Tue 29 Sep 2015
I appreciated the style of this pinor noir wine from Australia’s Adelaide Hills appellation. In contrast to pinot noirs from various regions of California and Oregon, which can be immodestly plush, luxuriously spicy and thoroughly oaked to a fare-thee-well — no, not every one all the time — the Wakefield Pinot Noir 2014 offers a spare, lean and lithe interpretation of the grape that satisfies the minimalist in me. The color is medium ruby; initially aromas of mint, tobacco and slightly resinous rosemary dominate the bouquet, followed by delicately spiced and macerated black and red currants and cherries that open to hints of cranberry and pomegranate. The wine aged in one-and two-year-old French hogshead barrels, a size generally (or sort of) agreed upon to equal about 63 U.S. gallons, slightly larger than the standard 59-gallon barrique in Bordeaux. (That’s your Fact of the Day.) The briery-brambly-underbrush elements come up quickly, and acid plows a furrow on the palate, all making for a pinot noir of essential liveliness and gradually burgeoning earthy dimension that doesn’t neglect pert currant and cranberry flavors. The texture is satiny and supple without being opulent or blatant, and the finish concludes on a tart, chiseled, minerally note. 14.4 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2016 into 2017. very Good+. About $17, representing True Value.
Imported by AW Direct, Novato, Calif. A sample for review.