyard area is 120 acres, ranging from 500 to 1,600 feet above sea level, divided into 112 blocks and cultivated for different soil characteristics. LVMH acquired a majority interest in Newton Vineyard in 2001; the winery is now part of the luxury goods company’s Estates and Wines Collection. Peter Newton died in 2008, at the age of 81.
The cabernet sauvignon wines produced by Newton are powerful and dynamic yet restrained when it comes to ripeness, alcohol content and oak regimen, almost managing to be elegant. The first two wines, the Claret 2011 and the Cabernet 2011, derive from a multitude of vineyards that range from the north to the south of Napa Valley; they display Napa County designations. The Unfiltered Cabernet 2011 and The Puzzle 2010 are made from estate blocks on Spring Mountain and in particular offer a deep earthy mineral-laced character. These are not cheap wines, and in fact I would quibble at the hyperbolic prices — the Claret should be about $20 instead of $28, but no one asked me — still, Newton’s The Puzzle, even at $100, is one of Napa Valley essential flagship wines. Winemaker at Newton is Chris Millard.
These wines were samples for review. Image from tripadvisor.com.
Newton Claret 2011, Napa County. The blend here is 54 percent cabernet sauvignon, 28 percent merlot, 10 petit verdot, 4 syrah, 3 cabernet franc and 1 percent malbec, a sort of Bordeaux red blend with a dollop of syrah; the wine aged 20 months in French oak, 50 percent new barrels. The color is dark ruby with a mulberry rim, and as far as being shaped in the Bordeaux model, the wine offers a rather St.-Julien-like bouquet of black currants and black cherries permeated by notes of black olives, rosemary and walnuts, tobacco leaf and cigarette paper. It’s smooth and lithe on the palate, a beautifully integrated package of dark, lightly spiced black fruit, vibrant acidity, slightly dusty tannins and supple oak. Exciting, racy, demanding? No, but very satisfying, delicious and well-structured. 14 percent alcohol. Very Good+. About $28.
Newton Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Napa County. This is 100 percent cabernet sauvignon, aged 12 months in French oak, percentage of new barrels not specified. The color is deep ruby with a tinge of magenta; the overall impression is of lovely weight, heft and balance, beginning with aromas of ripe black currants and raspberries mixed with dried fruit, potpourri and lavender and a whole snootful of exotic spices; this is, however, a cool, clean graphite-laden cabernet, freighted with lithic influence and etched with granite (and a note or two of violets and licorice). Flavors of black currants and cherries, with touches of blueberry and plum, are highlighted by resolute acidity and fairly prominent tannins that are dense without being ponderous. The slightly austere finish is packed with spice and minerals. 14 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2019 or ’20. Excellent. About $30.
Newton Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Napa Valley. There’s a bit of a blend here, with three percent petit verdot grapes, all derived from Newton’s Spring Mountain estate vineyards; the wine aged 22 months in French oak barrels, 50 percent new. The color is dark ruby, with a hint of purple; the emphasis is on structure, so while the bouquet fairly seethes with ripe, spicy black currants and cassis, those elements are circumscribed by graphite, iron and iodine; fine-grained velvety tannins and dense, slightly creamy oak frame black fruit flavors enhanced by tense acidity. A great deal of power and energy don’t detract from the essential balance and integration of this wine, though it requires a bit of aging to achieve real poise. 14.5 percent alcohol. Try from 2016 through 2022 to ’25. Excellent. About $60.
Newton “The Puzzle” 2010, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley. This proprietary wine is a blend of 60 percent cabernet sauvignon grapes, 18 percent each cabernet franc and petit verdot and 4 percent malbec. Because it contains less than 75 percent cabernet sauvignon, it cannot state the majority grape on the label. The Puzzle 2010 aged 22 months in 100 percent new French oak barrels. The color is dark, dense ruby-purple; the wine embodies that lovely and gratifying paradox of being intense and concentrated yet generous and expansive, so while it feels ferrous, sanguinary and feral (though Olympian in its brooding character), it also displays an innate delicacy and elegance of balance and harmony, all effects marshaled under the tempering influence of plangent acidity and dusty, graphite-packed tannins. 14.5 percent alcohol. Try from 2015 or ’16 through 2025 to ’30. Exceptional. About $100.