The Saarstein Riesling 2013, Mosel, falls into the Qualit├Ątswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete (QbA) category of German wines, meaning “quality wine from a specified region,” in this case, the Mosel, as indicated on the label. The grapes for this wine derive from younger vines, and at this level, the names of vineyards and villages are not listed. And yet what a shining, golden riesling this example is, drinking beautifully at about four years old and certainly with several years of pleasure left to impart. The color is pale, shimmering light gold; aromas of ripe peaches, pears and quince are infused with a strain of apricot nectar, opening to notes of lychee, jasmine and honeysuckle. Slightly honeyed stone-fruit flavors are carried by a texture that’s half lush, half lithe, and brightly animated by brisk acidity; modestly sweet and juicy on the entry, the wine slips into dry mode from mid-palate back through a finish dominated by flinty minerality and a touch of bracing salinity. 9.5 percent alcohol. Now through 2019 to ’21. We happily drank this bottle with swordfish marinated in lime juice, soy sauce and olive oil with a minced ginger-garlic rub, seared in a cast-iron skillet. Excellent. About $16, representing Fine Value.

Imported by Valckenberg International, Tulsa, Okla. A sample for review.