I met Michael and Anne Dashe in San Francisco, a few weeks ago, at the ZAP conference — Zinfandel Advocates and Producers — cards were exchanged, and they sent me a couple of samples. Their Dashe Cellars winery does not occupy a facility on a vine-covered hillside in Napa Valley or Sonoma County, where sheep might graze and rabbits cavort, but a warehouse in Oakland. Mike Dashe, the winemaker and co-owner with Anne — she’s originally from a town on the coast of Brittany — makes wine from selected vineyards over which he exerts final control over farming techniques and harvesting practices. Our Wine of the Day is the Dashe Cellars Les Enfants Terribles Heart Arrow Ranch Zinfandel 2016, from a new AVA, Eagle Peak, in Mendocino County. The vineyard is certified organic and biodynamic. The wine is made, at least partially, by the method of carbonic maceration, a process in which a portion of whole grape clusters is placed in a large barrel or tank and then, as in this case, the rest of the uncrushed grapes are piled on top. Sealed under a blanket of carbon dioxide, the grapes begin to produce fermentation inside themselves and releasing juice as the weight of the grapes on top crush the grapes below. The chemical transformations involved and the possible variations are far more complicated than this simple — or simplistic — explanation implies, but the result, anyway, is a fresh, bright red wine. You can understand why the process is popular in Beaujolais. Les Enfants Terribles 2016 is certainly bright and fresh, with its seductive, spice-infused black raspberry and cherry scents and flavors, but there’s a glittering edge of graphite, too, and dusty, fine-grained tannins for a structure both succulent and lithe. Five to six months in 900-gallon oak Burgundian barrels give this highly drinkable wine shape and firmness, all these elements contributing to a real sense of grip and traction on the palate. From mid-range back, the wine gains woodsy, raspy qualities of raspberry leaf and briers, with the finish a supple wreathing of fruit, spice, acid, tannin and a subtle mineral-floral character. 13.8 percent alcohol. Drink now through 2020 or ’21. Lovely, with a serious aspect. Production was 491 cases. Excellent. About $28.

The label image is one vintage behind.